markforrester99

That is way too warm on an OEM car whilst moving. You should be seeing 85-90. At idle in traffic the fan will come on at 97c.

Also 30 minutes is too long on track without a decent set of cooling mods ie oil cooler and a better radiator. You will be cooking the oil after 20 minutes.

mikefifth

Whilst slightly off topic, could someone pm me how to alter when the fans operate on an aem ecu please. Apparently mine are engaging too soon.

I recently replaced my rad after seeing track Temps at 100 to 110 which is too high. New rad is seeing Temps around 85 on road, old rad was around 96 on road.

markforrester99

Mike the calibration for inlet and coolant sensors is off in the standard aem settings. You can search and find out how to do it easily enough.

You can adjust the fans settings

- open your map
- tools
- config outputs

rad fan off and rad fan on are the settings. I have mine come on at 92 and go off at 88.

I also change the rpm at least setting in the same window to 100rpm. It used to annoy me that when trying to mess with the map or download datalogs that the aem would insist on keeping turning the fans on, even more so with my spal ones which really hammer the battery. With it set to 100rpm it will only come on when the car is running.

mikefifth

Thank you very much. I may be dropping you a PM tomorrow when I'm sat in the car all hooked up

E4RTH WORM JIM

Mike can you post a link to the thread with the correct calibration tables for AIT & ECT please

mikefifth

Mike can you post a link to the thread with the correct calibration tables for AIT & ECT please
[/quote]

Would lover to but I think you may have more luck asking Mark

E4RTH WORM JIM

Anyone

markforrester99

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/184...-calibrations/

Before doing it i would go to tools - preferences and change from C to F

Then you select the sensor tab and putting the info into the various tables. A word of warning thou is that it doesn't change the segments on the temperature gauge so sometimes it appears warmer on the gauge than it is. The highest i have seen is when its fully in the middle of the gauge. Never been a problem for me and the fans still work as they would.

Once done just change the temperature settings from F to C again.

E4RTH WORM JIM

Thanks that's the thread I found through searching also

The thing that confused me is that under the "table view mode" the voltage increments are in 0.2 not the 0.16 that is shown in the thread?

Mike's

Right back on track the radiator isn't looking the best the lower half is starting to loose the cooling fins. I'm not running the front undertray at the minute also so air could be getting pushed under the car I'm going to make a new one next week with a splitter as that is what I had planned.

I was out yesterday just doing some round town driving it would sit around the 94 95 degrees waiting at the lights would take it up to 98 degrees but come back down to 94 95 when moving again,

Sniff test passed

And was talking to a pal at his garage he also races quite a lot, he said no to worry to much and we came to a decision to do a once over on the cooling system going to install a new aluminium rad coolant flush and new thermostat just for peice of mind.

What's the recommended fan set up I think I will be going with a mishimoto rad unless there is a more recommended one

Would I have any benefit going for a lower temp thermostat or just replace for OEM