I would've gone the DIY route, but not having a welder is what drove me to Gladman. Simple drop in replacement and you're good to go. Neither hitch (Gladman or DIY) has been load tested to failure, but I'll assume they're both rated to a Class 1 hitch.

 

Lets see some install pictures since the one I used on my signature link is no longer available.
Thanks

 

Ok so I installed the Curt hitch today. Went smoothly, fitment is perfect. Instructions said to lower the exhaust, but I didn't get enough clearance doing this, so I removed my mufflers completely (i have a skunk2 exhaust with a flange at the Y pipe). Removing the exhaust entirely just gives you so much room to work.

I am unsure how long the installation actually took me as I was working on another car in the middle of doing this. I would guess I spent an hour actually installing the hitch (this is on a lift with access to any tool I would need)

Drilled holes, and enlarged the Front most hole (both sides). Used cheap harbor freight drill and bits and had no issues. Used cutoff tool to widen front holes.


Here is a picture of the hitch bolted in


Hitch installed, no exhaust


Unnecessary angled view.


Deciding on a bike rack so I can put this to the test. I dont forsee any problems as my bike weighs 27 pounds and I will rarely need to put a second bike on.

Aaaaaand here's my bike.

 

Does that hitch work for an AP1? I really don't want to drill hole in my trunk pan. If this hitch worksthe. This is the way I want to go. It probably hangs down a bit lower than it need to on an AP1. I need a bike rack on my S. Luckily the heaviest bike that would go on is a 27lb bike. Most of the time it would be my 22lb mtb or 18 lb road bike.

I have a curved ball mount hitch that I welded a 2"x2" receiver hitch to and can mount one or both of my Thule T2 trays onto.