Stalling at idle
#1
Stalling at idle
A little concerned in the past few weeks the S keeps stalling when at idle i.e. traffic lights or waiting to pull out on a roundabout (not ideal), it's happening about once a week. Engine just dies, turn the ignition off, turn it back on and starts first time. I'm about 2k miles off the next service and it's only ever run on Optimax and now V-Power. Experienced a little Kangerooing recently (not happened before), but nothing to write home about.
Anything I need to get checked or any ideas, still under warranty since I bought it in April.
Thanks.
Anything I need to get checked or any ideas, still under warranty since I bought it in April.
Thanks.
#2
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Could be anything really, MAP sensor issue maybe ??
Does it just cut, or do the revs stumble and a bit of a stutter ??
Mine was starting to touble under idling, it turned out to be the air con compressor. Wouldn't think this will be your issue, but it's a possibility.
Does it just cut, or do the revs stumble and a bit of a stutter ??
Mine was starting to touble under idling, it turned out to be the air con compressor. Wouldn't think this will be your issue, but it's a possibility.
#3
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Could be any number of things. Do a search on "stalling" or "idle"
One thing it wont be is the fuel quality.
There is also a thread in the FAQ of under the hood which may help.
Quick check the throttle cable is taught.
MB
One thing it wont be is the fuel quality.
There is also a thread in the FAQ of under the hood which may help.
Quick check the throttle cable is taught.
MB
#4
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I had this last year and solved it by doing the following:
* Replace MAP sensor
* Clean in and around the throttle body and inlet pipe with a rag
* Perform ECU reset (search it)
* Perform Idle-learn process (search it)
The problem dissapeared for 9 months and many miles.........until.....just recently!!
So last night armed with a new MAP sensor (thanks mytse) I went down to the car and tried to remove the old one. The soft-as-sh*t screws would not budge and I ended up mincing them up. They will have to be drilled out now I decided to go for a tap n' clean approach and then I did an ECU reset.
Next I started the car to cycle her on idle up to full temperature. It took about 30seconds to catch and exploded to life with a CEL (check engine light). Game over She drove fairly well this morning up to Chatham Honda where the car will now reside for the forseeable future until the problem is found. I suspect my problem is different and more serious than last year (I'm hoping just a ####ed sparky).
As for your problem you could try my original solution. I have noticed however, that these threads seem restricted to winter time. I believe the colder temperatures are a factor but I don't know why and neither did anyone in the wider general technical part of the board. One piece of advice I got from Xviper is when the car is dropping to low revs don't artificially support it with the throttle. Let it do its thing (i.e. learn). If it stalls, fine, restart it but don't hold an idle with your foot. I found this improved the situation and generally the car wouldn't stall or drop into low revs for too long. It started to learn to take care of itself but the problem didn't fully go away until I replaced the MAP.
Having checked my throttle cable last year I don't believe it can be a contributing factor. When its fully slack the spring will keep the butterfly fully closed which is where it should be for idle. If its too tight you might artificially raise the idle.
* Replace MAP sensor
* Clean in and around the throttle body and inlet pipe with a rag
* Perform ECU reset (search it)
* Perform Idle-learn process (search it)
The problem dissapeared for 9 months and many miles.........until.....just recently!!
So last night armed with a new MAP sensor (thanks mytse) I went down to the car and tried to remove the old one. The soft-as-sh*t screws would not budge and I ended up mincing them up. They will have to be drilled out now I decided to go for a tap n' clean approach and then I did an ECU reset.
Next I started the car to cycle her on idle up to full temperature. It took about 30seconds to catch and exploded to life with a CEL (check engine light). Game over She drove fairly well this morning up to Chatham Honda where the car will now reside for the forseeable future until the problem is found. I suspect my problem is different and more serious than last year (I'm hoping just a ####ed sparky).
As for your problem you could try my original solution. I have noticed however, that these threads seem restricted to winter time. I believe the colder temperatures are a factor but I don't know why and neither did anyone in the wider general technical part of the board. One piece of advice I got from Xviper is when the car is dropping to low revs don't artificially support it with the throttle. Let it do its thing (i.e. learn). If it stalls, fine, restart it but don't hold an idle with your foot. I found this improved the situation and generally the car wouldn't stall or drop into low revs for too long. It started to learn to take care of itself but the problem didn't fully go away until I replaced the MAP.
Having checked my throttle cable last year I don't believe it can be a contributing factor. When its fully slack the spring will keep the butterfly fully closed which is where it should be for idle. If its too tight you might artificially raise the idle.
#5
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Mine stalled after a three mile drive today and from then on it threatened to do so again every time i stopped. It's never happened before. It was very cold here today. Geoff.
#6
I've noticed when the car is cold (ie. first thing in the morning) when driving and approaching a junction you dip the clutch and the revs will drop and it feels as if it's about to stall but doesn't - I'd just assumed this was normal and just part of the warming up process...
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#9
Cold weather brought it on for my car last year. I took it into my dealer who cleaned/adjusted the throttle position sensor and the problem didn't come back till after I traded it in.
#10
Thanks for all the replies, if the problem continues I'll give some of the suggestions a go, that or i'll take the back routes to work on the country lanes, twice the fun and eliminates the cause of the problem i.e. traffic lights and roundabouts.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.