C4vettrn

Which MY AP2 rear sway bar are you running?

Chuck S

A complete list of the springs and sway bars by model year is in the library. (Someone will post a link for sure!)

Honda was aware of the oversteer and changed the suspension every two years to dial it out. This means that, in theory, the latest suspension is the best suspension at least from that stand point. When you find the chart note the changes. Also keep in mind the '04 and later cars got 17" wheels which allowed lower profile tires which can have stiffer sidewalls. And the '06 cars got VSA (stability assist). All this stuff is interconnected and you can mix and match but Honda did all the heavy homework. A complete set of '05 spec springs and bars is likely available on Ebay. Note the color codes. 17" OEM wheels are harder to find and properly staggered tire sizes is part of this as well. No substitute for good tires.

-- Chuck

S2000_916

I can't remember but I believe all AP2 have the same rear sway bar except the CR.

Fokker

'04 and later all have a 311 lb/in bars sans CR. My personal preference would run towards late model springs and a late model rear bar as a must. If you want to take it a step further than that while staying OEM, put a '00-01 front bar on.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br...prings-818884/

ZDan

If you want to dial out some oversteer, I wouldn't bother swapping later-gen suspension in. Just disconnect one of the rear sway bar links. Once you get used to the car's handling (which is weird due to rear toe change with bump, which swapping coilovers wouldn't do anything to fix anyway), you can reconnect the rear bar to get it back to neutrality if so desired.

Minimal effort, minimal expenditure for what you want to achieve!

UK spec is OK for everything *EXCEPT REAR TOE IN*. It calls for a ridiculous amount of rear toe which, for me, made the car less predictable and wore rear tires out ridiculously quickly.

Stock suspension, street and autoX or track, I go with:
front camber: Max negative achievable, should be around -1.5 deg
front caster: Personally I like to keep this minimized, ~5.5 degrees. However most people think that more is always better and run up to 7 degrees.
front toe: zero
rear camber: Max negative achievable, should be around -2.25 degrees
rear toe: 0.2 degrees total toe-in (or 2.2mm total, 0.087" total)