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Hi all, question, will these fit? I am assuming no spacers, no fender rolling. Still same tire setup front 215/45R17 and 245/40R17 back?
Thanks in advance!
I would say that it's a very borderline fitment. I would recommend maxing out the front camber adjusters and running similar in the back.
I don't have first hand experience with too many staggered setups but 215+48 should be roughly 5 mm less aggressive than 255+63 so I imagine it should work fairly well. Just dial in extra camber for safety and performance. Now 245+45 in the rear is a no go IMO. I've seen this setup rub crack and blister paint. I know the sticky says they'd work but I think some where it drops the caveat that the rec is for stock height. Maybe some extra camber in there to help it out too. That's similar clearance to what I'm running at back (255+50) and I definitely needed a roll and bumper tab relocation even with -3.5* rear camber that I ran at one point. Also 17x8.5 isn't the most ideal dimension either. Don't they offer at 17x9+45 too?
Also what ride height are you at? That will also affect your clearance.
I’m running the same setup (offset, tires, width) with SE37Ks and stock suspension, no rolling. I also posted here to get another opinion and all advice was super helpful.
In Switzerland (and Germany), all car mods need to be inspected and certified by the government. They passed my clearance saying there was sufficient space and have not experienced any rubbing. But I’m just one car.
Rear with +45, 8.5 and 245s
Last edited by jamesyun; Apr 24, 2022 at 08:23 AM.
Hi all, thank you kindly for feedback!
@jamesyun this is extremely helpful, glad to hear someone is running exact setup!
Yeah I was trying to gauge the sizes based on the Fitment Guide Threat: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/wheels-t...-guide-342793/
As mentioned - I’m at original suspension height. If you’re lowered or plan to drop your height, you will need a roll. I also got my alignment done and my shop added some negative camber as well.
At the moment I am on standard ride height, although I want to upgrade to Ohlin's and go bit lower if clarence permits, as every little bit helps.
So I will most likely be going with: front: Rays Volk Racing CE28SL Select Size17x7.5 - ET48 - 5x114.3
back: Rays Volk Racing CE28SL Select Size17x9 - ET65 - 5x114.3
Again thank you kindly for all the help and support, much appreciated!
With that sizing you could step up to 225/255 stagger. Or go with 17x9+63 with 255 non stagger all around. 225+48 and 255+63 should be equivalent outboard spacing by math though that might vary slightly depending on tire size variances. 17x9+63 is a well known wheel size that clears both front and rear fenders without fender mods even when lowered modestly as long as you dial in extra camber. The main reports you will find of 17x9+63 biting the fenders is in extreme situations like going off at the track. This may lead to situations where you have a extreme combinations of steering lock and compression such that the tire might catch a fender tab. But it seems like people usually get away with the fitment for a really long time. If you want some extra room for comfort you can get after market camber adjusters.
17x9 +45 absolutely needs a fender roll. The specs op posted are very much on the edge. I’d say if the car is lowered it probably needs a roll.
Dead threads get read right?
I've been considering my own options and 17x7.5 +48 (13.35mm further outboard vs stock AP2 sizes before considering tire choice) seems like it should be safe from what I've seen in other threads even considering a 1"-1.25" drop. 17x9 +45 I totally agree with but I'm curious if you meant both front and rear when you made this statement. As @Shift9303 alluded to, seems like a lot of folks go the 17x9 +63 route (17.4mm further outboard vs AP2 sizes before tire choice) safely with just extra camber.
I could totally be missing something so please don't take my question as being critical of your assessment.
17x9 +45 needs a roll even in the rear. Camber can solve a lot of problems for the rear but because the front wheels turn there is a much higher chance of catching the fender lip. Add in that the fronts are much more fragile and that tiny fender lip is easy for a tire to grab means I tend to recommend rolling the fronts especially if the car is lowered. I’ve seen oem wheels catch the front fenders on lowered cars. Then again some have never had an issue. It’s in situations where the wheels are turned and the suspension is compressed. Driveways, high speed corners, etc that this is an issue and in my experience you don’t hear the fronts rub like you do with the rears. Usually when you hear it it is to late because something bad has happened.