It only looks if it is lean or rich nothing else.

There certainly isn't any special wiring used in the OEM Toyota stuff I used to work with

 

It looks at a full scale 0-1 v range though. Not just a bit above 0 and a bit below 1?

 

iv'e never been able to solder lambda wires, as MB says it just wont happen

but i'm always wary of non genuine parts like these as i have had no end of problems fitting after market electrical parts. they just dont seem to work the same even when they test out ok


but the lambda has to switch voltage very quickly from 0 up to 1 volt (should be too quick for most volt meters) if you can read the voltage rising and dropping then it's probably too slow



HTH

 

It should switch roughly once per second when in closed loop so a decent meter will pick up the signal fine although a scope can be handy for taking a more detailed look. A conventional sensor (whether 1v or 5v, 1,3 or 4 wire) does only indicate rich or weak, a wideband sensor will show how rich or weak but you can't test them in the same way, they generally have 5 wires.

 

I too have used a Fluke to see the signal move.

Had a wideband when I was fitting the blower...

 

I did manage to solder the 4 wire item on my Civic, but it wasn't really preferable to it. Twisted the 2 ends of wire together tight, and then used the solder as a mechanical lock. Not technically a correct thing to do, but it wasn't going anywhere and worked great

 

A lambda should switch at 3hz.

 

Where does frequency come into it? All the ECU cares about is voltage.

 

yes it does but if its slow when you hold the throttle slightly open, you get surge

the revs will rise and fall as the mixture changes slowly from lean to rich and visa versa

it has to be a fast change

3hz sound about right to me

 

It looks at the switching between rich and lean, closed loop simple aims for stoichiometric, slightly rich and slightly lean of stoich is tiny difference in voltage and hence the switching voltage is what's used to tweak.

Imagine barry chuckles to me to you. eventually you get it about right, you need enough ossicilations for accurate fuel control.

Anything less than 3hz suggests the sensor is fecked and needs replacing, the ECU will detect this and throw up a CEL.

It can't just look at the raw voltage as it would have to be incredible accurate and also the voltage will change related to temperature.