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on my old car.. i removed the calipers and painted them after steelwooling them, w/ hightemp gloss black paint,
recently talking to a friend, he said that on his 3.2TL he just taped off everything behind the rotor... (papered between sheild and rotor.. and taped off brake lines and after steelwooling the rust off painted everything,
then after turning 180* and painting the part of rotor covered by caliper he let dry and then drove it, (braking cleaned off the part of the rotor covered in paint,
leaving the CENTER hub=gloss black, the Edge where veins are Gloss Black, and most importantly the entire caliper including the part of pad visible will be Gloss Black.
this seems ideal for me, considering i HATE the way the hub is rusty in front and the Veins always are Burnt Orange Rusty .(new wheels= meister s1=no center cap)
HAS ANYONE DONE THIS, i have no doubt the friction of the pad would remove all the Excess paint on the rotor... but will this hurt anything? besides having shavings falling out for the first few miles, will the uneven transfer of friction on the rotor cause any type of warping, or any other factors i havent taken into mind,
as far as the decreased coolin ability due to the thin layer of paint on the edge of the vein, that doesnt concern me seeing that i never push the car past 60% of what its capable of doing..
I painted my stock rotors and also did the rotors on the car I built. I didn't have any problems. I have since gone to a slotted and drill rotor that was coated.
I painted my claipers with the G3 paint, so it was painted with a brush while still mounted on the car. I have done this twice without issues.
thats what i was wondering friend said the face would scrape off after 15ft of braking.. thus only leaving paint on the surface it doesnt touch=all the rusty part
That is not a good idea. You need to seat the brake pads and that is not going to happen. There is a transfer film that would coat the rotors and all you are going to do is transfer paint onto the pad. I would suggest a brake rotor that is cadium coated and won't rust like the Power slot.
alright, thanx thats what i was thinking but the friend was saying.. nah man itl be fine..
so i guess now ima spend the 4-5hours taping off the HUB/Veins and Caliper to get a good job done. plus maybe 2 hours prep time prior..
itl be worth the time in the end.. on my old car i had the calipers/drum powdercoated gloss black and it was amazing (esp w/ the black wheels i had. didnt stand out like sore thumb.. ultimately the BBK made it look better. i dont feel i need BBK on s2k tho. oe brakes feel amazing