Toms S2K
#131
I've tried a lot of local tuners and they're reluctant/never had any experience with piggy backs mate. I was all keen for a greddy emanage ultimate but no one seems to tune them.
#132
Big update
Sorn'd the S at the end of October, Decided she needs quite a bit of work to make me happy again. Before sorning her, I did purchase an AEM UEGO Wideband ready for mapping, but had a rethink and thought this work takes priority over mapping for now.
Currently looking extremely sorry for herself
Rear Subframe completely dropped out and the original diff has now been removed. Going to be Tidying it up and painting it before refitting.
Even more sorry for herself :'(
God Dam Arch cancer... Inner and outter arch is foobed... Even attacked the sill too.
I'll also be fitting new solid brake lines for the back, opting for Cupro Nickel lines over the standard copper.
The underneath will be treating to a bit of Jenoliting, Zinc priming and undersealing to prevent further rust in the hard to reach places
Sorn'd the S at the end of October, Decided she needs quite a bit of work to make me happy again. Before sorning her, I did purchase an AEM UEGO Wideband ready for mapping, but had a rethink and thought this work takes priority over mapping for now.
Currently looking extremely sorry for herself
Rear Subframe completely dropped out and the original diff has now been removed. Going to be Tidying it up and painting it before refitting.
Even more sorry for herself :'(
God Dam Arch cancer... Inner and outter arch is foobed... Even attacked the sill too.
I'll also be fitting new solid brake lines for the back, opting for Cupro Nickel lines over the standard copper.
The underneath will be treating to a bit of Jenoliting, Zinc priming and undersealing to prevent further rust in the hard to reach places
#133
Well it's the new year so thought it was time I done an update.
Quite a bit has gone on over the X-mas period.
All removed parts were treated to Jenolite rust remover, zinc primed and Autotek Stoneguard or Hammerite smooth black.
Looking much better now
New diff in Subframe
All new Kunifer brake lines, no more scabby brake lines.
Top tools and tech used here
Subframe back in! I marked up all the alignment holes on the frame and I believe to have got it back in near enough the exact same position before it came off.
All brake lines plumbed in
The rusty P clips you see are due to be replaced and I am still giving the underneath of the subframe + a few other bits some attention.
Quite a bit has gone on over the X-mas period.
All removed parts were treated to Jenolite rust remover, zinc primed and Autotek Stoneguard or Hammerite smooth black.
Looking much better now
New diff in Subframe
All new Kunifer brake lines, no more scabby brake lines.
Top tools and tech used here
Subframe back in! I marked up all the alignment holes on the frame and I believe to have got it back in near enough the exact same position before it came off.
All brake lines plumbed in
The rusty P clips you see are due to be replaced and I am still giving the underneath of the subframe + a few other bits some attention.
#134
That looks great,every time I'm under the s I keep promising my self that I will remove the subframes,but there's always something in the engine bay that needs improving:-(
Keep up the good work:-)
Keep up the good work:-)
#136
Cheers Henry, was chuffed with the bumper completely changed the look of the car as did the facelift wheels
#139
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Coningsby, Lincolnshire
Posts: 356
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I shall be doing this soon too. Interested to know how easy it was to drop.
Guessing its a few bolts that secure the frame to the chassis, diff disconnected and the suspension tops unbolted? Oh and the brake lines.
Guessing its a few bolts that secure the frame to the chassis, diff disconnected and the suspension tops unbolted? Oh and the brake lines.
#140
Yeah got the car a good 2 foot in the air. Disconnected everything and did as you said. Be careful though. The diff is off centre so It'll kick to the left.