See, you're not very clear in the problem you think you're having.
People on here are more than willing to help but you have to be clear on the symptoms you're experiencing.
Best diagnosis is obviously in person, replicating any issue but if you want online help you have to be clear and specific.

Driving uphill, upshift, RPMS drop is not a clutch issue.
If the clutch WASN'T "grabbing", your RPMS would go through the roof (as-if you were revving in neutral) NOT drop out.

This sounds more like a power issue or possibly (no offense) driver error.

 

Yeah probabaly a driving error or something.

 

Marky..., try to explain it using normal terms. Don't assume the clutch is slipping, don't use the term "pulling", say it just like it is happening..., for example:

I hit the accelerator, the sound of my engine reving goes up and the speedo also goes up, but the car does not get any faster. The engine sounds like it is going faster, the revs are going up but the car does not seem to go faster, or it does get faster but at a very slow rate.

It is the terminology that is confusion people that are trying to help.

 

Hahaha lolz dave i feel like alittle kid in here. Lolz this is funny.

 

I think we might be all overthinking this issue.

If you need more power when going up hills, downshift. Try doing this before deciding you need a new clutch/transmission/car/whatever. Please report back your findings.

 

Lolz lolz im pretty sure i need a new clutch. I was actually asking about my maintenance but i started bringing about my clutch problem. Anyways guys i actually have a qoute from 5252motorsport down in victoria. This is what they estimated?

The price including taxes, install with a Comp light flywheel for the Stage 2 clutch will be $1759.50 after tax.

Without the flywheel, $1395.50 taxes included.

 

*yawn*

Your issue is still undetermined. Don't get your clutch done (unless you just want to upgrade it).
But if you think it will change your issue (the way you're describing it) I think you will be upset.

No one is trying to treat you like a child, just trying to get a full, accurate, story. All information is key, even more so when you're looking for online diagnosis. I (and many others) are happy to help (for free) but you have to be clear and provide as much info as possible.

I deal with this at work all day and it is absolutely necessary to proper diagnosis, and to save you money if we get the WHOLE story, even if it may be an embarrassing situation (started the project yourself and can't finish - or what have you).

 

Forgot to add this...
I suggest you get this issue properly diagnosed but if you end up getting a clutch sometime down the road...

(My opinion obviously, from personal experience)
Don't get the lightened flywheel for daily driving. I almost hate mine, unless I'm driving some fun roads.
Also, from what I understand all after market clutch discs create extra driveline noise. I only have first hand experience with the ACT but it made it significantly louder on deceleration. It is recommended to use the updated Honda disc if you want to keep it quiet. Love the feel of the ACT pressure plate but at the very least I will be swapping to the Honda disc, if not swapping back to OEM flywheel at the same time.

For reference:
Book time for clutch job in the S would go as follows:
- 6 hours (~$600 depending on the shop rate)
+ machine flywheel (~$75 (Only added if you keep the OEM flywheel, which I'd recommend))
+ clutch kit of choice ($600-$2000+ depending on your wants/needs)
+ applicable taxes.

 

Thanks s2ksean. Well i really suck at explaining man lolz. The only i can tell about my problem is a guy who have experieced on s2k. Yeah i really wanted to get a oem clutch with ap1 flywheel. Everyone loves that set up. Well as of for now i wiill get my clutch fluid change, brake and coolant. See what happen. I wish i could take it to someone and get it diagnose or something.

 

Also i forgot to add, do i really need to change my flywheel if i get my clutch done?