Could be they over-reved the car upon test drive and now you are hearing excessive valve noise. I have seen it before

LMAS could be going bad, and you are hearing those more now that other work was done so now your listening for every noise. (doubtful but throwing it out there)

Low on oil, valve train starved of oil excessive valve train noise.

Clutch disc installed backwards and springs are riding on flywheel bolts and ticking once spinning at certain RPM.

TODA flywheel teeth hitting starter, due to JDM flywheel or starter arm not retracking after starting.

Forgot to remove wrapping from clutch upon installation.

Theres a few for you.

try these things and let us know what you find out:

Start car in Neutral and what sound does it make:
Start car in 1rst gear with foot on clutch what sound does it make:
With car idling in neutral what sound does it make:
With car idling in neutral pump clutch up and down does the noise change or go away, what sound does it make:
Where is the clutch engaging in relation to clutch pedal off the floor:

 

does the clicking/ticking increase with rpm's? does it do it regardless of clutch postition or in any gear? what about in neutral?

 

I've think we've eliminated it FROM engine problems............it was 99% unmistakeably in the transmission, they did a stetho and everything on it, to pinpoint the sound, cuz I could tell the last thing they wanted to do was to reopen the transmission.

Nonetheless, I will definitely pass that information on to them as well, and see what they have to say. At this point, I'm not eliminating any possibilities as to what was causing this problem.

Thanks for the input

 

The ticking seemed to happen at idle, and with small revs (staying less than 3k). It didn't seem to speed up at all. In fact, now that I think about it, the ticking seemed to go away when I was in gear and moving. If i was in gear, but clutch was depressed, revving would make it make the noise.

That is of course "seemingly".....my exhaust is loud enough that it might simply have been drowning out the ticking while in motion.

When I heard the ticking, I immediately turned around and took it back to the shop, so I didn't experiment with the sound long enough.........i knew something wasn't right, and it was from something they did, so I made it their problem. Therefore, I didn't do my usual "what the hell is that noise" routine.

 

Some additional information:

They also replaced a shift fork that had gone bad. I don't know if that screws in a light bulb for someone in regards to what my problem is, but just thought I'd throw that out there.

However, they did say that from taking it back apart, everything looked like it should and was in place and in good condition. So............*shrugs*.........just thought I'd throw that out there.

 

How does a shift fork go bad?

I smell headlight fluid.

 

*shrugs* lol. Well, i worded as "gone bad". they said "damaged". I don't know if that makes a difference. Misshifting from time to time maybe?

Maybe rare, but possible? It is a moving part, so @ 138k, I could imagine its been through some wear.....no?

Or are they taking me for a ride? I didn't even think to question it, because it sounded logical and possible, and probably explains my notchiness, i've almost always had in going into 2nd.......possibly?

 

Shift forks go bad when you grind a gear and you force it into one (at least that

 

[QUOTE=Bryan720,Oct 16 2008, 10:32 AM] Shift forks go bad when you grind a gear and you force it into one (at least that

 

Now i'm pissed.

They just told me that they got a new bearing ordered (cuz they think it is a bad bearing). It was ummistakably in the front section of the bell housing, so they are isolating to (for-sure) the cluch/flywheel assembly. And they said that the throwout bearing fits properly but has a little play and doesn't seat tightly, so they think the bearing is bad, so they are replacing it.

I was basically like whatever works. But what they said next is what really pissed me off. they said that once they put it back together, if the problem still exists, they can look more into it, but they will charge me more labor for it.

What kind of F***ing bullcrap is that!?!?!?!?!?! I dropped what was originally quoted at $1200, and somehow raised up to $1800, and now they won't even fixed the problem that they caused!?!?!?!?!?!??! And they said it was because I supplied my own clutch; which I also think is bogus because the clutch is confirmed in good order and for my car...........they are the ones that installed it, i don't see why that would make a difference.

Does this make sense to anyone else, or are they trying to screw me over. The other day I straight up told them im coming to take some pictures of the car. I wanted proof of the mileage and current condition from before they had to, to while they have it, to when i get it back (whenever that may be).