Wire Tuck - Q&A , FAQ
07-31-2009, 03:10 PM
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Wire Tuck - Q&A , FAQ
For previous questions:
Brake System
- Earls Stainless Steel Braided -3an Line
- There are many different lengths you can obtain from summitracing.com.
- Brake Master Cylinder/Clutch Master Cylinder/ Bulkheads
- The stock threads on these components are 10x1.0mm. The adapters are from Earls the fittings are male-male adapters -3an to 10x1.0mm.
- Brake Booster was rotated 180* to allow the vacuum line to enter the bottom to be less visible.
- Fitting List
- 2 -3an T's
- 8 -3an to 10x1.0mm adapters ( bulkheads,cmc,bmc,prop valve)
- 7 Brake lines various lengths. mostly 36" 10" 26" and one very long one for the right front brake
- Remote battery terminals
- Can be found on summitracing for around 18$ they utilize a 1.25" hole.
- A/C Delete
- The ac lines have been removed for now until the time come where i get some custom ones made. The A/C compressor will be removed and the belt replaced with P/N 6PK1145. This is a shorter belt and allows you to delete the ac compressor
- Coolant lines
- They have been removed from the firewall. You can cut one of the coolant hoses down to just loop the 2 outlets to each other. you also can use the same clamp.
- Locations
- Underhood Fuse Box is now under the dash. There are about 6 wire you have to extend in order to push the harness back through the firewall grommet.
- The Battery is located in the cubby near where some people like to mount the underhood fuse box.
- The EPS unit is also located in that cubby as well in the right front fender.
- The secondary fuse box is located in the left front fender and from there the starter wire goes through a hole in between the firewall and the fender spot welds.
- The Power feed for the starter (before the fuse) comes under the wiper cowl, through another hole in the right front fender well and to the battery.
- The Alternator wire goes through the firewall with an available grommet that comes stock on the car. From there it goes under the dash, across the middle, and to the fuse box under dash.
- All wiper motor wires will need to be extened to go through the fender hole and no the firewall grommet.
- Grounds for the headlight and wiper motor are relocated just under the fender mounting area on the frame. I Drilled a 1/4" hole and used a bolt and nut to secure the grounds on left and right side harnesses.
- The eps wires will need to be depinned from their connector accordingly so you can push the harness through the hole in the right front fender welll. The wires run from their control unit, across the fender liner, down through the headlight opening and secured to the frame and then enters the cross member ( you will need a coat hanger to fish the wires through) the wires then come out on the other side of the frame rail through the same size hole. All 5 wires will need to be extened. the steering torque sensor and the power wires for the motor it self.
- i deleted the cruise control in its entirity. i do not use this and this is up to your discretion.
- The boost solenoid wiring is routed into the vtec harness and through the coil pack harness , out the back and follows the main engine loom into the engine cabin where it plugs into the aem ems.
- The Boost Gauge reference line goes from the vacuum block on the firewall, through another hole in the firewall and under the dash to the gauge.
- The wideband harness will be routed from the top of the sensor on the downpipe, across the back of the engine bay and under the main loom into the cabin.
- The battery is a Deka ETX-14 with 200cca. this is the same as the braille lightweight battery.
im sure there is some im forgetting... any more ?'s feel free to ask.
Well i decided that i would like to tuck the engine bay on the s2.
it all started when installing my turbo setup and i coulnt stand the way the fusebox looked ghettorigged sideways, pardon my french.
i then decided that i would relocate the fuse box underdash. I went ahead and got that completed in all honesty it wasent that big of a hassle..
so it went from this:
battery location then
and so far to this:
Brake master cylinder with -3 fittings.
Battery and eps unit
The main reason to make this thread is for technical reference because ive searched on this site and have found pretty much nothing regarding wire tuck Q&A
- Brake Setup
- Stainless braided -3an lines to proportioning valve and t block fittings located under car/subframe. all lines to wheel wells will be hidden.
- Fuse box was reposistioned under the dash,. about 6 wires will have to be cut and extended to reach.
- The heater hoses/tubes have been removed. this is your personal preference, i will not be driving the car in the colder months so its an eye sore and i took it out. I looped the inlet/outlet together on the right side of the engine with the same line that goes to the inlet tube. i cut it to length and used the same clamps.
- The a/c lines will be custom made, i am a must with ac. the stock lines are hidious and will be running an lines as well with conversion fittings welded onto the stock hard lines to and from the evaporator core.
- The abs was removed. I am running stainless braided line with 10 x 1.00mm adapters in the master cylinder and brake line bulkhead fittings in the fneder well as well as on the prop valve
- the clutch master cylinder line i am running the same line/setup
- here in WV we do not have emission so all the air pump wiring relays pump itself is all gone. The small underhood fuse box was reposistioned in the fender well utilizing its stock mounting tabs. the positive feed from the battery to the box was relocated under the wiper cowl as well as the EPS unit power supply line. The starter wire was sleeved and ran through a small hole to the right of the clutch master cylinder.
- the alternator wire was fed through the hole where the cruise control actuator cable used to run through. the wire was cut and extended through the dash and under the climate unit to the fuse box.
- the boost signal tubing was ran through an available grommet to the boost gauge it self.
- the eps motor power wires and torque sesnor wires were all sleeved and ran through the crossmember support in the front of the engine bay.
- the fan wires have been extended and sleeved and tucked away under the radiator support etc.
i will upload with more pictures and better quality ones at that as time goes on. i am now in the process of ordering brake lines and fender washers and setting up some things to be powdercoated.
if any of you have seen my build thread in the FI forum you know i havent been around latey, and yes the turbo side setup is off the car. i am selling the manifold downpipe and dumptube for another setup.
Brake System
- Earls Stainless Steel Braided -3an Line
- There are many different lengths you can obtain from summitracing.com.
- Brake Master Cylinder/Clutch Master Cylinder/ Bulkheads
- The stock threads on these components are 10x1.0mm. The adapters are from Earls the fittings are male-male adapters -3an to 10x1.0mm.
- Brake Booster was rotated 180* to allow the vacuum line to enter the bottom to be less visible.
- Fitting List
- 2 -3an T's
- 8 -3an to 10x1.0mm adapters ( bulkheads,cmc,bmc,prop valve)
- 7 Brake lines various lengths. mostly 36" 10" 26" and one very long one for the right front brake
- Remote battery terminals
- Can be found on summitracing for around 18$ they utilize a 1.25" hole.
- A/C Delete
- The ac lines have been removed for now until the time come where i get some custom ones made. The A/C compressor will be removed and the belt replaced with P/N 6PK1145. This is a shorter belt and allows you to delete the ac compressor
- Coolant lines
- They have been removed from the firewall. You can cut one of the coolant hoses down to just loop the 2 outlets to each other. you also can use the same clamp.
- Locations
- Underhood Fuse Box is now under the dash. There are about 6 wire you have to extend in order to push the harness back through the firewall grommet.
- The Battery is located in the cubby near where some people like to mount the underhood fuse box.
- The EPS unit is also located in that cubby as well in the right front fender.
- The secondary fuse box is located in the left front fender and from there the starter wire goes through a hole in between the firewall and the fender spot welds.
- The Power feed for the starter (before the fuse) comes under the wiper cowl, through another hole in the right front fender well and to the battery.
- The Alternator wire goes through the firewall with an available grommet that comes stock on the car. From there it goes under the dash, across the middle, and to the fuse box under dash.
- All wiper motor wires will need to be extened to go through the fender hole and no the firewall grommet.
- Grounds for the headlight and wiper motor are relocated just under the fender mounting area on the frame. I Drilled a 1/4" hole and used a bolt and nut to secure the grounds on left and right side harnesses.
- The eps wires will need to be depinned from their connector accordingly so you can push the harness through the hole in the right front fender welll. The wires run from their control unit, across the fender liner, down through the headlight opening and secured to the frame and then enters the cross member ( you will need a coat hanger to fish the wires through) the wires then come out on the other side of the frame rail through the same size hole. All 5 wires will need to be extened. the steering torque sensor and the power wires for the motor it self.
- i deleted the cruise control in its entirity. i do not use this and this is up to your discretion.
- The boost solenoid wiring is routed into the vtec harness and through the coil pack harness , out the back and follows the main engine loom into the engine cabin where it plugs into the aem ems.
- The Boost Gauge reference line goes from the vacuum block on the firewall, through another hole in the firewall and under the dash to the gauge.
- The wideband harness will be routed from the top of the sensor on the downpipe, across the back of the engine bay and under the main loom into the cabin.
- The battery is a Deka ETX-14 with 200cca. this is the same as the braille lightweight battery.
im sure there is some im forgetting... any more ?'s feel free to ask.
Well i decided that i would like to tuck the engine bay on the s2.
it all started when installing my turbo setup and i coulnt stand the way the fusebox looked ghettorigged sideways, pardon my french.
i then decided that i would relocate the fuse box underdash. I went ahead and got that completed in all honesty it wasent that big of a hassle..
so it went from this:
battery location then
and so far to this:
Brake master cylinder with -3 fittings.
Battery and eps unit
The main reason to make this thread is for technical reference because ive searched on this site and have found pretty much nothing regarding wire tuck Q&A
- Brake Setup
- Stainless braided -3an lines to proportioning valve and t block fittings located under car/subframe. all lines to wheel wells will be hidden.
- Fuse box was reposistioned under the dash,. about 6 wires will have to be cut and extended to reach.
- The heater hoses/tubes have been removed. this is your personal preference, i will not be driving the car in the colder months so its an eye sore and i took it out. I looped the inlet/outlet together on the right side of the engine with the same line that goes to the inlet tube. i cut it to length and used the same clamps.
- The a/c lines will be custom made, i am a must with ac. the stock lines are hidious and will be running an lines as well with conversion fittings welded onto the stock hard lines to and from the evaporator core.
- The abs was removed. I am running stainless braided line with 10 x 1.00mm adapters in the master cylinder and brake line bulkhead fittings in the fneder well as well as on the prop valve
- the clutch master cylinder line i am running the same line/setup
- here in WV we do not have emission so all the air pump wiring relays pump itself is all gone. The small underhood fuse box was reposistioned in the fender well utilizing its stock mounting tabs. the positive feed from the battery to the box was relocated under the wiper cowl as well as the EPS unit power supply line. The starter wire was sleeved and ran through a small hole to the right of the clutch master cylinder.
- the alternator wire was fed through the hole where the cruise control actuator cable used to run through. the wire was cut and extended through the dash and under the climate unit to the fuse box.
- the boost signal tubing was ran through an available grommet to the boost gauge it self.
- the eps motor power wires and torque sesnor wires were all sleeved and ran through the crossmember support in the front of the engine bay.
- the fan wires have been extended and sleeved and tucked away under the radiator support etc.
i will upload with more pictures and better quality ones at that as time goes on. i am now in the process of ordering brake lines and fender washers and setting up some things to be powdercoated.
if any of you have seen my build thread in the FI forum you know i havent been around latey, and yes the turbo side setup is off the car. i am selling the manifold downpipe and dumptube for another setup.
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08-02-2009, 07:15 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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last night i removed the A/C lines and i am goin to cut the hardlines where they come off the drier/evap/compressor and get -6 fittings welded on.
that will kick off the a/c line re routing. i am not very concerned about that so it will be some time before i get them done.
i also ordered fender washers from fastenal , really cleans up the engine bay from the awful old and oxidized bolts.
here are the Part Numbers:
- M6x20mm Allen Head Flat Cap Bolts
M42550020a20000
- Stainless Washers
1133144
If you guys are also wondering where the wire sleeving came from..
partsexpress.com search, sleeving, its called techflex and it is expandable to fit over connectors etc.
i should be working on the vtec solenoid/dummy light switch/oil press switch sleeving soon. i am also running the boost solenoid wires in this same harness, across the valve cover and into the cabin to the aem ems.
that will kick off the a/c line re routing. i am not very concerned about that so it will be some time before i get them done.
i also ordered fender washers from fastenal , really cleans up the engine bay from the awful old and oxidized bolts.
here are the Part Numbers:
- M6x20mm Allen Head Flat Cap Bolts
M42550020a20000
- Stainless Washers
1133144
If you guys are also wondering where the wire sleeving came from..
partsexpress.com search, sleeving, its called techflex and it is expandable to fit over connectors etc.
i should be working on the vtec solenoid/dummy light switch/oil press switch sleeving soon. i am also running the boost solenoid wires in this same harness, across the valve cover and into the cabin to the aem ems.
