Tie rod ends
#1
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Tie rod ends
Hey people I'm looking at buying all the bump steer kit for my s as I'm lowering it soon. I know you have to get steering rack spacers to compensate for the angle change. I found some adjustable tie rod ends do these do the same as the rack spacers? Look much easier to fit than the rack spacers too.
#2
I would strongly discourage buying Megan tie-rod ends, mine worked play into the joints within a few months and I have had to have them removed. I replaced them with J's Racing at substantial cost because I felt that steering feel was improved most probably owing to the the stiffer ball joint than OEM.
You don't actually need them on the front to negate the bump-steer effect, steering rack spacers do the job and are marginally cheaper. Having done both jobs I reckon there's little in the difficulty, though you could probably get away without ruining your geometry if you fit the tie rod ends carefully.
I won't be fitting any more Megan parts to my car if the rear control arms give in too. I'd say roll centre adjusters are a good idea too, albeit the priciest part of addressing bump-steer effect of lowering.
P.S. You can have my ~3 month old Megan tie rod ends for nothing if you're happy to have 1mm of play in your steering...
You don't actually need them on the front to negate the bump-steer effect, steering rack spacers do the job and are marginally cheaper. Having done both jobs I reckon there's little in the difficulty, though you could probably get away without ruining your geometry if you fit the tie rod ends carefully.
I won't be fitting any more Megan parts to my car if the rear control arms give in too. I'd say roll centre adjusters are a good idea too, albeit the priciest part of addressing bump-steer effect of lowering.
P.S. You can have my ~3 month old Megan tie rod ends for nothing if you're happy to have 1mm of play in your steering...
#3
Good info, I had also considered these track rod ends too.
I would say they are an easier fit, but the spherical joints ('rose joints')had me worried too.
They are for race use and are exposed to the elements so doubt they will last long given our winters.
I'd go the spacer route for reliability and simplicity, even if marginally trickier to fit.
See my sig link to the KWv3 for pitfalls and suggestions~?
I would say they are an easier fit, but the spherical joints ('rose joints')had me worried too.
They are for race use and are exposed to the elements so doubt they will last long given our winters.
I'd go the spacer route for reliability and simplicity, even if marginally trickier to fit.
See my sig link to the KWv3 for pitfalls and suggestions~?
#4
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Great advise. Thanks. I'll go with the spacers then, however I don't want to pay that sort of money for some machined billets they are so expensive for what they are. Think I'll make my own on the milling machine at work. Does anyone know what thickness spacer is required for a 25mm drop? May even make a few more and sell them if people are interested.
#6
I have 13mm spacers on mine with a 30mm drop - chosen on the advice of CG. I fitted them after a few months of running lowered without them and the front end was more planted with them fitted, added a Cusco front lower brace and it's doubly planted.
I agree that they're a rip off, you could make them in a few minutes for a couple of quid. I paid
I agree that they're a rip off, you could make them in a few minutes for a couple of quid. I paid
#7
Yeh Matty, knock some up.
Keep them about 13mm or the bolts/spacers get awkward to fit.
Make sure you use the correct type and length of bolts too, you don't want anything shearing here.
You'll need the toe rods adjusting after, theres a fair bit of play in all the rack mounts.
Keep them about 13mm or the bolts/spacers get awkward to fit.
Make sure you use the correct type and length of bolts too, you don't want anything shearing here.
You'll need the toe rods adjusting after, theres a fair bit of play in all the rack mounts.
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#8
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Thanks all I'll have a bash at making some. As for the bolts I'll get some high tensile bolts from work that we use on the cat machines and locking nuts.
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