Good shop/indie mechanic for a clutch job?
08-27-2016, 06:51 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Good shop/indie mechanic for a clutch job?
I think my throwout bearing is binding, making this horrible noise - see here.
Can anyone recommend a good shop for a clutch job? I know it's important to use Honda OEM parts, but I've also heard there's a few "gotchas" that can come in to play, particularly regarding applying enough Urea grease in the right places.
Anyways, I'd really like to take it to someone who knows S2000s to tackle this.
Any suggestions?
Relevant gotchas:
Can anyone recommend a good shop for a clutch job? I know it's important to use Honda OEM parts, but I've also heard there's a few "gotchas" that can come in to play, particularly regarding applying enough Urea grease in the right places.
Anyways, I'd really like to take it to someone who knows S2000s to tackle this.
Any suggestions?
Relevant gotchas:
First is use the right parts you must, Must use oem throw out bearing (Honda calls it a release bearing), Honda pilot bearing, and Honda friction disk. Otherwise you will repacing clutch again in about 20k miles.
The PP, if you need a new one, either Honda, or ACT. If you have an ap2, consider a lighter flywheel. Stock is a heavy 22lbs. ap1 is 14. Its a solid choice to switch to ap1. Or a lightweight chromoly aftermarket. ACT streetlite at 11lbs, or prolite at 8lbs. Or other quality aftermarket chromoly.
The other thing is, its imperative that the clutch splines and a few other keys areas are greased, and the correct grease is used. Honda urea greaee highly recommend. Failure to do this will result in a clutch that drags and never fully releases, so gear shifts will grind.
The problem is, our cars are much more sensitive than most here, so shops usually won't do a sufficient job. Even if you bring them the grease, and emphasize how important it is, they still probably won't do it right. Shops will assume they know better than you, since they've done like a zillion clutches on other cars. This is why so many of us diy, or find an S specialist.
The PP, if you need a new one, either Honda, or ACT. If you have an ap2, consider a lighter flywheel. Stock is a heavy 22lbs. ap1 is 14. Its a solid choice to switch to ap1. Or a lightweight chromoly aftermarket. ACT streetlite at 11lbs, or prolite at 8lbs. Or other quality aftermarket chromoly.
The other thing is, its imperative that the clutch splines and a few other keys areas are greased, and the correct grease is used. Honda urea greaee highly recommend. Failure to do this will result in a clutch that drags and never fully releases, so gear shifts will grind.
The problem is, our cars are much more sensitive than most here, so shops usually won't do a sufficient job. Even if you bring them the grease, and emphasize how important it is, they still probably won't do it right. Shops will assume they know better than you, since they've done like a zillion clutches on other cars. This is why so many of us diy, or find an S specialist.
09-16-2016, 06:44 PM
#3
Ha me. I have a thread on this section of the forum. I've worked on many S2000's in the Austin area.
10-04-2016, 06:30 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Had several people from the Centex S2000 FB group suggest Eagle Transmission in Pflugerville. They did a great job for a reasonable rate, and let me bring my own OEM clutch kit.
10-10-2016, 08:31 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Noticed my steering wheel is misaligned. I know disconnecting the steering joint to lower the subframe is the method prescribed by the shop manual, and misaligning the steering wheel sometimes happens if the joint isn't connected in the same way, so I asked Eagle about it.
When I spoke to Eagle about fixing this, my comments were dismissed. A manager told me they don't have to lower the subframe to drop the transmission "because your car is RWD", and they never touched the subframe or steering joint. He told me to just get an alignment. The alignment was fine when I took the car to them, but I didn't feel like I was in a great position to argue what they did or did not do, so I let it go, but I'm a little perplexed at their comments.
I'm hesitant to just get an alignment, because if Eagle did mess with the steering joint, and the alignment shop straightens my alignment by adjusting the tie rods, my steering rack still won't be neutral.
When I spoke to Eagle about fixing this, my comments were dismissed. A manager told me they don't have to lower the subframe to drop the transmission "because your car is RWD", and they never touched the subframe or steering joint. He told me to just get an alignment. The alignment was fine when I took the car to them, but I didn't feel like I was in a great position to argue what they did or did not do, so I let it go, but I'm a little perplexed at their comments.
I'm hesitant to just get an alignment, because if Eagle did mess with the steering joint, and the alignment shop straightens my alignment by adjusting the tie rods, my steering rack still won't be neutral.
10-10-2016, 07:05 PM
#6
I highly doubt they messed with your steering rack. But you know your car best, so would know for sure if before it was aligned and now it's a inch off or so. I've done S2k tranny drops many MANY times over. Your argument wouldn't go far as you don't have to disconnect or even touch steering for dropping subframe. But I fully believe you, because I'd know if my steering wheel center was even a 1/8in off center. Do you have a aftermarket steering wheel? My center was off, alignment shop let me down by not fixing it, so I simply recentered hub and all is well. Most alignment shops wont touch the steering rack, it's too much effort for what you pay.
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10-30-2016, 04:36 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
I checked the steering joint, and it clearly hadn't been touched. I'm pretty sure the steering wheel problem was just coincidence. Got an alignment and my steering wheel is perfectly centered and the car tracks great (Austin's Finest Alignment at Airport and 38th). So, I'm really pleased with the service.
I supplied my own clutch and various parts. I supplied the (OEM) clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and Urea grease for about $600. They charged me $633 for the the install and machining the flywheel. They said my clutch hydraulics were toast so I paid $145 for labor and $235 for the master and slave cylinders. After other various odds and ends I was out the door for $1158 (plus the $600ish for my supplied parts). Not cheap, but I have confidence in the repair and my car drives great.
I supplied my own clutch and various parts. I supplied the (OEM) clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and Urea grease for about $600. They charged me $633 for the the install and machining the flywheel. They said my clutch hydraulics were toast so I paid $145 for labor and $235 for the master and slave cylinders. After other various odds and ends I was out the door for $1158 (plus the $600ish for my supplied parts). Not cheap, but I have confidence in the repair and my car drives great.
11-01-2016, 07:14 AM
#9
The front subframe must be lowered by at least 3 inches in order to access the top 2 transmission bolts. You can unbolt the steering rack by the 4 bolts that hold it to the subframe rather than disconnecting the steering shaft. In either case, whenever the subframe is unbolted it will shift your alignment ever so slightly even if your steering wheel is straight. It is recommended to get an alignment (on the front at least) when the transmission is remove to change the clutch.
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