Fast road setup.
#1
Fast road setup.
Firstly, I'd like to know, if you have lowered your car by around 30mm and had the fast road setup, would you say it made a big difference? Cause lets face it, the car handles well anyway. Secondly, how did the car feel after having a fast road setup done when you weren't on a perfectly smooth road? Did if feel well planted or did it become a bit skitish? I need to have the tracking done on my car, so I'm thinking of getting the fast road setup instead and get it all done in one go.
Cheers,
Chad.
Cheers,
Chad.
#2
Administrator
Depends how you define fast road set up - what settings specifically?
I have a fast road setup, so does Sazzy, both are different and handle differently, mine is slightly lower too. I've done a comparison of settings today and can post them tomorrow, was thinking of setting up a geo comparison thread too
I have a fast road setup, so does Sazzy, both are different and handle differently, mine is slightly lower too. I've done a comparison of settings today and can post them tomorrow, was thinking of setting up a geo comparison thread too
#3
Registered User
There's no such thing as a definitive fast road setup. Each aligner will have their own opinion of what should be done to make it suitable for 'fast road' driving.
After me and Chris at CG installed KWs, he set it up based on what I'd asked for, but I wasn't happy with it so he made some adjustments. This goes to show that one setup does not suit everyone.
After me and Chris at CG installed KWs, he set it up based on what I'd asked for, but I wasn't happy with it so he made some adjustments. This goes to show that one setup does not suit everyone.
#4
Hmmm, to be honest I wouldn't have a clue what settings they would use. I know nothing about that type of thing. A couple of friends of mine had a 'fast road setup' done and said it made their car amazing. I never heard them complain about anything, but they wouldn't having spent the money. But none of them were S2000's. The only Honda was a Civic type R. He swore by it. The company nearest me is ABP so that's where it would be getting done. I need to ask them if they'll check the bush bolts first without charge, before doing it anyway. I don't want a half arsed job doing. So at the time I'll also ask about maybe small alterations after if I'm not happy and see what they say.
#5
Registered User
Checking the bolts is a MUST. If they haven't been greased in their lifetime, then expect problems.
There will be those who say that as long as toe is set low, you can set the camber high (~ 3 degrees) and avoid excessive tyre wear...that's a load of
IIWU, go for 1.5-2 degrees of camber at the rear, with a little bit of toe in (0.5 degrees) to maintain stability. Neutral toe (0) at the front with 1-1.5 degrees of camber. Castor is a steering damper and can slow the turn in and make the wheel feel heavy if set too high. Any adjustments within these values will be down to your preference of driving style.
There will be those who say that as long as toe is set low, you can set the camber high (~ 3 degrees) and avoid excessive tyre wear...that's a load of
IIWU, go for 1.5-2 degrees of camber at the rear, with a little bit of toe in (0.5 degrees) to maintain stability. Neutral toe (0) at the front with 1-1.5 degrees of camber. Castor is a steering damper and can slow the turn in and make the wheel feel heavy if set too high. Any adjustments within these values will be down to your preference of driving style.
#6
Lofty, mine have never been greased to my knowledge but are absolutely fine I have very little technical knowledge, sometimes this is a good thing, I think it's a bit like muscles, use it or lose it!
#7
Registered User
Saz, based upon most experiences on here, and applying a little engineering, seized bolts are much more likely than unlikely...you must be one of the lucky few
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#8
Registered User
The FN2 has torsion beam rear suspension so you can't adjust much on the rear end and as a result it doenst handle anywhere near as well!
My old S2k was set up slightly more aggressively than the current one I have but my current one was set up to someone elses preferences. I would certainly go with what Loftust has recommended, my current car has 1.5 degrees of camber all around .30 toe in at rear and .30 toe out at the front with the castor maxed out and the weight through the wheel feels great. My old one had 2.0 rear camber and 1.5 front with .50 toe in rear and .40 toe out front but castor bolts were siezed and the steering was a bit too light and sensitive to very small inputs for my liking.
A little bit of toe out on the front imo helps with a sharper turn in but each person has their own preferences. Dixon Motorsport, Centre Gravity and Wheels in Motion are the 3 that most people recommend.
#9
Registered User
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