The heat gun is really important when rolling so the paint does not chip. It took us a little over an hour, always easier with two people!

 

cuonice, I'm not rubbing yet because I am still waiting on one tire to be mounted. I wanted to make sure I was safe before damaging my fenders.

Yarbrough, I figured that the heat gun was the key and that was where most people went wrong.

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

Im running +48 with a 255/40-17 ...i only rubbed alittle bit with about a finger gap...i dont see how you should need too much rolling

 

Really? How much camber are you running? What about spring rates?

 

Patience and the heat gun are the most important things about rolling the rear fenders. I recently did the rears to accomodate my 285's. One fender came out perfect, the other I cracked the paint because I didnt have enough heat on it.

When you think you've got so much heat that its gonna melt the paint........keep it on!!!

 

How do you know when you've got enough heat? Is it easy to go too far and melt the paint?

 

It will roll pretty easily............just take your time........I never melted the paint so I dont know how far it would take to do that.

I assume your gonna do it with a fender roller, dont know if you've seen this, but its good info.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=...erID=140&KICKER

 

Just keep it hot enough that you can't keep the back of your fingers on it for more than a quick touch... if that makes sense. Me and cuonice did mine the first time around and they came out perfect, but when I messed with mine the second time I cracked the paint a little. When you get the roller on there it's really easy to be focusing on one section of the fender that you've just heated up, and then once you finish that spot just swing it around through the whole arch of the fender to smooth everything together. That's what messed me up... that I had only heated up that small section of the fender and then I swung it around to a section with cold paint and the paint instantly cracked.

Like everyone said, TAKE YOUR TIME and make sure every spot the roller touches is nice and hot, and you shouldn't have any trouble at all.

 

I was just looking at the service manual and it looks like rear camber is adjusted on the lower control arm. In order to increase negative camber you essentially push the lower control arm out more. What this means in my head is that you really get next to no increased fender clearance by increasing negative camber.

 

You will get a slight increase in fender clearance since the wheel will be rotating about the upper outer ball joint and the top of the tire will move inward.

I had a "professional" roll my fenders and I was NOT happy with the outcome. They were uneven in some places and pulled more than I had wanted. I wanted it to look stock afterwards but there was a noticeable pull. I would suggest cutting the inner fender part (there was a recent thread with a Spa s2000 on RPF1s who cut the fender as opposed to rolling). This guarantees it'll look stock (as long as you don't cut too much).

Another option is do to it your self and take your time and have a friend help with the heat gun. Search on YouTube about the technique and take your time. You probably don't need much of a roll so roll as little as you can (reduce the force you use so it won't deform the fender outwards) and check it. Then repeat if you need more clearance...it'll be worth it when the fender comes out stock looking.