lovegroova

You can use all sorts of things to do this (chisel, long screwdriver). It's probably best to use a proper windback tool, however. Something like this will do the trick http://www.screwfix....piece-set/12572

Or really cheap here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0045KBN7...8954JDYC2ZWDVM

Gaffa

Like lovegroover said you can get by without a special tool, I did manage to wind mine back in,
but if the pistons are seized or tight at all, then the proper tool makes it much easier

I have now bought a universal one from ebay
http://www.ebay.co.u...-/171760343307?

which makes it all so easy

you'd be welcome to borrow it but you're a little far way

noodels

Never had a seized handbrake.
perhaps seizures due to over stretched fulcrum angle,<so needing to pull handbrake up to far>and leaving it on,
that"s just relying with self adjustment mechanisms only.
Some handbrakes will not reach desired efficiency on a testing at MOT without nipple removal and adjusted by hand.

bartonbeau

Thanks for the replies and knowledge guys. Before there was the talk of not removing the nipple, I ground mine off (ow!! ) at 8.30 this morning before work. I've never fitted rear pads on the S but now the reason you need the cross grooves on the piston at 12 to 6 o'clock and 9 to 3 (i.e. +) makes sense. If I've knackered the self adjustment of the handbrake I'll simply buy a new set of pads (BTW mine are Honda oem) and lesson learnt. I must admit the handbrake is now higher but it is holding the car.

I'll see how it goes but by heck the brakes are great now! Thanks for all the advice, its great to get to know how the car works. As for winding the piston in, I use an open ended spanner that fit nicely around one of the "quarters".

lovegroova

You can/should adjust the handbrake as part of the pad replacement procedure. There's a nut under the centre console to do it. Instructions in the Service Manual which is widely available via Google.

Gaffa

I would not worry about not having the nipple, my pads don't have one and the handbrake self adjusted fine, when you fit new pads you should pump the brake pedal hard with the handbrake off , then test the handbrake and check and adjust any slack in the cable.

BenRNBP

You can use a 3/8" socket ratchet to wind it back in - no special tools needed, see this vid @ 4m 58s for details http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taGPSU7mL6k&t=4m58s

Gaffa

Yes that works fine if they are not seized and you are winding them out, but going back in with the caliper still attached to the vehicle can be a bit a tricky
I did not have a problem with the S2k but my wife's civic was a pain I had to get a G clamp on them

RobAp1

The 3/8" ratchet will wind in as easily as it'll wind out if the piston/adjuster isn't seized. These pistons must be wound back in so how you got them compressed with a G clamp i'm not sure?!

Dembo

The proper tool turns and pushes at the same time, which is what you're meant to do. If you just turn it then you're pulling on the stud which is only held in by a circlip at the bottom. If you just push you're going to force it to turn, the reverse of what happens when it comes out, but you're pushing against a thread - like doing up a screw with a hammer.

Everybody should take one apart just to see how it works.