Oil drain bolt leak
#1
Thread Starter
Oil drain bolt leak
Yesterday I changed my oil and filter. Only problem was, after removing the drain bolt I couldn't get the old crush washer off it. After fiddling for 10 minutes or so, I thought "sod it I'll just reuse it".
This morning I realised there was a slow drip coming from it. I thought I'd better do it properly and did it all again (helping Mobil's profits considerably) and this time used a bit more brute force on the washer until I got it off and used a fresh one.
Installed again, torqued to 30lb ft ish, but it's still leaking. It's a slow drip: maybe once every 30 seconds.
Any thoughts? I hope I haven't damaged the bolt in any way, but with the crush washer as long as it's tight enough it shouldn't leak.
This morning I realised there was a slow drip coming from it. I thought I'd better do it properly and did it all again (helping Mobil's profits considerably) and this time used a bit more brute force on the washer until I got it off and used a fresh one.
Installed again, torqued to 30lb ft ish, but it's still leaking. It's a slow drip: maybe once every 30 seconds.
Any thoughts? I hope I haven't damaged the bolt in any way, but with the crush washer as long as it's tight enough it shouldn't leak.
#2
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Not knowing too much about oil changes as you can probably tell from some of my previous posts on the subject. Does the thread look ok on the bolt? If the thread is damaged at all this could be causing the leak.
Halfrauds sell new oil bolts but I dont know if they do one for the S2000, could be worth a try.
Also if you catch the oil in a clean container I assume is ok to use the same oil to refill. I cant see you having a problem with this as long as the container is 100% clean and the oil doesnt get contaminated in the time it takes for you to refill the car again.
Halfrauds sell new oil bolts but I dont know if they do one for the S2000, could be worth a try.
Also if you catch the oil in a clean container I assume is ok to use the same oil to refill. I cant see you having a problem with this as long as the container is 100% clean and the oil doesnt get contaminated in the time it takes for you to refill the car again.
#3
Thread Starter
It's possible I'd damaged the thread slightly getting the old washer off. Also I'm slightly concerned I may have over tightened it last time - it took more force than I was expecting.
And I've realised that the washer is sided, and I didn't pay any attention to that. So maybe I've got it on the wrong way round.
I should have reused the oil, but it was going into a dirty container so I didn't want to. But I will do next time as it's getting expensive.
And I've realised that the washer is sided, and I didn't pay any attention to that. So maybe I've got it on the wrong way round.
I should have reused the oil, but it was going into a dirty container so I didn't want to. But I will do next time as it's getting expensive.
#4
Won't matter if you mullered the threads a bit, the sealing is done between the faces and not the threads, hence the washer.
Try annealing the washer before fitting. To anneal an old (or new) copper washer, heat over a blowlamp or gas stove until cherry red and plop it into a cup of cold water. It will then be very soft and seal nicely.
Other option is you seriously over tightened it and split the sump, or cross threaded it and its in at an angle, both velly velly blad! Can be fixed with a helicoil insert however.
Some washers are sided, to fit around the ridge in the sump pan or a raised face on the bolt, should be apparent to you next time.
Just a suggestion, if it feels too tight and it's not right, its wrong. Stop!
Try annealing the washer before fitting. To anneal an old (or new) copper washer, heat over a blowlamp or gas stove until cherry red and plop it into a cup of cold water. It will then be very soft and seal nicely.
Other option is you seriously over tightened it and split the sump, or cross threaded it and its in at an angle, both velly velly blad! Can be fixed with a helicoil insert however.
Some washers are sided, to fit around the ridge in the sump pan or a raised face on the bolt, should be apparent to you next time.
Just a suggestion, if it feels too tight and it's not right, its wrong. Stop!
#6
Thread Starter
Stopped off at Honda to buy two new washers this morning, and checked the washers aren't sided (they don't appear to be). That's what it said somewhere on this site.
I agree if the thread is good enough to torque up it should seal on the washer. So some minor damage to the thread shouldn't make any difference.
I'll try again with a new washer. If that doesn't do it, then I guess I'll try a new bolt. And if it still leaks it might be time for that baffled sump I was thinking of getting.
I agree if the thread is good enough to torque up it should seal on the washer. So some minor damage to the thread shouldn't make any difference.
I'll try again with a new washer. If that doesn't do it, then I guess I'll try a new bolt. And if it still leaks it might be time for that baffled sump I was thinking of getting.
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#8
If it still leaks with a new washer you could always try some liquid gasket on the threads of the bolt. Would certainly work until next time you change the oil. Depends on the reason why its leaking though.
Are you sure there's no residue of the previous crush washer on the sealing faces of the sump and the plug?
Are you sure there's no residue of the previous crush washer on the sealing faces of the sump and the plug?
#10
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by lower,Aug 28 2007, 12:17 PM
If it still leaks with a new washer you could always try some liquid gasket on the threads of the bolt. Would certainly work until next time you change the oil. Depends on the reason why its leaking though.
Are you sure there's no residue of the previous crush washer on the sealing faces of the sump and the plug?