There is a lot of hate written about the Spoon ECU esp from people who have spent big bucks and just favour their own brand, fair play whatever floats your boat, but this ecu is definately a good buy. Its a top end ecu it sorts out the power band to a more linear one, its maps are designed to take full advantage of various spoon bits like manifold,exhaust and throttle body, but these things are optimum mods but i say its not worth the expense, with your mods it should be sufficient enough. Yep do the cooling mods for added assurance - that reminds me so should i!

 

I agree and stop the scare mungering on the Mugen ECU, which from all the reads I have read gets better gains across the rev range. The Spoon made good gains on the Dyno and Mase could only achieve a slight increase over the Spoon, I think the Spoon ran 206whp (with Toda catback/decatt and tracy sports manifold and mugen intake) and the AEM could only achieve 210whp, not that much difference although the stock ECU was not tested. I would think you will get better gains from a decat and spoon manifold, and perhaps a different intake.

 

Scare mongering? I don't think there was.

Question... Would you disconnect the knock sensor on your car?



I personally wouldn't therefore I woudn't have a Mugen ECU.

 

I used a Mugen ECU for a couple of years and never had a problem with it and I am not aware of anyone else that has had problems from using a Mugen ECU.

However, I am aware of 2 blown engines where Spoon ECU's were being used ....... (but I think that was coincidental)

 

I'm not saying anyone has had problems - i'm just saying i'm not keen on it overriding a critical safety function found on all modern cars

 

Yes you are/were in a way!

There is no history of any issues what so ever with the Mugen N1 ecu, from Japan/HK/UK and even American where there fuel is inferior. Infact I would likely say of the Mugen/Spoon or J's Racing Mugen is likely the safer option and backed by Honda. I now have the ECU instructions translated, you must use the cooling mods and must NOT use a cat, that includes a sport cats :-)

I also asked Mase on Saturday, his opinion was that these ECU's are set on the side of caution, hence he can extract a few moe whp using the AEM ECU, but not enough for me to want to pay 2.5 times as much, unless I intend to modify mine further which I dont!

The J's has no rev limiter, in my mind this is more dangerous. I wouldnt want to run any of these ECU's without fitting the recommended mods, thermostate,fan switch, and radiator cap, plus intake Exhaust and manifold as well as a decat. Although our weather is poor, heat seems to be the main factor here, and these are strongly recommended, sticking the Spoon ECU into a stock car without the above mods seems risky to me, and may give problems.

 

Right so from reading this i would be good to go with a rad cap, thermostat and fan switch.

Seems a more linear and smoothed out powerband seems good to me

Its looking more interesting and appealing.

Cheapest best place to buy the bits?


Cheers guys.

 

Ajs s2K, I would strongly suggest you decat the car as well, if you fit a manifold and exhaust you will likely see better gains, but I am almost certain that a decat is necessary.

 

I disagree. I was making a factual statement. It may be safely mapped for fuel but it doens't utilise the knock sensor.

(ps no issues EVER is a brave statement)

I agree on the cooling mods with the Spoon - but not having the exhaust manifold / decat / manifold - explain how this could be risky?

 

Mark, I have had the Mugen N1 ECU instructions translated, it catergory states not to use a cat, as this will lead to increased temps, and inorder to use the Mugen ECU you must remove it. I assume the spoon should be similar if anything it is more agressively mapped than the Mugen, this is what the instructions say. I would also think changing the manifold while not necessary will give better increases.

Therefore I would say you need the thermostate, fan switch and oil cap as well as the decat to be safe, as mugen888 has said he prefers mugen, how many on this board have actually tried both?! The knock sensor issue does not bother me, if the car is properly set up, and you dont risk using supermarket fuel you are unlikely to have any issues, I am also changing my fuel regulator to the mugen one to air on the safe side. I have searched all forums I cannot find one case of anyone having an issue with the Mugen ECU, unless you have heard otherwise, i presume it to be safe!