Those are konigs right, just get them in a 17 or 18 and def. get a wider tire than 225. We sell konig wheels at my shop and there not bad at all for the price. Work's, Volks, Enkei, etc are all really nice but your gonna destroy your wheels pretty quickly on the streets if you daily drive anyway, why pay 3 grand. You can buy three or four sets of the cheaper wheels for one set of Work's. Unless you track the car or show it, running a less expensive wheel makes absolutely no difference. If you like them, get em. Here's a shot of my 120 a piece konigs. Getting ready to swap for the new Deception wheels at 160 a wheel. I get compliments on them all the time.

 

Problem is you're riding 1"-2" higher than stock (than the factory planned for the AP1), changing the handling dynamics. How much, I don't know but I would stay w/ 16". And I don't understand the big wheels fad anyway. I feel like we're going backwards. The MG TC had 19" in 1945! What's next, go w/ really narrow rims like the TC (2.5")

 

Putting larger wheels on a car doesnt mean you are going to be lifting it up. When buying tires you just get something that will have the same diameter overall.

 

Okay, can you tell me why not? What am I missing? If the rim is taller that would make the center of the wheel and the point where it attaches to the car higher, thus increasing the ride height. And I'm talking about not changing anything else with the car such as spring height, etc. just putting larger wheels on the car.

 

The only reason that I am considering 17" wheels is the selection of tire sizes is better. I can no longer get a 245/25X16 tire in anything but a $230 race tire. I am even considering 17" wheels for the Pantera - just try to find a tire for 15X11 wheels.

 

For instance, on my OEM 16'' wheels the tires are something like 225/40/16 the '40' represents tire thickness or tire wall height. When you switch to a 17 we al assume you will put a 245/30/17 (for instance) tire on that wheel. The tire sidewall will shrink in height while the wheel itself grows to match the space difference. Less side wall=more handeling dynamic

 

Some other options are either the TSW Nurnburgring wheels which are forged wheels and look nice but aren't to pricey and TSW makes another forged wheel but I forget the names. I have no issues with rotas or any other budget wheel just saying it is always better to hold off and get what you actually want because changing out you cheap wheels 4 times costs the same as buying on moderately expensive set of wheels. I agree that the super expensive stuff doesn't really make sense for a daily driven car but there are wheels out there that fall in the middle. Good luck and let us know what you find!

 

When you upgrade wheel size you have to buy new tires. You get tires with a shorter sidewall to maintain the same outside diameter.


If you're getting aftermarket rims I see no reason to buy 16s. Keep it stock or save your money until you can buy 17s and some nice tires while you're at it.

 

For instance, on my OEM 16'' wheels the tires are something like 225/40/16 the '40' represents tire thickness or tire wall height. When you switch to a 17 we al assume you will put a 245/30/17 (for instance) tire on that wheel. The tire sidewall will shrink in height while the wheel itself grows to match the space difference. Less side wall=more handeling dynamic
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Okay, so getting tires with a lower aspect ratio, I can understand that. But hopefully you can find them that will make the tires for the bigger wheels that are the same overall diameter. This tire size calculator is a good way to find what you need. If you step up to a 17" wheel and keeping the tire width the same (i.e. 225) then you'd need to go with a 45 series instead of the 50 series tire to keep the overall diameter the same.

 

I personally am a big fan of Rota wheels, they have some really nice setups and the prices are pretty good for a moderate budget. I'm throwing some DTP's or G-Force's on this winter-spring ish...