yourboysoap

Car doesn't feel that bad honestly but I want to take care of this problem before it gets worse.

When I'm at a light idling (doesnt seem to matter the temp of the car), the car will once every 20 seconds hesitate. It wont drop in rpms, just kind of stutter. I really dont know what this is. I did the map whack and tie wrap and ECU reset and it actually felt a lot more responsive. I didnt make it not 3 miles when it went right back to the way it was. i do have a 2000 AP1 completely stock. Should I replace the MAP sensor here or is it a combination of other things? I am throwing no codes.

gCHOW

i have a similar problem... when my engine is cold (within 5 minutes of starting up) and i'm in traffic or something, when the RPMs drop the engine seems to have problems with keeping the RPMs above idle so the engine stutters and every once in awhile stalls.

from my research and from conversations with some s2k guys they told me it could be a few things...

1. coil packs going bad
2. idle air valve dirty/sticking
3. MAP sensor going bad

hope that helps, anyone else have any other ideas?

Blucky87

Have you guys tried cleaning the IACV? it shouldn't be too hard with it still on car... thats what I would do first if I was you and had this problem.

lilsharky

I have tried it worked for about 10 minutes and came back, so i assumed that it was just the reset of the ECU that made it work fine for 10 minutes. I also changed the map sensor having no problems for about a week and came back. Going to try and clean throttle body next week.

yourboysoap

Just cleaned the IACV (which was pretty dirty) as well as a little brake cleaner down the passage where the MAP sensor is located over. Reset the ECU and relearned. Still no real difference. Took it out for a drive and after about 10 minutes, still have a random hesitation or cough every 30 seconds or so. No idea whats going on. Does this sound like a MAP sensor? My top end acceleration isnt bad, but off the line or idling, i get that random hesitation.

CrZy_Vick

My car stutters in idle and has been sense i bought it. My neighbor has one as well, a MY2000 and when I asked him he noted to me that it is normal for our cars...Most likelly AP1s only. My car usually stutters once the oil gets hot, around 180degrees to be exact, and when i am tapping the gas to move up in traffic for exmaple. I wouldnt worry too much unless it drops something unaturally very low all the time; around 450RPMs. Once in a while my S (MY2003) does drop low but comes back up. My explanation is due to heat soak(my guess!)ex: in traffic or some sort of slight gas tapping even if the ecu relearns, the temperature is always changing and the air fuel needs to adjust...Im no F20C guru by any way, this is what just sounds logical to me. Vick.

EDIT: after re-reading what you said, it could be your car just not running right as in fuel wise...maybe phanominally rich? A buddy of mine had a pretty bad hesitation at 5k, then got it fixed via-VAFC luckily...and setting the "VTAK" at 5k where the hesitation was...maybe invest in some AEM EMS ;D if the ecu is the problem...or get 02-03 ecu... witch is less rich from my knowledge.

HS2K007

Just did all of this you guys have posted on mine this week. No difference for me. I read anohter post to adjust the idle a little higher. I did this today to keep the rpm just under 1k. Worked like a charm. No shutter or cut off at a red light. You can not even tell the idle is higher by the sound. The car sounds smoother. I have been fighting this for about 1-2 years and had almost given up. Do not replace anything else, just adjust the throttle up slighty. You can test the sweet spot by loosening the jam nut move the set screw up and manually turn the throttle. When the throttle returns to normal if you still have shutter, move the set screw higher until you just have little to no shutter. You may also need to tighten your throttle cable. I did this about 3-4 months ago, so mine was already tight. You would not believe how responsive the car is with the cable as tight as it will go without moving the throttle position.

yourboysoap

Appreciate the input. I will definitely check the throttle position. regardless, it seems like a good thing to check.

I also noticed the studdering at idle (kind of like a 'miss' every 20 seconds where the whole car shakes ONCE, not a long stumble. Super weird.) as well as acceleration is not very smooth. i remember the first time I did an ECU reset, the car felt great then went away. So, whatever I am feeling is definitely a problem then resurfaces after an ECU reset. That's why I am convinced it has to be an oxygen sensor or a MAP sensor. if something was actually broken, it wouldnt work, even after an ECU reset. But a sensor returning to false readings about 10 mins after a reset makes sense....right?

Importedpower

i could be wrong here, but the reset only does something short term because it idles higher for a period of time after the reset until the air flows and such are relearned by the computer... ie: adjust throttle. I have same issues and ill try this

yourboysoap

Definitely possible. I doubt thats the reason I am stumbling but couldnt hurt. Next step will be some Chevron techron with some Shell V-power 93 octane. Fixed my CRX bogging instantly. Who knows.