S2000 underseal
#1
S2000 underseal
hi guys
most of you i think are aware my car is currently looking like this :
whilst i have it up in the air and being a jap import i want to clean and underseal the underside, it all looks in great condition under there at the moment but wanna give it some protection
what best to use?
hammerite?
hammerite waxoyl?
how much will i need to do the complete underside
2.5 or 5 litres?
also are there any particular areas that i should make sure get a good coating?
thanks Rob
most of you i think are aware my car is currently looking like this :
whilst i have it up in the air and being a jap import i want to clean and underseal the underside, it all looks in great condition under there at the moment but wanna give it some protection
what best to use?
hammerite?
hammerite waxoyl?
how much will i need to do the complete underside
2.5 or 5 litres?
also are there any particular areas that i should make sure get a good coating?
thanks Rob
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: coventry, UK
Posts: 4,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
all arches i think; rears go aswell, although i guess thats alot down to rear end damage.
mine is suffering from tin worm
i've not used any of them with experience; waxoyl was simple though; warm tin up on hot water for 20mins, then spray it on (you can buy a spray kit that fixes straight onto the 5l tin; about £5-10).
mine is suffering from tin worm
i've not used any of them with experience; waxoyl was simple though; warm tin up on hot water for 20mins, then spray it on (you can buy a spray kit that fixes straight onto the 5l tin; about £5-10).
#4
if using the spray type cans do you have to mask off the bodypanels (sills, arches,wings.bumpers) to stop overspray or can you wipe it off before it sets if any gets on paintwork?
#5
Registered User
I used some thick black stuff
Top tip: if you can do it with an air line, mix some underseal with wd40 and spray into the rear of the sills by removing the grommet in the rear arches. This will protect the inside nicely
Did this to my S.
Top tip: if you can do it with an air line, mix some underseal with wd40 and spray into the rear of the sills by removing the grommet in the rear arches. This will protect the inside nicely
Did this to my S.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bangor, NI
Posts: 501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used tetra schuts, £3 a tin from my local factors and I used a ramp and airline.
We had it on a ramp last night again 4 months on and the underside is still mint considering the amount of salt we have had.
While I was at it I also masked off my sils and stone chip guarded the jacking point lip under the car as it always looked really untidy IMO
I undersealed both my Renault 5 turbos with waxoyl... Never again, it never drys and always remains tacky meaning working under the car in future is a disaster and all the crud of the day from the road tends to stick to it. The tetra schuts stays rubbery but dry!
We had it on a ramp last night again 4 months on and the underside is still mint considering the amount of salt we have had.
While I was at it I also masked off my sils and stone chip guarded the jacking point lip under the car as it always looked really untidy IMO
I undersealed both my Renault 5 turbos with waxoyl... Never again, it never drys and always remains tacky meaning working under the car in future is a disaster and all the crud of the day from the road tends to stick to it. The tetra schuts stays rubbery but dry!
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: coventry, UK
Posts: 4,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rob2.2,Feb 12 2011, 12:09 AM
if using the spray type cans do you have to mask off the bodypanels (sills, arches,wings.bumpers) to stop overspray or can you wipe it off before it sets if any gets on paintwork?
i have a feeling something like wd40 might get it off, or white spirit.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by OLLIeCRX,Feb 11 2011, 04:48 PM
I used tetra schuts, £3 a tin from my local factors and I used a ramp and airline.
We had it on a ramp last night again 4 months on and the underside is still mint considering the amount of salt we have had.
While I was at it I also masked off my sils and stone chip guarded the jacking point lip under the car as it always looked really untidy IMO
I undersealed both my Renault 5 turbos with waxoyl... Never again, it never drys and always remains tacky meaning working under the car in future is a disaster and all the crud of the day from the road tends to stick to it. The tetra schuts stays rubbery but dry!
We had it on a ramp last night again 4 months on and the underside is still mint considering the amount of salt we have had.
While I was at it I also masked off my sils and stone chip guarded the jacking point lip under the car as it always looked really untidy IMO
I undersealed both my Renault 5 turbos with waxoyl... Never again, it never drys and always remains tacky meaning working under the car in future is a disaster and all the crud of the day from the road tends to stick to it. The tetra schuts stays rubbery but dry!
I have 10l of Waxoyl in my garage waiting to go on my s - very pleased I read this.
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bangor, NI
Posts: 501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its definitely overpaintable.
I just took advice from my friend who does all my bodywork, and he just said if I used waxoyl he would refuse to paint the car and recommended the tetra brand stuff as they use it daily.
I also previously did my evo with gravitex which is used on buses
I just took advice from my friend who does all my bodywork, and he just said if I used waxoyl he would refuse to paint the car and recommended the tetra brand stuff as they use it daily.
I also previously did my evo with gravitex which is used on buses
#10
Personally I would use stone chip on the base metal, if your really concerned then overcoat with spray underseal.
See STONE CHIP with link to stone chip use.
HTH
See STONE CHIP with link to stone chip use.
HTH