Manga_Spawn

Just looking at those pictures I would bet they are rubbing in the front you just can't hear it over the supercharger and everything else. It is funny to me that someone that supercharged the car and did a ton of other major mods but is worried about rolling the fenders. Those tire sizes are flat out not safe. You need 215/40/18 front, 245/35/18 rear or 225/40/18 front, 255/35/18 like nate said. The previous owner sounds like a moron since he even got the tire sizes wrong that he was going to put on there and a 40 series sidewall would have caused even more issues.

Figure out what the offsets are. We also need to know if there is a spacer on the front that is allowing brake clearance. If there is a spacer we need to know how thick it is since that changes the front offset. It would also be helpful to know what model the wilwood kit is since the ones I have seen fit in a 17 inch wheel but they may have a larger kit that requires an 18 inch wheel.

At the end of the day however I would roll the fenders and buy new wheels. 18's only make sense if you are going much wider than the 255 which is doable with rolled fenders. Otherwise you are paying more per tire for no real benefit (again knowing more about the brake kit will help here).

4Sho

Well i bought the car as you see it... This was the previous owner's set up. I honestly really like the wheels, and i don't want to roll the fenders. So i will find out about the offset of the wheels at some point today and post it. Also i know that there are no spacers behind any of the wheels. and I will link the wildwood kit here. The seller told me that the 18" wheels were necessary because the oems just wouldn't fit. I'd really like to stay away from rolling the fenders if possible/buying new wheels... but after i find out the offset and i have no other choice then i guess i will pick one or the other...

BBK link:
Front Brakes:

http://www.enjukurac...-NEcBoCvWzw_wcB



Rear Brakes:

http://www.evasivemo...ry_Code=Wilwood

1nate7

You are inheriting someone's strange choice to add power/brakes but decrease the single most important thing - tires. I'd make getting at least 225/255 tires my priority. I can almost guarantee they will rub with your current wheels. As mentioned, the car is already modified and rolling the fenders is not a big deal when done right.

Stock wheels might not clear but there are 17" options that will. Now is a good time to decide if you want to keep wheels someone else picked or get your own. Nothing against RE30, I actually like them a lot. It seems the previous owner just liked throwing parts on the car with no clear goal, luckily they are quality so you could get a decent return if you change things up.

1nate7

Just to clarify, wheel diameter is not the clearance problem. The issue is spoke clearance. Regardless of 17" or 18", the wheel has to be spaced out far enough to clear the caliper yet not rub on the fenders. Almost impossible with 225/255 tires which is why I HIGHLY recommend doing it.

4Sho

ok cool nate... lets say that i get a set of new wheels... for a second lets forget about all the brands and what not and only focus on the clearance of the brakes and the no rolling of the fenders issue. What set up would be ideal if i decide to buy new rims and tires. can you give me 2 setups as ideal setups, one for 17" rims and the other for 18"? I would really like to avoid rolling the fenders tbh.

B serious

I don't know that you're going to get into a decent wheel/tire size with a BBK...and stock fenders...and be lowered on very soft springs....with shocks that have an easier bump curve than stock.

Fenders can be successfully rolled very easily. Or pay someone to do it. As long as you're not driving in the winter...and you properly rust proof any areas that see chips underneath the car...you're fine.

I rolled my own fender lips 10 years ago.

My current wheel size is 17x10 +50 with 255's all around.

But...a common BBK friendly size in quite a few wheels is 17x9 +45. You may need some small amount of camber increase via upper joints to clear the front fenders. The rears will clear via the stock adjusters.

Figure about -2.5ish degrees of camber.

1nate7

For a typical 8"/9" staggered setup on stock body, you need at least +55 offset and possibly even higher since you are lowered. I'm not really an expert on BBK clearance, but if you look at this chart you will see the ONLY wheel that works with the offset you need is the TSW Nurburgring 17x9 +63.

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/3388...spoon-calipers

That is why I recommend rolling the fenders. You have to compromise somewhere, it's up to you where.

4Sho

I see. Those springs and strut combo is not very soft tbh. I drove this car 2500 miles to bring it home with me and i must say some roads were bad... the freeways i mean. And i did not scrape once doing 75+ mph. The rear trust are on max stiffness. The fronts are 3/4 way there, and honestly i did think that i will bottom out but i never did once. So if i have no other but to roll the fenders even if i do get new wheels then i rather just roll the fenders and keep the same wheels. And for me to have that done professionally I'm gonna have to wait until i go to a better state, since i live in north dakota which truck county out here I'm one of the few rebels who say no to trucks loll. Any who if i roll my fenders I'm sure 225/255 setup would work. and thats a lot of camber no? but if thats what it takes i guess...

4Sho

I see. Now if you roll the fenders on a s2k how do you go about keeping the fender lining intact and not lets any water in there? and how would some one go about moving those screws there... and if i a pay a professional to do this for all 4 corners, how much am i possibly looking at? thanks

B serious

it takes a lot for the car to actually scrape on the ground, if that's what you mean. that would be a huge dip...or something in the center of the car.

and the wheels/tyres won't scrape because, as you said, they clear the fenders.

stiffening Koni yellows will make the spring harder to expand...not contract. they're rebound adjustable. there is no bump adjustment. The springs, I'd venture, are comparable to stock in terms of rate (+ or -). stiffening the shocks all the way will make the car MORE liable to scrape...and the harshness you felt was likely the bumpstops, which are active quite a bit since Koni yellows *I believe* have slightly less compression travel than stock shocks. The stock shocks have external reservoirs...but are monotube. So maybe total travel is a tossup.

But a 1.5" drop is bumpstop city either way. Unless the springs are MASSIVELY stiff. They're not.

I would loosen the adjuster a bit. clockwise is full soft, BTW.

Hope I'm not coming off as anything but helpful.