Starter Replacement
01-31-2006, 09:50 AM
#1
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Starter Replacement
Had to replace the starter in my 00 street car this past weekend. (@95k miles) I didn't find any threads that talked about the process, so.....
Don't follow the helms tho. It over simplfies the whole thing and isn't really correct.
First off if you've had your tranny out for any reason you might be like me and never put the top starter bolt back in. It's not needed and I've not run w/ one on both my street and race cars for years. If this is the case ignore the helms completely and just skip to step #4
If you have both bolts in the starter, again don't follow the helms completely.
**** Disconnect Battery ****
1) Remove Intake
2) Remove Accessory Belt
3) Remove top bolt of Alternator, losen lower and rotate away so you can get to the top starter bolt. (see any tranny removal thread) Remove bolt with long extension.
----
4) Remove intake support bracket (black bar) bolt (14mm on back/top of intake manifold) - Push water hose out of clip.
5) Jack up car, put on stands. (I did front only)
6) Unclip wire harnesses from intake support bracket, remove lower 14mm bolt and remove.
7) Remove power cable from back of starter. 12mm under rubber boot.
8) Remove other cable (spade connector - above power cable - you can't really see it - it pulls straight off, don't need to press anything)
9) Note the position of the knock sensor - the cable that you just took off with the spade connector shares wires with the knock sensor so its easy to spot. It has a green plastic ring on it too. The knock sensor is plastic and brittle. Don't break it. Seriously, its easy to do and a bitch to replace when the engine is in the car. (I didn't this time, but have broken it on other engine swaps).
10) Remove both 10mm bolts to fuel line bracket on frame where the hardline connects to the flexible one. This will give you more wiggle room to get the starter out.
11) Remove 14mm lower starter bolt. I used a 3/8's breaker bar and deep socket. It was the perfect length. Starter is now loose.
12) Back starter out of hole in block while paying attention to the knock sensor.
13) Twist and rotate starter to get it out. Takes a little time and finesse. Don't forget about that knock sensor.
14) Reverse steps to put it all back together. Getting the spade connector back on is a little bit of a pain because you can't see it. But just lay there on your back and fiddle with it. You'll get it eventually.
Have a beer & enjoy.
Shared
Don't follow the helms tho. It over simplfies the whole thing and isn't really correct.
First off if you've had your tranny out for any reason you might be like me and never put the top starter bolt back in. It's not needed and I've not run w/ one on both my street and race cars for years. If this is the case ignore the helms completely and just skip to step #4
If you have both bolts in the starter, again don't follow the helms completely.
**** Disconnect Battery ****
1) Remove Intake
2) Remove Accessory Belt
3) Remove top bolt of Alternator, losen lower and rotate away so you can get to the top starter bolt. (see any tranny removal thread) Remove bolt with long extension.
----
4) Remove intake support bracket (black bar) bolt (14mm on back/top of intake manifold) - Push water hose out of clip.
5) Jack up car, put on stands. (I did front only)
6) Unclip wire harnesses from intake support bracket, remove lower 14mm bolt and remove.
7) Remove power cable from back of starter. 12mm under rubber boot.
8) Remove other cable (spade connector - above power cable - you can't really see it - it pulls straight off, don't need to press anything)
9) Note the position of the knock sensor - the cable that you just took off with the spade connector shares wires with the knock sensor so its easy to spot. It has a green plastic ring on it too. The knock sensor is plastic and brittle. Don't break it. Seriously, its easy to do and a bitch to replace when the engine is in the car. (I didn't this time, but have broken it on other engine swaps).
10) Remove both 10mm bolts to fuel line bracket on frame where the hardline connects to the flexible one. This will give you more wiggle room to get the starter out.
11) Remove 14mm lower starter bolt. I used a 3/8's breaker bar and deep socket. It was the perfect length. Starter is now loose.
12) Back starter out of hole in block while paying attention to the knock sensor.
13) Twist and rotate starter to get it out. Takes a little time and finesse. Don't forget about that knock sensor.
14) Reverse steps to put it all back together. Getting the spade connector back on is a little bit of a pain because you can't see it. But just lay there on your back and fiddle with it. You'll get it eventually.
Have a beer & enjoy.
Shared
Adding to the FAQ
02-02-2006, 02:45 PM
#3
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You could try this method of putting the top bolt in the starter.
Put a piece of paper FLAT on the top of the bolt and push the socket onto the head of the bolt. The bolt will stay in the socket and you can use an extension to put the bolt back in. It might be useful when changing a clutch for example and the intake manifold doesn't come off.
Put a piece of paper FLAT on the top of the bolt and push the socket onto the head of the bolt. The bolt will stay in the socket and you can use an extension to put the bolt back in. It might be useful when changing a clutch for example and the intake manifold doesn't come off.
03-28-2006, 11:09 PM
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REMOVE INTAKE!!!
WTF!!!!
dude, i hope your joking. i pull the alt, remove the bolts, and take the starter out through the bottom, all in a garage, at home , with no air tools. did it in 45 mins. i hope what i just typed helps some folks save ALOT of time. cause pulling the intake, is bull. later dave
p.s put the top bolt back in, thats just hack to leave it out. later
WTF!!!!
dude, i hope your joking. i pull the alt, remove the bolts, and take the starter out through the bottom, all in a garage, at home , with no air tools. did it in 45 mins. i hope what i just typed helps some folks save ALOT of time. cause pulling the intake, is bull. later dave
p.s put the top bolt back in, thats just hack to leave it out. later
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hehe. cool. late
03-29-2006, 10:35 AM
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"do not allow yourself to become arrogant or discourteous, for both are characteristics adopted by those who seek to cover their weaknesses"
03-29-2006, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by krazik,Mar 29 2006, 11:35 AM
Your sig:
you didnt come off as the easily offended type when i spoke with you at megameet. hmmmm 
i guess you may be upset that i used the word hack for leaving out the starter bolt, but i call it like i see it. and it takes mere seconds to reinstall it with the correct tools, i do 110% quality repairs and upgrades all day long, and i dont advocate those who suggest leaving parts off. sorry if i upset you, we should be able to disagree agreeably dont you agree...