BRP/SOT Hotside SC Install

I beleive I am the first site member to get this kit installed. I will use this thread to provide some detail on the kit installation and my impression of its performance and fitment.

Installation:

The biggest issue in installing the kit is that it requires the relocation of the Air Conditioning lines and the battery.

AC lines
I had the AC system purged at an AC shop (no charge) - brought the car home and removed the lines.

I cut the lines and measured the appropriate hose length to have flexible hoses made - then I brought them to a local AC shop. Here are some pics that detail the process:

First you need to cut the lines to get the parts you will need to have the hoses made: The high pressure line (smaller one) can be easily bent by hand if you are carefull - or you can just have the AC shop cut it and re-weld it so it points left and down from the bulkhead fitting that mounts in the firewall. The low pressure line (larger one) will likely need to be cut and re-welded - mine cracked while trying to orientate it left and slightly down.



While your lines are out you should cover the lines that are left in the car so that they do not get any dirt/etc.. in them. Also a good idea to have the AC shop provide new o-rings and a schrader valve (bring the old ones in so that they can match them properly).

To get the hoses made you can use these dimensions:

Make sure you pay attention to the orientation, as you can twist the hoses a little - but not 180 degrees.



Installation will have the lines oriented so they go towards the passenger side from the firewall and then run under the relocated fuse box (shown later).





(this info will be in the install guide - added the detail here since it may benefit some of the turbo guys).

Total cost to have the hoses made was $110 - I re-charged the system myself, expect to pay $75 to have an AC shop do it.

Battery Relocation

The SOT kit will include the parts and wiring required to relocate the battery to the trunk. I wanted to keep my trunk space so I elected to relocate the battery under the hood:





I used an Odyssey 925 dry-cell battery and made my own mounting bracket. The bracket you see below the power distribution block is included by SOT for mounting the fuse box. I have an Odyseey battery tray on order to replace the one I made:



Heater Hose/Valve

The next thing you need to do is re-configure how the heater hose and heater control valve are orientated. The kit includes a new mounting bracket and hose extension that allows you to remount it so that it clears the SC and new Throttle Body.



The hose they included was a thinner wall, and I opted to use a thicker wall hose so that it could be bent at a tighter radius without kinking. They have changed this in the kit so the hose will be black.

Supercharger Bracket

The SC is mounted using a combination of three of the exhaust manifold bolts, the heatshield mount bolts and a lower brace that is also off the manifold. The bracket is 1/4"stainless and looks to be quite strong:



Kit Installed

OK - so I jumped ahead just a bit. More detail will be included later on - inserted into this thread first post.

Here are some pics of the non-IC kit installed. It made its debut at the Arizona clubs annual meet.







I installed the kit with little more than a couple pics from the initial prototype care that was done last year. I would estimate the total time to install at a weekend. Again the pain will be having the AC lines re-routed and the battery relocation. The AC lines can actually be done post SC install if you like - just bring it to an AC shop and have them do it.

Performance

The SOT kit uses a piggyback called an ELF (emissions legal fueling). The ELF uses boost (on board map sensor) and the injector cycle that is being sent from the ECU to determine how much longer the injector needs to be held open. You adjust the tip in (where added injector duration is required), the amount of additional duration per pound of boost, and the maximum duration. My early impression is that it works and leaves the car in a very drivable condition - but it is not perfect. I would prefer that you could map on boost, rpm, etc.. Idealy it would be nice to have a piggyback that allowed you to set a target AF ration (from a wideband) and then have it manage from there.

My current AF is running mid 11's below VTEC engagement with a spike at VTEC engagement to 12.8 that comes back to the low 12's (12.1 to 12.3) almost immediately. From about 7000 rpm to redline it slowly richens up to about 11.8 at 9k. There is a little bit of partial throttle fluctuation (goes rich) but the car is quite drivable.

I will be tweaking the ELF for a few days and will get it on the dyno this coming Wednesday. Not sure what to expect - but assume she will be in the 275 to 285 range at peak with a boost of 6 PSI. The one thing that is nice is that I have 4-5 PSI from 3k to 5k and then it is 6 PSI to 9k.

I will post more updates as they happen and will be adding the A/W IC kit in a couple weeks which will push it to about 7 to 7.5 PSI.

Kit price has not been finalized - but I expect it to be about $4200 for non-IC and $5500 for the IC Kit.

nice install. though it doesnt seem like that there is much more boost you can squeeze out of thing since the pulley is already very small. i like it though, cant wait to see the IC addition

good to see it together properly, i want to see pics of the intewrcooled version

You actually change the crank pulley instead of the SC impeller pulley.

For the S2000 it looks like 8 or 9 psi is the max (due to max rotational speed limit of the Eaton SC) - of course you drop 1 psi of it with the IC. Looking for 7.5 PSI with the IC kit.

keep us posted, this is interesting....

WLAURENT the kit looks great! Can't wait to see the dyno numbers.


you seem to have a direct line of communication with them, i am interested in the Heater Hose/Valve kit only. Would you be able to ask him how much it would be just for that kit (bracket, hose, etc).

Thanks,

Certainly..

Anyone interested in the bracket to mount the fuse box? There were a couple of PM's from people asking about it - but I did not recognize them as frequent members here.

I will ask them about it this week.

I was in his car for a ride... (WOW)

More pics

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=12&t=467880

Are those pipes 3"?

This post has been edited by GrandMasterKhan on Mar 4 2007, 10:07 PM

2.5" actually

The kit includes a larger throttle body that is mounted on the inlet side (rear) of the SC.

Comparison of the OEM TB and the new one:



You want to consider the amount of volume you are adding to the in-vacuum portion of the intake manifold as to large of a volume can create issues with tuning, off throttle droop, etc..

I am really impressed at how well and quickly the OEM ECU learns the new variables. After getting a little more street tuning/tweaking of the piggyback done it does drive very well. Just need to tweak it a little more to get the AF curve dialed in for optimal performance.

marking

Wow, thats nice, Any kind of whine from the S/C? or is it totally silent stealth mode?

o yeah, vids too haha.

Nice!

that seems like a lot of work, why not just stick with Vortech?

because vortec would be slower thats why

but the vortec makes more power?

I'm just wondering what are the pro's to this blower vs vortec?

not here to talk sh!t but I have to point out some potential issues with a kit like this....


1. the amount of factory parts need to be removed/modified. not very "bolt on" / "oem" install.
- a kit at this price range, produces only 100 or so hp? 7-8 psi? avg end users would expect something relatively easy to install. modifying the a/c lines are not easy and even performance / mechanic shops would hate to do that.
-then relocating the battery, about 30lbs worth of weight to the front, thus throwing off the weight distribution a bit.


2. the supercharger sits right on the hottest spot in the engine bay.
- #1 issue, hot soaking ? i can not see how this thing will run properly under 100 degree summer. how about track days under 120 degree summer?
- even worse, the filter is mounted right next to the header. imagine, HOT air goes in the already HOT S/C, then compressed, it gets even HOTTER, forced in the engine, it just gets hotter and hotter. a very bad cycle.
- reliability issue, the s/c unit will not last under such extreme temperature.
-a vented hood will possibily help though.

3. the way that the filter is mounted is....uh.. weird.
- this makes the kit look even worse, looks like someone pieced this together in his backyard or something.

Suggestions:

think about moving the S/C to the intake side instead. replace the intake manifold completely like the comptech S/C for fwd hondas.
- f20c intake mani is 1 piece, so a new lower intake mani must be made, then the blower sits on top... keeping the throttle at where factory is, the stock air box can be used still.

hope this helps

What is the rotation speed now and the max you're thinking about?
Keep in mind you can spin that MP62 reliably to about 18000 rpm. Beyond that it is getting dangerous, but there was a guy in Miataforum which was spinning it to 21000 rpm in his Miata and making around 340 whp.

I saw this kit in person at the meet, clean Install. and props for finally getting it running!

Probably SOT will be selling this kit like the Miata ones which means there will be an option to buy it without the electronics (the ELF). Then one can install an AEM EMS or the upcoming AEM piggyback fuel/timing controller

Vortec is a centrifugal
It doesn't move much air until the high rpm range. It is more for showing off high peak dyno numbers than real world performance.

The Eaton moves air over the entire rpm range - you have full torque from very low rpm ...

There is whine only under boost/hard acceleration. When just cruising around there is zero noise coming from the Eaton - the car sounds like stock/totally stealthy (unlike some centrifugals which make some whining noise at idle and cruising) ...

This post has been edited by mx5 on Mar 5 2007, 12:34 AM

Check this vendor's page:
http://www.trackdogracing.com

The guy has a 300 whp Miata called Track Dog. It sees race tracks quite often, has 3 times the stock Miata horsepower, and the Eaton MP62 is mounted right over the header. It works just fine. The guy uses an air-air intercooler after the blower though.

Here are a couple of track videos of that Miata:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JByHlJn4Dbg

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2902776182856643723




This post has been edited by mx5 on Mar 5 2007, 12:33 AM