Clutch master cylinder inverted flare won't screw properly
#1
Clutch master cylinder inverted flare won't screw properly
Hello All,
Maybe someone has some suggestion but I've been trying to reattach the clutch master cylinder hard line for literally 3 hours. I'm going the right direction, I've tried both the old and new master cylinders, loose in the firewall and tight, checked the threads on the master cylinder which seem to be fine and don't show cross threading. Don't see evidence on the flare nut of any burring.
Thanks
Robert
Maybe someone has some suggestion but I've been trying to reattach the clutch master cylinder hard line for literally 3 hours. I'm going the right direction, I've tried both the old and new master cylinders, loose in the firewall and tight, checked the threads on the master cylinder which seem to be fine and don't show cross threading. Don't see evidence on the flare nut of any burring.
Thanks
Robert
#3
Try turning it backwards, while holding slight inward pressure. When you feel it click farther into place, you've got the threads right at alignment point where they can engage. Now just screw in carefully trying to keep 'nut' perfectly perpendicular with threaded hole.
This trick works on all hard to engage fasteners. Turn backwards till you feel the threads drop into place, then tighten.
This trick works on all hard to engage fasteners. Turn backwards till you feel the threads drop into place, then tighten.
#4
Yep It is a new OEM AP2 CMC. Don't know why I am having so much trouble with what sounds like a really easy operation lol. I went to advanced auto and bought a couple flare nuts to check the CMC and its fine. Did run a M10x1 nut over the flare nut and got a burr out. But generally its just the angle that is my problem :/. Will consider removing the reservoir to try and help get the right angle which seems to be my issue already removed the power steering box to make room, but seems like my hand hits the reservoir no matter what position I use to hold the CMC while I tried to install the flare nut.
#5
I also work with steam cars that use a couple dozen of normal flare fittings so its not like I've never seen a flare fitting before. Just seems like inverted flares are more sensitive...
#6
Hi Car Analogy,
I tried that method, but it wasn't helping last night. Even going as far as using wrenches to maintain pressure and was hoping that would help it self align, but it wasn't any better. Just need to keep experimenting I guess.
Sorry for the all the posts lol just didn't notice your reply till I made the other two and I'm used to editing XD.
I tried that method, but it wasn't helping last night. Even going as far as using wrenches to maintain pressure and was hoping that would help it self align, but it wasn't any better. Just need to keep experimenting I guess.
Sorry for the all the posts lol just didn't notice your reply till I made the other two and I'm used to editing XD.
#7
Try removing the other end of the brake line (if it's attached). Got to remove all tension on the side you are having problems with.
Work difficult side by hand, a few times --- maybe the threads got a bit boogered. I've used spare lines or separate brake line bolts to free up difficult threads. If you have a spare line, may want to try this.
Good luck!
Work difficult side by hand, a few times --- maybe the threads got a bit boogered. I've used spare lines or separate brake line bolts to free up difficult threads. If you have a spare line, may want to try this.
Good luck!
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