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Hey guys I just recently purchased a set of CE28 mounted on Dunlop's 255/40 square set up and the wheels are 17x9:F and 17x9.5:R offsets are unknown but they look like they're around the +38 theyare poking out. I am sitting on buddy club coilovers and i wanted to see what camber setting would be ideal for function both street and track w/o modifying the fenders too crazy. I'm thinking of doing a pull at the most.
Agreed, those look like +38 to +35 offsets. The rears you can get to tuck with some finite trimming/rolling and bumper tab relocate and about -3 to -3.5 camber which isn't ideal for the street but it will work. 245 would be better to be able to dial the camber back a bit to around a more ideal -2.5. But the front is going to be the real issue. Your maxed at about -2 with your ride height and stock camber adjusters. I wouldn't run more then that on the street anyway. That said, Id remove the front tires and sell them before you cut them up anymore and ruin your front fenders, or save them and run in the rear when the current rears wear out. Id get a pair of 235/40's on there and gain some leniency. 235/245 stagger on a 9/9.5 is reasonable. Or if your into pushing it, keep the 255 in the rears and gain some camber wear and poorer street performance.
Last edited by s2000Junky; Mar 28, 2018 at 10:57 PM.
Sell those and buy wheels that actually fit. Might lose money but it'll save you time and headaches, and you'll be able to set the car up with fewer compromises
The offset should be stamped on the back of the wheel face. Most volks have a sticker with the wheel specs on them as well in the barrel. The fronts could be +45 (or in the 40's) the rears looks like they are in the 30's. I agree on running a 245 (or 235 even a 225 isn't horrible but it will be a bit stretched) in front that would at least give you a little more space. I assume your fenders are already rolled flat and tabs relocated but yeah you need more camber. First take the wheels off and figure out the offset. You can try to pull the fronts some but it starts getting really hard to keep it looking even. Junky's post has good camber recommendations.
Agreed, those look like +38 to +35 offsets. The rears you can get to tuck with some finite trimming/rolling and bumper tab relocate and about -3 to -3.5 camber which isn't ideal for the street but it will work. 245 would be better to be able to dial the camber back a bit to around a more ideal -2.5. But the front is going to be the real issue. Your maxed at about -2 with your ride height and stock camber adjusters. I wouldn't run more then that on the street anyway. That said, Id remove the front tires and sell them before you cut them up anymore and ruin your front fenders, or save them and run in the rear when the current rears wear out. Id get a pair of 235/40's on there and gain some leniency. 235/245 stagger on a 9/9.5 is reasonable. Or if your into pushing it, keep the 255 in the rears and gain some camber wear and poorer street performance.
I guess the only way to fit these is to do some pull on the fenders. That's if I wanted to still run the 255s
QUOTE=Manga_Spawn;24439631]The offset should be stamped on the back of the wheel face. Most volks have a sticker with the wheel specs on them as well in the barrel. The fronts could be +45 (or in the 40's) the rears looks like they are in the 30's. I agree on running a 245 (or 235 even a 225 isn't horrible but it will be a bit stretched) in front that would at least give you a little more space. I assume your fenders are already rolled flat and tabs relocated but yeah you need more camber. First take the wheels off and figure out the offset. You can try to pull the fronts some but it starts getting really hard to keep it looking even. Junky's post has good camber recommendations.[/QUOTE]
Unfortunately there's no offsets stamped in the back. Rays would typically have the stickers but the previous owner of this wheels have the powdercoated, the wheel size (diameter and width) are stamped in the back
Won't it cost a lot more to make the car fit the wheels than to get wheels that fit the car. Have to run lots of camber(lousy tire wear) cutting of fenders, pulling fenders and the possibility of screwed up the fenders from the tires hitting them or from a bad roll job on the fenders. You could sell your wheels to offset the cost of new wheels so your not out much if any money and have a car that looks and drives great.
Hm that’s odd that they only have diameter and width. I think they usually have diamter width bolt pattern and offset stamped on the wheel.
The offsets are on the stickers, and bolt pattern stamps are in the face of the wheel along with the brand and made in japan. The offset info are in the stickers typically as far as i know. Unfortunately there's no stickers on them since they've been powder coated so i just guesstimated the offsets
Won't it cost a lot more to make the car fit the wheels than to get wheels that fit the car. Have to run lots of camber(lousy tire wear) cutting of fenders, pulling fenders and the possibility of screwed up the fenders from the tires hitting them or from a bad roll job on the fenders. You could sell your wheels to offset the cost of new wheels so your not out much if any money and have a car that looks and drives great.
ROD
You got a point there. But I figure if i can get some people to chime in on the set up and if it's possible to run similar set up on a stock body (with a roll and minor pull) w/o running lots of camber and stay functional.
Camber suggestions
