FS: 05 S2000
Original link with pictures http://forums.utahscca.com/showthread.php?t=8403 Has the prices in "RED" mentioned below...
I don't want to get too into it... I've taken a large pay cut with my current job. I currently can't afford to make a house payment and a car payment. I do not want to sell this car. I have been cutting expenses everywhere possible... trying to avoid the sale of this car. Regardless, I can't keep it.
The car has a couple dings and dents.
1. Ding in Drivers Side rear quarter panel.
2. Dent in Passenger Side Side Skirt.
3. Front Bumper paint is cracked from hitting cones.
4. Rear bumper paint is chipping along bottom around exhaust outlets.
Overall I'd rate it as "Good Condition". Mechanically it's tip-top except for a phantom ABS sensor that makes me want to blow my brains out. The ABS sensor kicks on at about 5mph while braking for stop lights. It doesn't effect braking... it's just annoying. I'm going to try and trouble shoot it again this weekend... Car neither consumes or burns ANY oil. The car does not leak any fluids whatsoever. Interior is mint.
The car has never seen snow. It has ZERO rust of any kind. Nothing. Car gets parked every November and doesn't come out till around April 15th.
If you've seen this car drive... you know there is nothing wrong with it. The car is actually a very nice daily driver. The suspension is stiff, but the shocks do an awesome job damping any bumps in the road. The ride is neither jarring or rough and the car simply carves through turns. A/C blows ice cold. Everything on the car works.
The modifications listed are the modifications that are going to be sold with the car. These prices are what the items cost new and do not include any labor of any kind.
This is a competitive car in STR. It would be an absolute hoot in BSP (always wanted to try that). If the proposed ECU rule change goes into effect for 2012 this will be the best S2000 to have for STR (with the exception of the CR... which is $26k for a bone stock CR....). Why? Call me and we can discuss.
2005 S2000
72,***Miles
KBB Book @ $15,865 (Good Condition)
S2000 Parts List:
Interior:
Modifry Shift Beeper (beeps when you need to shift @ redline) $60
Apexi VAFC II w/ Harness & Tune (adjusts Vtech engagement & Air/Fuel) $300 $175
Stock Leather Seats
Nagisa Low Down Seat Rail $350 $250
Passenger Seat Fixed Rail (For racing bucket only) $100 $25
Engine:
PLM Stainless Header $400 $250
Cut-off V Band Exhaust. (Stock exhaust bolts right up if desired) $120
K&N Intake w/ Custom Heat Shield Box $290
Brail 11.2 lb Race Battery $110 $80
Suspension:
Tein SRC Double Adjustable 16 Comp / 16 Rebound $3200 $1800(Same Shocks used on Wings West and Evasive Motorsports Record Holding time attack cars)
Two Sets of extra springs for Tein SRC coilovers 16k,14k, & 12K Spring Rates $240 $100
Gendron 1 ¼” Front Sway Bar Hollow $650 $350
Gendron Spherical Ball Bearing Sway bar mounts $325 $150
Extra set of endlinks for front bar $95 $50
SPC Offset Ball Joints (front) $180
ARP wheel studs $140
Urethane Filled Differential Mounts $30
Aluminum MX5 Rear Bar $40 $10
Brakes:
Axxis Ultimate Pads (Nearly New) $180
Extra Set of Rear Pads $70 $45
Wheels:
TR Motorsport 17x9” +63 wheels for STR $600
Nakang Street Tires 255/40/17 (nearly new) $300
H&R 10mm Wheel Spacers $120 $75
Tire Trailer / Tool Hauler:
Custom tire trailer with Tounge Box / Back Box / Can be modified for an additional $50 to hold 2 sets of wheels and tires. I just built this trailer two weeks ago. I have $450 into it not to mention about twenty some man hours. I will only sell the trailer with the car. $450 $400
Chase Race Hitch (hitch detaches with colder pins...pretty slick) $350 $150
Tire Tail (Carries Tires on back of vehicle without trailer) $150 $50
Recent Maintainence:
New Wheel Bearings all four corners (replaced when ARC studs were added) $140
New lower control arm ball joints $70
New Spark Plugs $60
Coolant Flushed / Changed (Honda Type II Blue Coolant)
Rear Diff Oil Changed (Motul 75w90)
Transmission Oil Changed (Honda MTF)
Engine Oil (Mobil 0w30 w/Bosch Filter) Changed every 1500 – 2000 miles… yes, excessive.. I know.
Extra Parts:
Stock shocks (6 Extra shocks total... blew two of the stocks and got a second set of stocks).
Stock sway bars Front / Rear
Stock Header w/ Heat-shields
Stock exhaust that bolts up to V Band
Extra Trunk lid. Same color as car. Bought it so I could mount a wing to it for track racing. $80 $40
Stock Duralast Battery
Price is $17,500 without trailer or $17,850 with trailer. $13,245 with all the parts in RED removed. Price is not negotiable. I have lowered the price due to selling the Buddy Club Wheels Seperate. Keep in mind, you can remove parts in Red in any order... i.e. you might only want to remove the seat brackets to save a couple hundred bucks. The final combination of parts does not matter. You can essentially make your own price!
THE RED PRICES NEXT TO THE PARTS INDICATE WHAT I WILL REMOVE FROM THE PRICE OF THE CAR IF YOU DO NOT WANT THOSE PARTS. I know I can sell these parts seperate very fast if I need to. I would love to sell this car as a complete package... because it's very competitive the way it's setup. Parts like the VAFC II are worth a heck of a lot more on the car because I have paid over $1000 in tuning the car with the VAFC II.
So, if you do the math, the car could be purchased for as low as $13,245.00. That is $2555 below "Good" book value.
How is pricing calculated? Well, I think the fair value of the car in stock form is approximately $14,850 - $15,000. I then added up the performance parts cost and marked them down approximately 60%. Performance parts depreciate... bottom line.
CAR IS OFFICIALLY FOR SALE!
CAR NEEDS TO BE SOLD. Re-worked current finances and there is simply no way to keep it. My loss is you're gain. I'd be happy to offer the buyer any help in regards to learning to go fast in this car as well (as long as they're local).
I don't want to get too into it... I've taken a large pay cut with my current job. I currently can't afford to make a house payment and a car payment. I do not want to sell this car. I have been cutting expenses everywhere possible... trying to avoid the sale of this car. Regardless, I can't keep it.
The car has a couple dings and dents.
1. Ding in Drivers Side rear quarter panel.
2. Dent in Passenger Side Side Skirt.
3. Front Bumper paint is cracked from hitting cones.
4. Rear bumper paint is chipping along bottom around exhaust outlets.
Overall I'd rate it as "Good Condition". Mechanically it's tip-top except for a phantom ABS sensor that makes me want to blow my brains out. The ABS sensor kicks on at about 5mph while braking for stop lights. It doesn't effect braking... it's just annoying. I'm going to try and trouble shoot it again this weekend... Car neither consumes or burns ANY oil. The car does not leak any fluids whatsoever. Interior is mint.
The car has never seen snow. It has ZERO rust of any kind. Nothing. Car gets parked every November and doesn't come out till around April 15th.
If you've seen this car drive... you know there is nothing wrong with it. The car is actually a very nice daily driver. The suspension is stiff, but the shocks do an awesome job damping any bumps in the road. The ride is neither jarring or rough and the car simply carves through turns. A/C blows ice cold. Everything on the car works.
The modifications listed are the modifications that are going to be sold with the car. These prices are what the items cost new and do not include any labor of any kind.
This is a competitive car in STR. It would be an absolute hoot in BSP (always wanted to try that). If the proposed ECU rule change goes into effect for 2012 this will be the best S2000 to have for STR (with the exception of the CR... which is $26k for a bone stock CR....). Why? Call me and we can discuss.
2005 S2000
72,***Miles
KBB Book @ $15,865 (Good Condition)
S2000 Parts List:
Interior:
Modifry Shift Beeper (beeps when you need to shift @ redline) $60
Apexi VAFC II w/ Harness & Tune (adjusts Vtech engagement & Air/Fuel) $300 $175
Stock Leather Seats
Nagisa Low Down Seat Rail $350 $250
Passenger Seat Fixed Rail (For racing bucket only) $100 $25
Engine:
PLM Stainless Header $400 $250
Cut-off V Band Exhaust. (Stock exhaust bolts right up if desired) $120
K&N Intake w/ Custom Heat Shield Box $290
Brail 11.2 lb Race Battery $110 $80
Suspension:
Tein SRC Double Adjustable 16 Comp / 16 Rebound $3200 $1800(Same Shocks used on Wings West and Evasive Motorsports Record Holding time attack cars)
Two Sets of extra springs for Tein SRC coilovers 16k,14k, & 12K Spring Rates $240 $100
Gendron 1 ¼” Front Sway Bar Hollow $650 $350
Gendron Spherical Ball Bearing Sway bar mounts $325 $150
Extra set of endlinks for front bar $95 $50
SPC Offset Ball Joints (front) $180
ARP wheel studs $140
Urethane Filled Differential Mounts $30
Aluminum MX5 Rear Bar $40 $10
Brakes:
Axxis Ultimate Pads (Nearly New) $180
Extra Set of Rear Pads $70 $45
Wheels:
TR Motorsport 17x9” +63 wheels for STR $600
Nakang Street Tires 255/40/17 (nearly new) $300
H&R 10mm Wheel Spacers $120 $75
Tire Trailer / Tool Hauler:
Custom tire trailer with Tounge Box / Back Box / Can be modified for an additional $50 to hold 2 sets of wheels and tires. I just built this trailer two weeks ago. I have $450 into it not to mention about twenty some man hours. I will only sell the trailer with the car. $450 $400
Chase Race Hitch (hitch detaches with colder pins...pretty slick) $350 $150
Tire Tail (Carries Tires on back of vehicle without trailer) $150 $50
Recent Maintainence:
New Wheel Bearings all four corners (replaced when ARC studs were added) $140
New lower control arm ball joints $70
New Spark Plugs $60
Coolant Flushed / Changed (Honda Type II Blue Coolant)
Rear Diff Oil Changed (Motul 75w90)
Transmission Oil Changed (Honda MTF)
Engine Oil (Mobil 0w30 w/Bosch Filter) Changed every 1500 – 2000 miles… yes, excessive.. I know.
Extra Parts:
Stock shocks (6 Extra shocks total... blew two of the stocks and got a second set of stocks).
Stock sway bars Front / Rear
Stock Header w/ Heat-shields
Stock exhaust that bolts up to V Band
Extra Trunk lid. Same color as car. Bought it so I could mount a wing to it for track racing. $80 $40
Stock Duralast Battery
Price is $17,500 without trailer or $17,850 with trailer. $13,245 with all the parts in RED removed. Price is not negotiable. I have lowered the price due to selling the Buddy Club Wheels Seperate. Keep in mind, you can remove parts in Red in any order... i.e. you might only want to remove the seat brackets to save a couple hundred bucks. The final combination of parts does not matter. You can essentially make your own price!
THE RED PRICES NEXT TO THE PARTS INDICATE WHAT I WILL REMOVE FROM THE PRICE OF THE CAR IF YOU DO NOT WANT THOSE PARTS. I know I can sell these parts seperate very fast if I need to. I would love to sell this car as a complete package... because it's very competitive the way it's setup. Parts like the VAFC II are worth a heck of a lot more on the car because I have paid over $1000 in tuning the car with the VAFC II.
So, if you do the math, the car could be purchased for as low as $13,245.00. That is $2555 below "Good" book value.
How is pricing calculated? Well, I think the fair value of the car in stock form is approximately $14,850 - $15,000. I then added up the performance parts cost and marked them down approximately 60%. Performance parts depreciate... bottom line.
CAR IS OFFICIALLY FOR SALE!
CAR NEEDS TO BE SOLD. Re-worked current finances and there is simply no way to keep it. My loss is you're gain. I'd be happy to offer the buyer any help in regards to learning to go fast in this car as well (as long as they're local).
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