Wheels and Tires Discussion about wheels and tires for the S2000.
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Why Square when Factory Stagger?

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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 09:55 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Originally Posted by ZDan' timestamp='1344435484' post='21921548
Why it makes sense: If you add wide tires up front without changing roll stiffness bias, you aren't fully utilizing that added grip up front.
-Why? Adding a thicker sway bar removes weight transfer and ultimately reduces traction, the point of adding more rubber is to increase traction. Too thick a sway bar and you just canceled out the modification.
Adding a thicker front sway bar doesn't "remove weight transfer". It increases "weight transfer" up front and reduces it in the back. Total "weight transfer" is the same, you're just alleviating the load on the outside rear and increasing the load on the outside front.
Even if you go with "too thick a sway bar", you haven't canceled the mod, you *still* will have more overall grip, it will just be biased more to the rear and you'll get more understeer.

If you take a car that has good handling balance and add a ton of front grip, you're no longer balanced. Bias roll stiffness to the front a bit and you'll still have more grip up front vs. originally, and also have more rear grip. For me, sway bars are *the* way to balance grip after you've got appropriate camber levels and spring rates.
- I agree, but simply saying run a thicker sway bar as an automatic after adding wider front tires is a misnomer, not always is it appropriate, nore does it offer any conclusion of how much thicker would be appropriate.
I mostly agree. I would be more likely to try 255s all around and *then* decide whether to run a stiffer front bar or not, and if so how stiff.

Problem with the S2k is that to go wider than 255 in back, you have to go taller as well, which hurts gearing.
- Not true, the 295/35/17 on the back of my car would state otherwise. These have 20mm added width and the same overall height profile as a 255/40 so no gearing differences.
You mean 40mm added width, per side! Not exactly a popular size, only Kumho XS (poor wet grip) and hardcore Hoosier R-comps come in that size. 295s probably overkill on an NA S! Actually, I see that Hoosier now also has 275/35-17s. Hmmm...

255 up front 295 back /thread
Run the appropriate spring rates and settings on your coilovers and chances are good your not going to find any short comings with the sway bars that came on your S.
Holy CRAP that's a lot of rubber...
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 11:29 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ZDan
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1344530688' post='21924729
[quote name='ZDan' timestamp='1344435484' post='21921548']
Why it makes sense: If you add wide tires up front without changing roll stiffness bias, you aren't fully utilizing that added grip up front.
-Why? Adding a thicker sway bar removes weight transfer and ultimately reduces traction, the point of adding more rubber is to increase traction. Too thick a sway bar and you just canceled out the modification.
Adding a thicker front sway bar doesn't "remove weight transfer".

- Wrong, your reducing G load on the tire with the most grip and maintaining it over the inside wheel which has the least grip, effectively biasing the weight on the least effective side of the car under load. more weight transfer is good for max traction, it isnt good for handling control however, the "right" balance is preferential and so is how much of this balance you want front to back as well as side to side. You’re forgetting what the side to side does I believe in total available traction. For example, Drag cars don’t run stiff suspension in the rear to gain traction, they want maximum weight transfer to the rear of the car meaning less spring weight for traction. The same applies in our case during side load cornering/sway bars.
If you take a car that has good handling balance and add a ton of front grip, you're no longer balanced. Bias roll stiffness to the front a bit and you'll still have more grip up front vs. originally, and also have more rear grip. For me, sway bars are *the* way to balance grip after you've got appropriate camber levels and spring rates.
- I agree, but simply saying run a thicker sway bar as an automatic after adding wider front tires is a misnomer, not always is it appropriate, nore does it offer any conclusion of how much thicker would be appropriate.
I mostly agree. I would be more likely to try 255s all around and *then* decide whether to run a stiffer front bar or not, and if so how stiff.

Problem with the S2k is that to go wider than 255 in back, you have to go taller as well, which hurts gearing.
- Not true, the 295/35/17 on the back of my car would state otherwise. These have 20mm added width and the same overall height profile as a 255/40 so no gearing differences.
You mean 40mm added width, per side! Not exactly a popular size, only Kumho XS (poor wet grip) and hardcore Hoosier R-comps come in that size. 295s probably overkill on an NA S!

-I don’t drive fast nor do I track in the rain, so rain traction means little to me. Yes my mistake 40mm per tire wider. I'm not N/A but am from time to time when the FI has issues, I think I would still choose this size, just from the sheer grip it provides in the corners and not finding any draw backs since the overall gearing hasn’t changed. The XS is actually quite a light tire for its size, coupled with very light wheels RPF1, the over all package is on par with OEM weight.
255 up front 295 back /thread
Run the appropriate spring rates and settings on your coilovers and chances are good your not going to find any short comings with the sway bars that came on your S.
Holy CRAP that's a lot of rubber...
[/quote]
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Originally Posted by ZDan' timestamp='1344534943' post='21924943
Adding a thicker front sway bar doesn't "remove weight transfer".
- Wrong, your reducing G load on the tire with the most grip and maintaining it over the inside wheel which has the least grip, effectively biasing the weight on the least effective side of the car under load.
Um, no, *you're* wrong, and doubly so!
Thicker front sway will transfer MORE load to the outside front, taking more load off of the inside front. This will act to reduce total front grip.

more weight transfer is good for max traction,
No it is not. LESS lateral weight transfer is better for traction. However, total weight transfer is a function of c.g. height and track width only. Lower c.g. and wider track => greater cornering grip.

You can affect how much is reacted up front and how much in the back, though, which allows you to tailor handling balance. Stiffer front bar reacts more of the cornering load *reducing* front grip.

Stiffer front bar => more load on the outside front, less load on the inside front, which reduces total front grip. This is because the load/grip curve is not linear. The additional load on the outside front doesn't give as much lateral grip back vs. what is taken away at the inside front, because the outside front is more highly loaded.

Stiffer front bar => LESS load on the outside rear, MORE load on the inside rear. Which INcreases total rear grip, as the reduced load on the outside rear allows it to make more grip per load, and the inside rear is also able to contribute more additional grip.

-I don’t drive fast nor do I track in the rain, so rain traction means little to me. Yes my mistake 40mm per tire wider. I'm not N/A but am from time to time when the FI has issues, I think I would still choose this size, just from the sheer grip it provides in the corners and not finding any draw backs since the overall gearing hasn’t changed. The XS is actually quite a light tire for its size, coupled with very light wheels RPF1, the over all package is on par with OEM weight.
295/35-17 XS is 32 lb.! The Hoosier tires in that size are pretty light, though
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by spdracerut
Originally Posted by c32b' timestamp='1344492715' post='21923821

What alignment do u run?
Front:
-2.3, 0 toe

Rear:
-2.8, 3/16" toe-in

On the rear, I do get more inside wear than outside. On my next alignment, I'm probably going to go back to 1/8" toe-in on the rear as I've been adjusting my suspension setup and it's a little on the tight side. Going back to 1/8" should help with the rear wear a bit. Right now, the insides of the rears are about bald and I have maybe 2mm of tread left on the outside of the tire. It has been about 8k miles or so since I last rotated front to rear, so the front wear is more even across the width of the tire; i.e. still tread left on the insides.
I think the lesser toe will be something you will like. I run 3.0 all around.

btw, what r ur spring rates?
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 08:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ZDan
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1344540555' post='21925241
[quote name='ZDan' timestamp='1344534943' post='21924943']
Adding a thicker front sway bar doesn't "remove weight transfer".
- Wrong, your reducing G load on the tire with the most grip and maintaining it over the inside wheel which has the least grip, effectively biasing the weight on the least effective side of the car under load.
Um, no, *you're* wrong, and doubly so!
Thicker front sway will transfer MORE load to the outside front, taking more load off of the inside front. This will act to reduce total front grip.

more weight transfer is good for max traction,
No it is not. LESS lateral weight transfer is better for traction. However, total weight transfer is a function of c.g. height and track width only. Lower c.g. and wider track => greater cornering grip.

You can affect how much is reacted up front and how much in the back, though, which allows you to tailor handling balance. Stiffer front bar reacts more of the cornering load *reducing* front grip.

Stiffer front bar => more load on the outside front, less load on the inside front, which reduces total front grip. This is because the load/grip curve is not linear. The additional load on the outside front doesn't give as much lateral grip back vs. what is taken away at the inside front, because the outside front is more highly loaded.

Stiffer front bar => LESS load on the outside rear, MORE load on the inside rear. Which INcreases total rear grip, as the reduced load on the outside rear allows it to make more grip per load, and the inside rear is also able to contribute more additional grip.

-I don’t drive fast nor do I track in the rain, so rain traction means little to me. Yes my mistake 40mm per tire wider. I'm not N/A but am from time to time when the FI has issues, I think I would still choose this size, just from the sheer grip it provides in the corners and not finding any draw backs since the overall gearing hasn’t changed. The XS is actually quite a light tire for its size, coupled with very light wheels RPF1, the over all package is on par with OEM weight.
295/35-17 XS is 32 lb.! The Hoosier tires in that size are pretty light, though
[/quote]

ok
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 06:55 AM
  #36  
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I run non-staggered to get rid of the increadible amount of midcorner (steady state) understeer. I am running 255s square RA-1s for the track & 275s square Hoosier A6 for auto-x. It's rare that I take the track car to the auto-x, but I still get a slight push with my set up. And this is probably due to my lack of patience on long sweepers.

My alignment on the track car is..
Front -3.7 camber | little bit of toe out | 6.7 caster
Rear -2.7 camber | 1/8" toe in
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 07:09 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by iLuveketchup
I run non-staggered to get rid of the increadible amount of midcorner (steady state) understeer. but I still get a slight push with my set up. And this is probably due to my lack of patience on long sweepers.

My alignment on the track car is..
Front -3.7 camber | little bit of toe out | 6.7 caster
Rear -2.7 camber | 1/8" toe in
It’s probably the thicker sway bar you added up front
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 04:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ZDan
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1344530688' post='21924729
[quote name='ZDan' timestamp='1344435484' post='21921548']
Why it makes sense: If you add wide tires up front without changing roll stiffness bias, you aren't fully utilizing that added grip up front.
-Why? Adding a thicker sway bar removes weight transfer and ultimately reduces traction, the point of adding more rubber is to increase traction. Too thick a sway bar and you just canceled out the modification.
Adding a thicker front sway bar doesn't "remove weight transfer". It increases "weight transfer" up front and reduces it in the back. Total "weight transfer" is the same, you're just alleviating the load on the outside rear and increasing the load on the outside front.
Even if you go with "too thick a sway bar", you haven't canceled the mod, you *still* will have more overall grip, it will just be biased more to the rear and you'll get more understeer.

If you take a car that has good handling balance and add a ton of front grip, you're no longer balanced. Bias roll stiffness to the front a bit and you'll still have more grip up front vs. originally, and also have more rear grip. For me, sway bars are *the* way to balance grip after you've got appropriate camber levels and spring rates.
- I agree, but simply saying run a thicker sway bar as an automatic after adding wider front tires is a misnomer, not always is it appropriate, nore does it offer any conclusion of how much thicker would be appropriate.
I mostly agree. I would be more likely to try 255s all around and *then* decide whether to run a stiffer front bar or not, and if so how stiff.

Problem with the S2k is that to go wider than 255 in back, you have to go taller as well, which hurts gearing.
- Not true, the 295/35/17 on the back of my car would state otherwise. These have 20mm added width and the same overall height profile as a 255/40 so no gearing differences.
You mean 40mm added width, per side! Not exactly a popular size, only Kumho XS (poor wet grip) and hardcore Hoosier R-comps come in that size. 295s probably overkill on an NA S! Actually, I see that Hoosier now also has 275/35-17s. Hmmm...

255 up front 295 back /thread
Run the appropriate spring rates and settings on your coilovers and chances are good your not going to find any short comings with the sway bars that came on your S.
Holy CRAP that's a lot of rubber...
[/quote]

Hi ZDan,

Tried to send you a PM but was unable to. Was trying to mention something in private to you.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #39  
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My message box was at 100%, I cleaned it up a bit, try again?
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ZDan
My message box was at 100%, I cleaned it up a bit, try again?
sent
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