2007 coilover/lowering question
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 100
From: San Francisco
So, are the Bilsteins better than stock AP1 dampers/springs for light track duties if the car will be a street car for 90% of the time?
Or are the Bilsteins for looks only?
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 8,751
Likes: 1,855
Bilstein is a superior shock to your worn ap1 stuff.
If it was brand new ap1 suspension (if you have a super low miles car or bought super low mile used shocks), it might be argued that although superior, it might not be worth the expense for street use. You could just get good quality lowering springs.
But since your shocks are probably not in new shape, Bilstein would be an excellent choice.
The Ohlins actually ride better on street (and of course perform better on track) than the Bilsteins. If you have the cash, they are superior in all aspects (except for longevity. If you will rack up lots of street miles, stay with the Bilsteins, unless you also don't mind the expense and downtime involved in frequent rebuilds).
Lowering one inch won't require any radical fender rolling or special alignment components. You will end up wearing out your axle cups faster, so when they eventually start complaining, rotate the axle cups left and right. Then once they complain again, get axle spacers. Then you can get one more rotation with the spacers.
If it was brand new ap1 suspension (if you have a super low miles car or bought super low mile used shocks), it might be argued that although superior, it might not be worth the expense for street use. You could just get good quality lowering springs.
But since your shocks are probably not in new shape, Bilstein would be an excellent choice.
The Ohlins actually ride better on street (and of course perform better on track) than the Bilsteins. If you have the cash, they are superior in all aspects (except for longevity. If you will rack up lots of street miles, stay with the Bilsteins, unless you also don't mind the expense and downtime involved in frequent rebuilds).
Lowering one inch won't require any radical fender rolling or special alignment components. You will end up wearing out your axle cups faster, so when they eventually start complaining, rotate the axle cups left and right. Then once they complain again, get axle spacers. Then you can get one more rotation with the spacers.
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 13,625
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From: Seattle WA
I love my Ohlin's and if the cost difference isn't an issue I would do Ohlins. Car I haven't really seen anything about frequent rebuilds with the ohlins have you? I know KW's need rebuilds pretty regularly. Even if you have to rebuild them occasionally I would still go with the Ohlins but for the money the Billsteins are a solid choice.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 6,358
Likes: 31
From: Phoenix, AZ
Are the Bilstein better than stock (AP1) for the track? I'm interested as well and my car will see very minimum track days, I just won't get the stickiest tires.
Would the Ohlins be considered as jarring/overkill on the streets? (They also seem to be x2 expensive!)
Thanks!
Would the Ohlins be considered as jarring/overkill on the streets? (They also seem to be x2 expensive!)
Thanks!
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 6,358
Likes: 31
From: Phoenix, AZ
IIRC, those indents are only sufficient depth when running 20-25mm spacers. Fairly certain 25mm requires a roll- maybe even 20mm. The factory indents are fairly useless.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 94
Likes: 26
Bilstein is a superior shock to your worn ap1 stuff.
If it was brand new ap1 suspension (if you have a super low miles car or bought super low mile used shocks), it might be argued that although superior, it might not be worth the expense for street use. You could just get good quality lowering springs.
But since your shocks are probably not in new shape, Bilstein would be an excellent choice.
The Ohlins actually ride better on street (and of course perform better on track) than the Bilsteins. If you have the cash, they are superior in all aspects (except for longevity. If you will rack up lots of street miles, stay with the Bilsteins, unless you also don't mind the expense and downtime involved in frequent rebuilds).
Lowering one inch won't require any radical fender rolling or special alignment components. You will end up wearing out your axle cups faster, so when they eventually start complaining, rotate the axle cups left and right. Then once they complain again, get axle spacers. Then you can get one more rotation with the spacers.
If it was brand new ap1 suspension (if you have a super low miles car or bought super low mile used shocks), it might be argued that although superior, it might not be worth the expense for street use. You could just get good quality lowering springs.
But since your shocks are probably not in new shape, Bilstein would be an excellent choice.
The Ohlins actually ride better on street (and of course perform better on track) than the Bilsteins. If you have the cash, they are superior in all aspects (except for longevity. If you will rack up lots of street miles, stay with the Bilsteins, unless you also don't mind the expense and downtime involved in frequent rebuilds).
Lowering one inch won't require any radical fender rolling or special alignment components. You will end up wearing out your axle cups faster, so when they eventually start complaining, rotate the axle cups left and right. Then once they complain again, get axle spacers. Then you can get one more rotation with the spacers.
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 100
From: San Francisco
I love my Ohlin's and if the cost difference isn't an issue I would do Ohlins. Car I haven't really seen anything about frequent rebuilds with the ohlins have you? I know KW's need rebuilds pretty regularly. Even if you have to rebuild them occasionally I would still go with the Ohlins but for the money the Billsteins are a solid choice.
Mazda contracted KW to build a set of V3 with specific spring rates and dampening force specific for the Mazdaspeed 3, these V3 were rebranded as "Mazdaspeed Accessory Coilovers"
I purchased a used set and put them on my Mazdaspeed 3. Unfortunately, shortly after I installed them, they had to be rebuilt.
- Contact KW support / info@kwsuspensions.com
- Fill out the tech sheet to your desire
- Ship your damaged dampers in. They asked for the dampers only as the shipping will cost less, and there are less parts for them to lose.
- Depending on your location, takes about a few days to get to their USA headquarters, in Southern California.
- They kept me updated on the rebuild process, and will promptly answer any inquiry along the way.
- My rebuild took ~1.5 weeks, round trip shipping... so the whole process took about 3 weeks.
Here's an example of the tech sheet they'd ask you to fill out:
At the time, my car had 64,000 miles. It's approaching 5 years and 43,000 miles since the rebuild, and I have had zero issues. Car currently has ~107,000 miles. This car is daily driven on the streets of San Francisco, with its expansive collection of bad roads and pot holes!
I believe the rebuild process should be similar with other major manufacturers, and they should be equally competent as well!
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 100
From: San Francisco
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 100
From: San Francisco
yes, the pss9 are still better than factory. Off the shelf Ohlins aren't jarring- they come with 10k front, 8k rear spring rates. Not exactly soft, but not jarring either- unless local roadways are rough. The Bilsteins are better suited for street (softer rate) and are cheaper, plus there is no preload, so install is easier. Most don't know how to properly set preload, which results in less than optimal handling. If you went the route of Bilstein now and did decide you wanted stiffer later, sending them to Fat Cat Motorsports for a revalve paired with new springs will net you a better setup than ots Ohlins.
