roflitzjinno

Currently thinking of buying a trailer for the S for the future. More of a just in case factor. Had a friend mess up his motor while at the track and we needed a tow back. Was not a fun time trying to make shit work out.

So I'm trying to research a trailer for the S2000 and a car that can potential tow it with no problems. Any suggestions guys? At least from those who have trailered their car before.

Things I know I'd want for trailer and the car are:

Trailer:

Enclosed

Car:

Japanese (Preferably, but will listen to other options)
SUV (No trucks, as it will still be a "family" car)
Have enough towing capacity (Don't want to have to be worried about this"

Honestly, don't even know where to start for this other than looking for towing capacities of SUV's.

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05/13/14 UPDATE

So I'm going to bring this back from the dead because my father is in need of a new car and we will probably be replacing his RX300 with something suitable for me to use for track days for me.

I've reread the thread over and over and considered many things. Met a few people asked questions as far as trailer and SUV combinations. As far as trailer goes, there's no place to put it where I currently live so the option of renting a UHAUL auto transport trailer was brought to attention and it seems that will be the current choice of trailer for the S2000. The S2000 at most would weigh in at around 2900LBS. Taking to account that recommended payload could be anywhere between 10% to 15%, I'll just throw both those numbers in there.

S2000: 2900LBS (overestimating)
UHAUL Auto Trailer: 2210LBS to 2500LBS (New VS old model)
TOTAL TOWING WEIGHT: 5110LBS to 5400LBS (give or take)

Payload: 2900LBS+2210LBS=511LBS-766.5LBS OR 2900LBS+2500LBS=540LBS-810LBS

I've tried to research here and there as far as vehicles to purchase. So now we're looking into, still an SUV, in the $30K to $60K range. Huge range, I know, but that's just an estimate as to what is affordable for me at the moment. We're still looking at Japanese models, and possibly some European models. My parents still want to steer away from good ol' Merica models, although buying a truck would be ideal.

What we've currently looked at recently that was a NEW SUV was Toyota Sequoia, Toyota 4Runner, Nissan Pathfinder, Nissan Armada, Audi Q7, VW Toureg, and Mercedez Benz GL450. Obviously huge price range between these cars. All the towing capacity ranges from 5000LBS to 9000LBS. I'm more inclined to drop our 5000LBS towing capacity choices.

As far as used cars go, they're primarily the same options as new, but the amount of mileage on them and how long the car will last scares me, just to save a few bucks. Although few bucks in this case means thousands, but you get the point.

All in all, I probably do about 10 to 15 track days a year now. Track days recently have just been around the Midwest. Furthest so far was Mid-Ohio, so that gives you an idea of how far I would be travelling for track days. My father will be the one primarily using the car. He only drives short distances. Maybe the occasional 4 hour drive to Wisconsin for golf, but that's it. I know my parents love the peace of mind with a brand new car, which is maybe what we might steer more towards as far as warranty goes.

Still any suggestions or input as far as the choices above or OTHER SUV's to consider would be much appreciated guys. Thanks!

jeggy

Toyota sequioa.

jeggy

Also, check oit racingjunk.com for used trailors.

BlueBarchetta

Your stated goals are not likely compatible. It might be possible, but here are some issues

1. Enclosed trailers are going to bring your towed weight up to 7-8 K, depending on your trailer. Your tongue weight is going to push 950-1000 lbs.
2. Never consider a tow vehicle based on it's tow rating. Tow rating is irrelevant. Tow ratings are never the limiting factor. The important numbers are payload, and tongue load restrictions.
3. There are no uni body SUV's that will safely handle an enclosed trailer, because they will have tongue load ratings (or payload restrictions) too low. Most Japanese SUV's are unibody

How can you maybe make it work

1. Limit yourself to an ultra lightweight, basic, unfinished interior all aluminum enclosed. 20 feet or less. This will keep your weight down. Mfg's: featherlight, ATC, InTech, or Trailex
2. If you need it to be an SUV, you should be looking at 3/4 ton Surburbans, or Excursions. Even the 1/2 ton suburban's are a stretch.

So you know, I just went through this entire process myself less than one year ago. I desperately wanted to do an enclosed with an SUV. I drove the Sequioa several times. Great SUV, not enough payload or tongue weight capability for an enclosed. I ended up with a max tow package, super crew F150. 11,300 lbs tow rating, 1650 lbs payload, 1200 lbs tongue rating. I use a weight distributing hitch. I'm towing a 24 ft trailer, total weight 7850, tongue weight is 1000 lbs. I consider my truck the absolute minimum I'd use for this job.

Now if you want to tow on an open trailer, you options expand greatly.

Clark

You didn't give much detail on your SUV needs, however I just replaced my tow vehicle with a more family friendly SUV. Surprisingly what is a rather nice SUV, has your capacity and can be had for dirt cheap (if you want to buy used with some mileage) is a 2005-2008 Land Rover LR3. I just bought a 2005 with 80k miles, towing and heavy duty package, heated front and back seats, all auto climate controls, a nifty 'insta-clear' windshield de-icing feature, etc. etc. (I didn't get the one with the integrated bluetooth phone and garage door opener) and what originally stickered at over $75k went for $16k. Oh, did I mention the 3rd row seats? That was a nice bonus; to fit 7 in a mid-ish size SUV. Those things depreciated faster than yesterday's Sushi as soon as the LR4 came out. Apparently Land Rover people don't like to be seen wearing last year's fashion.

The towing capacity is 7,700 lbs with trailer brakes of course. The brake controller wires up in 5 mins with the factory Ford harness. Mine tows my 16' enclosed trailer all day long without problem and if I'm not too rough on the throttle & speed I get 10-11 mpg thanks to the 6 speed trans. The turning circle/maneuverability of that truck is amazing. I suggest a sway control bar for the trailer though due to the short wheelbase of the truck.

If worried about traditional 'Land Rover reliability' issues, I wouldn't worry so much. This was the first LR completely designed after Ford bought them, so you're less likely to have weird LR issues and more to have mere Ford issues (which I'm sure are there, but less weird). The weak link I think would be the air suspension, which is nice until it goes on you and conceivably costs you many $$$. However there are nice little kits (around 2k I think) to just convert it to a traditional coil-over at that point and now you're back in business without worry of suspension wonkiness.

Something to think about if you're not looking to buy new or spend a bunch on the SUV (mine's still a nice, clean family truck).

Mikesrv6

For something a little sportier to drive on a daily basis. A Jeep Grand Cherokee with the hemi. GVW of 13,000, trailer of 7500, and a tongue wt of 750. But I think it would still be wise to go with the open trailer. My Jeep has air shocks in back to even out the load. But you would still need an equilizer hitch with that much weight. As a bonus, 20 mpg on trips. Don't expect that around town. Little smaller, little more fun for me to drive than the others we drove. Did like the Range Rover for all the reasons stated. My other Jeep has 120,000 trouble free miles, and still going. My Grand has been trouble free for 3 years. But if you are really going to tow, a 3/4 ton or heavier truck is the way to go. And if you plan on towing a lot a diesel is great.

jeggy

If you don't want to worry about the math and weight capacities and all that, just get a CDL and buy a sleeper cab semi with a car hualer.

roflitzjinno

Thanks for the input guys. I think I may have to go with an open trailer, due to there being very little options for what I want. Oh well. But like you guys said, going with an open trailer I have WAY more options for vehicles to choose from.

Clark

Yeah, I guess it depends on your goals and where you want to compromise more; trailer or truck. I love my enclosed trailer and I like camping at the track. I just sleep in a hammock in my trailer once the car is out. It's perfect. I think you have plenty of options if you're more open on the truck side. I gave the LR option. My friends have been towing for thousands of miles without problem with an '05 or so Dodge Durango.

I personally think that BlueBarchetta is being a little conservative, particularly with the tongue load. Typically the proper tongue load is between 9 and 15% of total trailer weight. So you could go 10% of 7k which would be a tongue load of 700 lbs. Also total payload is important, but when towing are you bringing a whole crew of people and stuff inside your truck or would you be more solo or with 1 person and have the bulk of your stuff in the trailer?

Open trailers give you better fuel economy and more options on the truck side. Closed trailers give your security, more ability to bring stuff, and a place to sleep (in my case . And an extra garage for your car at home .

BlueBarchetta

I would agree that my recommendations are a little conservative in some areas. I do tend to tow largeish loads, for long distances. I've also been towing stuff for lots of years and really like to be comfortable doing it.

Some things to consider with tongue weight. Normal recommendation is for 10-15 %. A good number to use is 12. However this is also relative to the length of your trailer and tow vehicle. One of the primary purposes of tongue weight is to prevent trailer sway. A long trailer with a short, light tow vehicle, can induce some of that "tail wagging the dog" feel. If you can find a short 16-20 ft enclosed, light trailer, be conservative with what you put in it, you can get away with less tongue weight and thereby less tow vehicle. Also, no matter what, I'd highly recommend a weight distributing hitch with sway control.

On the tow vehicle, as Clark says it'll make a big difference if its just you, and maybe one other while you are towing. If you need to load up 4 people and also tow, payload issues become significant. Also, do you need a third row for everyday driving? If not, the 2 row full size pickups are great machines. I'm very much not a pickup guy, but my F150 drives and handles as good as any of the full size 3 row SUV's.

Maybe let us know how many will go with you, what do you need from your everyday vehicle, do you like to camp at the track?
How far would you typically tow, and how many times a year? How much stuff (spares, tires, etc) do you want to take? All these will lead you to pick the right trailer and tow vehicle