Is it worth applying more underseal?
#1
Is it worth applying more underseal?
Hi,
Some may remember a few weeks back I asked for some advice on whether I should purchase my dads W plate red S2000. Well I went ahead and done it! Now selling my MR2.
The S2000 is stored in the garage at the moment until better weather arrives. Since its just sitting I wondered if I should re-underseal it again? I have a compressor and was going to buy a gun and shultz.
Few guys at work mentioned not to do it as it will be fine with Honda protection and I might actually make it more prone to corrosion.
Was wondering what you guys on here thought?
Cheers,
Mike
Some may remember a few weeks back I asked for some advice on whether I should purchase my dads W plate red S2000. Well I went ahead and done it! Now selling my MR2.
The S2000 is stored in the garage at the moment until better weather arrives. Since its just sitting I wondered if I should re-underseal it again? I have a compressor and was going to buy a gun and shultz.
Few guys at work mentioned not to do it as it will be fine with Honda protection and I might actually make it more prone to corrosion.
Was wondering what you guys on here thought?
Cheers,
Mike
#2
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I'd underseal it.
Pay special attention to the rear arches. remove the rubber strips, clean, underseal and refit (some do not refit). Moisture gets trapped in there.
I just re-undersealed our 8 year old Accord type R. It needed re-doing after 8 yrs/98k miles.
You can never have too much.
Make sure there's no salt on the panels before you spray them with underseal
Congrats on the purchase BTW
Pay special attention to the rear arches. remove the rubber strips, clean, underseal and refit (some do not refit). Moisture gets trapped in there.
I just re-undersealed our 8 year old Accord type R. It needed re-doing after 8 yrs/98k miles.
You can never have too much.
Make sure there's no salt on the panels before you spray them with underseal
Congrats on the purchase BTW
#5
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My local garage did the Accord. He used some stuff that is aerosol rather than Waxoyl. not sure if it's better - I'll see how to wears this year.
I have a spare tin in the garage if you want me to find out what it's called.
Waxoyl is a horrible job. You can do it yourself but it's easier on a ramp.
I have a spare tin in the garage if you want me to find out what it's called.
Waxoyl is a horrible job. You can do it yourself but it's easier on a ramp.
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#9
Check with a local paintshop or accessory shop, they'll know what to use with a gun, I'd ask my mate but it's a bit late in the day for that, I'll try to mind and do that tomorrow.
#10
I am going to do mine, having removed all of the accumulated dirt, it appears the arch is completely bare of any form of underseal, from the lip and about 50mm up from it, presumably it is thought that this area does not suffer from abrasion, Ive found exactly the same thing on my CRV. I am going to use black stone chip, instead of Underbody Schultz underseal, it can be painted over if required (unlike underseal), and if applied in layers can be built up to a good thickness. It's my intention to brush apply to the rear or the wheel arch lip, to ensure that I have actually got it right into the corner, apply a couple of thin coats and then use the gun to apply 2 to 3 coats. A useful write up here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/stonechip.htm
Roger
Roger