Need Help!
Yes the fitment guide "just" gives numbers but those number are vital to understanding why cars look the way they do and allow you to not just blindly buy wheels. You would be blindly buying wheels if you just went off the look in pictures. Your OP stated that you did not want to mod the fenders and then every single picture you posted was of a car with modified fenders (and most very poorly modified). Then when asked if you read the fitment guide you simply stated "nope." If you are new to this you need to understand the measurements and at the very least have an idea as to why those measurements make something either fit, need work to fit, or not fit at all. We are trying to help but you aren't giving us much to do off of besides a picture. We can guess what was done to make them fit but it may not be right.
The post above is a step in the right direction. With both the specs and the picture we can give better direction as to what is needed to fit those wheels. You would need to roll the fenders, relocate the tabs, and run slightly more camber for them to fit. Also you should be able to easily fit a 255 on the 18x10 +55.
The post above is a step in the right direction. With both the specs and the picture we can give better direction as to what is needed to fit those wheels. You would need to roll the fenders, relocate the tabs, and run slightly more camber for them to fit. Also you should be able to easily fit a 255 on the 18x10 +55.
Yes the fitment guide "just" gives numbers but those number are vital to understanding why cars look the way they do and allow you to not just blindly buy wheels. You would be blindly buying wheels if you just went off the look in pictures. Your OP stated that you did not want to mod the fenders and then every single picture you posted was of a car with modified fenders (and most very poorly modified). Then when asked if you read the fitment guide you simply stated "nope." If you are new to this you need to understand the measurements and at the very least have an idea as to why those measurements make something either fit, need work to fit, or not fit at all. We are trying to help but you aren't giving us much to do off of besides a picture. We can guess what was done to make them fit but it may not be right.
The post above is a step in the right direction. With both the specs and the picture we can give better direction as to what is needed to fit those wheels. You would need to roll the fenders, relocate the tabs, and run slightly more camber for them to fit. Also you should be able to easily fit a 255 on the 18x10 +55.
The post above is a step in the right direction. With both the specs and the picture we can give better direction as to what is needed to fit those wheels. You would need to roll the fenders, relocate the tabs, and run slightly more camber for them to fit. Also you should be able to easily fit a 255 on the 18x10 +55.
Camber. Not chamber. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle
Do you know what relocating the tabs involves? You don't drill into the frame and it is the most common spot for rubbing issues. I have rolled a bunch of fenders and know what I am talking about but good luck do as you will.
Do you know what relocating the tabs involves? You don't drill into the frame and it is the most common spot for rubbing issues. I have rolled a bunch of fenders and know what I am talking about but good luck do as you will.
Camber. Not chamber. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle
Do you know what relocating the tabs involves? You don't drill into the frame and it is the most common spot for rubbing issues. I have rolled a bunch of fenders and know what I am talking about but good luck do as you will.
Do you know what relocating the tabs involves? You don't drill into the frame and it is the most common spot for rubbing issues. I have rolled a bunch of fenders and know what I am talking about but good luck do as you will.
The guy did get back to me and yup he camber the car and rolled fender with a slight flair. Sigh.... Now I really understand why people just leave their stock rims on their car, the trouble and nerve-racking things you got to do in order to get an eye popping(good looking) setup. It's damn near impossible!
Relocating the rear bumper tab is just part of a proper fender roll. All you are doing is moving the attachment point of the rear bumper cover/quarter panel further back. Lowering the car will naturally increase negative camber as you have changed the suspension geometry. There is a range of adjustment available, shouldn't be an issue unless you slam the car.
Yes, it takes some work but you don't have to "chop" up your car to get nice results. If you get a good fender roll then you shouldn't even be able to tell anything was done without looking at the inside. This is a common enough practice that there is probably a professional in your area that could get good results.
Lowering springs: $200 - $300
Professional fender roll: $150 - 200
Alignment: $50-$100
It's not that difficult and will get you 90% of the "look" of the cars you pictured.
Yes, it takes some work but you don't have to "chop" up your car to get nice results. If you get a good fender roll then you shouldn't even be able to tell anything was done without looking at the inside. This is a common enough practice that there is probably a professional in your area that could get good results.
Lowering springs: $200 - $300
Professional fender roll: $150 - 200
Alignment: $50-$100
It's not that difficult and will get you 90% of the "look" of the cars you pictured.
Relocating the rear bumper tab is just part of a proper fender roll. All you are doing is moving the attachment point of the rear bumper cover/quarter panel further back. Lowering the car will naturally increase negative camber as you have changed the suspension geometry. There is a range of adjustment available, shouldn't be an issue unless you slam the car.
Yes, it takes some work but you don't have to "chop" up your car to get nice results. If you get a good fender roll then you shouldn't even be able to tell anything was done without looking at the inside. This is a common enough practice that there is probably a professional in your area that could get good results.
Lowering springs: $200 - $300
Professional fender roll: $150 - 200
Alignment: $50-$100
It's not that difficult and will get you 90% of the "look" of the cars you pictured.
Yes, it takes some work but you don't have to "chop" up your car to get nice results. If you get a good fender roll then you shouldn't even be able to tell anything was done without looking at the inside. This is a common enough practice that there is probably a professional in your area that could get good results.
Lowering springs: $200 - $300
Professional fender roll: $150 - 200
Alignment: $50-$100
It's not that difficult and will get you 90% of the "look" of the cars you pictured.
No I am not in TN but I have rolled a bunch of these fenders and know what I am talking about. You do not. It's not meant as an insult simply and observation. You don't even understand the basics of alignment adjustments or wheel specs or the fender rolling process. You need to really read and understand these thugs before you even look at wheels.
The alignment specs for instance don't just allow some extra clearance for wheels but it can also effect how the car handles. The s2000 has a lot of adjustability from the factory in these specs so no you don't have to change out lots of suspension parts to adjust the camber of the car. If the numbers don't make sense there is plenty of videos on YouTube explaining exactly what camber, caster and toe means.
As for the tab relo you and literally just putting a screw further back. It is invisible and very easy to do and again the bumper tab is the first place for the rear where you can rub. I will say you are already ahead of the game because you asked questions before you just went out and bought wheels like so many people do. Don't rush. Go meet some other s2000 owners. Look at their fenders and have them explain what was done. Ideally look and ones the local did so you can see his work. There is always a risk with rolling them but someone that knows what they are doing can minimize that risk.
The alignment specs for instance don't just allow some extra clearance for wheels but it can also effect how the car handles. The s2000 has a lot of adjustability from the factory in these specs so no you don't have to change out lots of suspension parts to adjust the camber of the car. If the numbers don't make sense there is plenty of videos on YouTube explaining exactly what camber, caster and toe means.
As for the tab relo you and literally just putting a screw further back. It is invisible and very easy to do and again the bumper tab is the first place for the rear where you can rub. I will say you are already ahead of the game because you asked questions before you just went out and bought wheels like so many people do. Don't rush. Go meet some other s2000 owners. Look at their fenders and have them explain what was done. Ideally look and ones the local did so you can see his work. There is always a risk with rolling them but someone that knows what they are doing can minimize that risk.
Originally Posted by Stoic' timestamp='1431657446' post='23613486
[quote name='1nate7' timestamp='1431608355' post='23612597']
You can get around 2" lip up front and 3" lip in the rear on a stock body WITH a fender roll.
You can get around 2" lip up front and 3" lip in the rear on a stock body WITH a fender roll.

that guy mauled the shit out of his fenders (you can look at the front and see the disproportioned shape there) and there's a lot of stretch on those tires. Is that what you're looking to do?
Have you reviewed the Wheel Fitment Guide sticky?
Have you reviewed the Wheel Fitment Guide sticky?
[/quote]
Alright, thats a picture of my car and I just wanna clear some things up.
Yes, my fender was damaged slightly here (not from those wheels), and my lip was broken, my car has seen hell.. I drive it, alot. but that was a somewhat conservative setup. 17x8.5 and 17x9.5 with offsets in the high +30s. The rears had some stretch I guess? (225/45F 245/40R) and I was running modest negative camber.
OP, it is very hard to get deep dish or deep concave wheels on this car without work. The car was simply not designed that way. The proper way to do it would be to get wider fenders but even those will not allow crazy wide and low offsets. A common wheel size without going crazy on your fenders or with camber is 17x9 +45, with a proper sized tire (245/255). You can take that number and insert it into this calculator and manipulate it to see what other widths and offsets you could use when looking at wheels. www.willtheyfit.com
Also, take this thread as a lesson on the internet. This car was designed to handle, and do it well. Some, or alot of people here get their panties in a wad when people slam their cars or put on wheels that don't properly fit (its not their car
Truthfully I don't care what look you are trying to go for unless I feel it is flat out dangerous then I will advise against it but even then its your car so have at it. What does get my panties in a bundle is when someone doesn't have any knowledge on a subject, asks an incomplete question and then responds like they know what they are talking about and gets defensive and eventually combative because they take the responses as attacks on their person. That is annoying as hell. The wheels on my car are far beyond what most people on this forum would consider fitting but I did the work to make them fit and I am not doing more work to allow wider fronts to fit. I have rolled tons of fenders. Hundreds at this point. Everything from super low mile mint cars to cars you would think shouldn't run. I have seen the slammed, hellaflush, track junky, daily driver and everything in between. It is your car but when you ask for help don't get pissy that the answer you get isn't what you were hoping for.
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