s2konroids

Well i had a bash at this today, it started raining so it stopped play thus i cant put the bumper on correctly in the rain .

The good 'initial' news, i say initial as i briefly tested it (I hope it works as I've gone past the point of no return), is the resistor tricks works.

One thing is the air pump works off coolant temperature and o2 feedback for engagement. I removed everything bar a few electrical connectors, the brackets, vac lines, vac tank, fuse, two pipes, air pump, air control solenoid, metal pipe and another bracket - i weighted it and it weights around 5KG's.

The bad news is... the pump wasn't actually faulty , i opened it and its in excellent condition and works when i rigged i up to a 12 volt source

Oh well, i saved 5KG's but should of been more thorough with fault finding, you live and learn. Anyone want to buy an airpump?

mattie170

Good news.

mr-pitts

So if you removed everything from under the bumper area,where did you put the resister?I thought you just removed the pump andput the resister between those wires and left the other bits in place.

I don't mean the secondary air pump and the pipe work but the bits under the bumper?

Izze-Engineering

Sticking relays are a common problem with the secondary air pump system. It's likely due to the location of the system (susceptible to water spray, thus corrosion).
If the relay sticks for an extended period of time, it can overheat the air pump. A sticking relay will throw a secondary air injection CEL.

There's a service bulletin on this.

I'm developing a non-USDM secondary air injection simulator that can be attached directly to the ECU, thus allowing you to remove everything secondary air injection related (i.e. pump, relay, vacuum system, hoses, fuse box, and wiring). This will be cleaner and more reliable than using a high-wattage resistor.

Service Bulletin:
[attachment=14169:2009-05-26_200503_411.pdf]


Caleb

Owen_1987

Will be very interested in this when it's on the market

s2konroids

Izze, would have gone for that but removed it all now and not wanting to go through the hassle again.

I can confirm the resistor trick works, you can remove everything bar the electrical connectors (relay etc etc) and air control valve.

The metal tube between the thick vacuum line is a PITA to remove you'll need to get under the car and still there's hardly any room and the bolts will be seized.

For boosted owners you will need to retain one thin vacuum line so route that to the back of the intake manifold and to your BOV/DV, the other vacuum line and vacuum tank can be removed so that only leaves connectors. THe air control valve you will need to retain but just use a small vacuum pipe and route it between both ports on the ACV affectively looping around. You will need a cap to block off so ports.

Oh and you wont be able to do this without removing the bumper for sure.

So now more CEL light for me

mattie170

I started my car yesterday and the CEL came on so plugged the solenoid valve back in left the car over night so it could cool down and today it worked and no CEL . I told you that metal pipe was a pain. No seized screws for me just lost a bit of skin off my knuckles.

s2konroids

Has anyone removed or frigged the air solenoid valve/vacuum valve its just two pin connecter.

Wondering if I can bridge connection or something? Of course on stock ecu using the resistor trick.

Does the air solenoid valve do much about part from engage/disengage on cold start up?

Cheers

mattie170

I just left mine connected and tied it up out of the way.

s2konroids

Do you think a resistor might work Matt?

On second thoughts it might vary and might have to fake the solenoid so might not work?