Spark Plug Trouble
03-02-2011, 11:04 AM
#1
Spark Plug Trouble
Bought a set of NGK BKR7EIX plugs off another member on here.
I did an oil service yesterday, so I thought I'd do the plugs today.
Got the old ones out no problems, and installed the new ones according to a guide I found on here with the correct torque.
I'm finding that the engine is struggling a little now, especially when the revs drop it feels like it's about to stall.
One thing I didn't do was gap them which I think might be my problem...
Am I right in saying it should be 1mm or 1.1mm? I noticed the gap looked a lot smaller on the new plugs than the old plugs.
Are these the right plugs for a start, or have I just wasted my money?
I did an oil service yesterday, so I thought I'd do the plugs today.
Got the old ones out no problems, and installed the new ones according to a guide I found on here with the correct torque.
I'm finding that the engine is struggling a little now, especially when the revs drop it feels like it's about to stall.
One thing I didn't do was gap them which I think might be my problem...
Am I right in saying it should be 1mm or 1.1mm? I noticed the gap looked a lot smaller on the new plugs than the old plugs.
Are these the right plugs for a start, or have I just wasted my money?
03-02-2011, 11:17 AM
#2
New plugs are usually gapped for easy install, and the old plugs would/may have had a bigger gap because they were "old".?
03-02-2011, 02:10 PM
#3
ECU reset and let it learn the new plugs?
03-02-2011, 04:43 PM
#5
Registered User
DO NOT GAP YOUR PLUGS!!!!!!!!
The plugs are set with the correct gap, you will only mess it up.
An ECU reset is all that is needed.
With an ECU reset, you pull the 7.5A fuse for 30 seconds, then stick it back in.
Once you start back up, let the car IDLE (As in NO throttle movement at all) for 10 mins.
Job done.
Just wondering, what torque did you do on you Sparkplugs? The original was 12 lbs/ft and people started blowing plugs. Honda then decided to up it to 17 lbs/ft. And then you have to factor in torque wrench error. T'is all good
The plugs are set with the correct gap, you will only mess it up.
An ECU reset is all that is needed.
With an ECU reset, you pull the 7.5A fuse for 30 seconds, then stick it back in.
Once you start back up, let the car IDLE (As in NO throttle movement at all) for 10 mins.
Job done.
Just wondering, what torque did you do on you Sparkplugs? The original was 12 lbs/ft and people started blowing plugs. Honda then decided to up it to 17 lbs/ft. And then you have to factor in torque wrench error. T'is all good
03-02-2011, 10:23 PM
#6
Maybe I'm being old fashioned; but I'd never feel comfortable torquing plugs up with a torque wrench. I know it only applies what you put on it, but back when I was trained it was usually a 3/8" drive hand wrench: tight, and then a nip.
03-02-2011, 11:06 PM
#7
I don't think your being old fashioned, ill probably a lot younger than you and use the same method. I have done for years and never had a problem.
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03-02-2011, 11:29 PM
#8
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The problem is, nipping up is so vague for spanner monkeys working for Honda the engineers have to set a torque setting for them to abide by. 17lbs/ft is nipped up, but you know what some (amateur) mechanics are like, they will hang off it to make sure it is tight which is just as bad as having it loose in a aluminium head!
So, the Honda Engineers have quite rightly given a benchmark, but going till it is tight and then a 1/4 --> 1/2 turn till it is nipped is probably about right.
I would always check the gap before installing, you don't know if the gap was ever set properly at the factory, whether it was then subsequently changed in its crossing in a container over rough seas to be then transported in a lorry on our dodgy pot holed ridden holes and then jostled by people who don't care if it says fragile on the box! In short, I am sure the gap is fine, but it is worth checking with some feeler gauges.
So, the Honda Engineers have quite rightly given a benchmark, but going till it is tight and then a 1/4 --> 1/2 turn till it is nipped is probably about right.
I would always check the gap before installing, you don't know if the gap was ever set properly at the factory, whether it was then subsequently changed in its crossing in a container over rough seas to be then transported in a lorry on our dodgy pot holed ridden holes and then jostled by people who don't care if it says fragile on the box! In short, I am sure the gap is fine, but it is worth checking with some feeler gauges.
