I have a set of te37rt in these specs for sale. Check my IG <-- shameless plug lol

 

Your shop is wrong. The offset bushings physically pull the UCA in towards the inside of the car, which also pulls the top of the wheel in about 6-8mm. This is a direct before/after of an install of a UCA with them. It gives you a pretty good idea how much of a difference they make.



I strongly encourage anyone running aggressive non-staggered wheels to run these up front. They single-handedly solve all your problems with virtually no downsides. You get to retain the OEM ball joints, and you're not adding an aftermarket ball joint that can come lose and shift position. The only real downside is that if you ever go back to conservative wheel specs it's possible for the inside of the wheel to make contact with the upper inner area of the car. Chances are if you've done this much work to fit a specific set of wheels you're not ever going back. Here's a couple pictures showing you how the the wheels fit after the bushing install. You can see how the front now sits under the fender in a similar position to how the rear wheels do rather than bulge past the fender.

 

How about 40 offset vs the 45? The 40 offset bulge out more?

 

@black cx
255+40 is very aggressive I'd say. Even at the rear it gets pretty flush which is to say the front will have a large amount of poke. Without offset upper control arm setup of some kind +40 requires a moderate pull at the front. Maybe not enough that the fender is completely flared but enough that it has obviously deformed from OEM. If that's not desired then you'll need to offset the upper control arm some how.

@Feezy
How much camber are you running in those pics? Picked up a set of 17x10+48 and looking at offset bushings. With my current setup I barely have enough space so will need to make some more. I would aim for similar fitment to your pics, at least at the tire tread; 255 +48 vs +47 offset, though expect more poke with the wheel width.

 

I'm running -2.8 all around.