Stalling at idle
This week, out of the blue, the engine has started dropping revs right down on idle to the point of stalling. Most embarrassing at the lights I can tell you
Never fails to start no problems with a push of the trusty red button but obviously concerned especially when she had a service last month.
Engine feels/sounds fine at usual driving revs - problems only when running at idle.
Any suggestions?
Never fails to start no problems with a push of the trusty red button but obviously concerned especially when she had a service last month.
Engine feels/sounds fine at usual driving revs - problems only when running at idle.
Any suggestions?
Disagree entirely. As you know my car has had this issue for months and I checked the throttle cable setup. You can cut the wire completely if you want and the spring will close the throttle to the idle position (and thus the car will idle fine). You should only adjust the throttle cable if your idle is artificially high or if the amount of cable slack is causing the first inch or so of pedal travel to be meaningless.
Nobody has solved the idle/stalling problem yet (as far as I'm aware). I am now 13 days into running around on a borrowed working MAF (cheers Chris Type-R) and I will be ready to report on my findings soon. Early indications are encouraging but I've learned never to count my chickens until the eggs hatch.
I did notice excessive oil residue in the intake system when I was fitting the new MAF. There is a thread in this forum at the moment about this. I'm interested to know if this oil is contaminating our sensors.
Nobody has solved the idle/stalling problem yet (as far as I'm aware). I am now 13 days into running around on a borrowed working MAF (cheers Chris Type-R) and I will be ready to report on my findings soon. Early indications are encouraging but I've learned never to count my chickens until the eggs hatch.
I did notice excessive oil residue in the intake system when I was fitting the new MAF. There is a thread in this forum at the moment about this. I'm interested to know if this oil is contaminating our sensors.
Cable is bollox. (Not Mr., I mean)
The idle is controlled by a throttle bypass valve, located at the bottom of the TB.
I'm with SB on this - I bet it's all full of shit (like 1/2 the UK these days!).
Give it a thorough clean, before worrying about the solid state bits.
The idle is controlled by a throttle bypass valve, located at the bottom of the TB.
I'm with SB on this - I bet it's all full of shit (like 1/2 the UK these days!).
Give it a thorough clean, before worrying about the solid state bits.
This happened once after my last S was serviced. reset the ECU and made it go through the idle learning program. Someone else I am sure will be able to explain the sequence to gothrough I followed it and promptly forgot it 
never happened again

never happened again
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Originally Posted by Saxo Boy,Mar 25 2006, 01:40 PM
You can cut the wire completely if you want and the spring will close the throttle to the idle position (and thus the car will idle fine).
I would be checking MAP sensor as already stated, then IACV and all related hoses.
Then scratching my bollox and would not be happy.
The Teg does this until it's warm, that is because of the AEM ECU though, as soon as it's warm all fine.




I mean MAP
