18" question
I know there are lots of guys running 18" wheels on their S2ks. I would prefer to buy a set of 17" AP2V1s, but I found a set of 18" that look like they would work:
Front: 18"x7.5". Cast aluminum-alloy. Bolt pattern 5x114.3 Offset +45
Tires: Bridgestone Potenza RE050A P225/50R18 95W
Rear: 18"x8.5". Cast aluminum-alloy. Bolt pattern 5x114.3 Offset +50
Tires: Bridgestone Potenza RE050A P245/45R18 96W
BUT I do not want to do anything to OE fenders. I know there are lots of opinions, but anybody care to make an informed guess as to whether or not these would work. I'm OK with spacers if necessary. Thanks.
Front: 18"x7.5". Cast aluminum-alloy. Bolt pattern 5x114.3 Offset +45
Tires: Bridgestone Potenza RE050A P225/50R18 95W
Rear: 18"x8.5". Cast aluminum-alloy. Bolt pattern 5x114.3 Offset +50
Tires: Bridgestone Potenza RE050A P245/45R18 96W
BUT I do not want to do anything to OE fenders. I know there are lots of opinions, but anybody care to make an informed guess as to whether or not these would work. I'm OK with spacers if necessary. Thanks.
Tire specs are completely wrong.
The wheel specs might work at stock ride height but if you want to lower the car at all the fronts would likely need a roll.
Spacers will only make things worse.
The wheel specs might work at stock ride height but if you want to lower the car at all the fronts would likely need a roll.
Spacers will only make things worse.
Wheel specs are fine, tire specs are not. For no fender modification, you would need to run a 215/40/18 on the 18x7.5+45, and a 245/35/18 on the 18x8.5+50.
The tires on those wheels are 2 series higher in aspect ratio than the vehicle is intended to use. The overall diameter of the tire is too large. Speedometer would be off, car would be noticeably higher off the ground, and the higher sidewall would increase the potential of impacting the fender during compression- even at stock height.
The tires on those wheels are 2 series higher in aspect ratio than the vehicle is intended to use. The overall diameter of the tire is too large. Speedometer would be off, car would be noticeably higher off the ground, and the higher sidewall would increase the potential of impacting the fender during compression- even at stock height.
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If you run sticky summer rubber and do spirited driving with cambered roads, you will likely compress your OEM suspension enough while the wheels are turned and damage those fenders with those specs. Going up driveways with the wheels turned will also be risky.
Those specs absolutely need a roll up front.
FWIW, i got stock OEM AP2v2s with 2.5 degrees of camber to rub on the fender liner while driving on track.
And concerning the spacer comment- running spacers would be the opposite of what you would want to do. 7.5+45 & 8.5+50 are practically flush with the factory fenders, spacers would relocate those wheels outside of the fender line, requiring pulling/rolling/flaring based on spacer width. Spacers are used to decrease offset, so they make a higher offset wheel lower. That is why spacers are often used on oem wheels.
False. You will damage your fenders if you run into any sort of compression with your wheels turned.
If you run sticky summer rubber and do spirited driving with cambered roads, you will likely compress your OEM suspension enough while the wheels are turned and damage those fenders with those specs. Going up driveways with the wheels turned will also be risky.
Those specs absolutely need a roll up front.
FWIW, i got stock OEM AP2v2s with 2.5 degrees of camber to rub on the fender liner while driving on track.
If you run sticky summer rubber and do spirited driving with cambered roads, you will likely compress your OEM suspension enough while the wheels are turned and damage those fenders with those specs. Going up driveways with the wheels turned will also be risky.
Those specs absolutely need a roll up front.
FWIW, i got stock OEM AP2v2s with 2.5 degrees of camber to rub on the fender liner while driving on track.
what tire size are you running on the ap2v2?











