CDV removal
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Joined: May 2008
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yeah i was doing a slightly hard shift and man, on the shift to 1-2, in 2nd the rpms would float and not accel until the disc and the flywheel made good contact. a basic clutch slipping. could be the cdv or it could most likely be the non-existing cdv.
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Stumbled upon a gold mine: I love s2ki 
I definitely have slip one!
Quote from Saki GT:
Just to clarify for everyone, there are two types of slip in the AP2 drivetrain:
Slip one, and the biggest issue, is weak pressure plate slip - it can't clamp down sufficiently on the flywheel to stop the rotational inertia and get the powertrain to hook up. This is what causes that loooong floaty feel and burns up your clutch disc. On a hard WOT 1-2 redline shift, notice how the rpms will flow for a long time, almost 2 full seconds, before the powertrain hooks up properly. That's the pp's weak engagement failing to grab.
From what I've read, the stock pp grips at 1300lb of force, the ACT pp at 2600. The AP1 flywheel is 10 pounds less than the AP2 while sitting on a scale, but rotating at high speed, the increased mass means the AP2 flywheel is heavier by an exponential amount. Take account of the rotational weight of the heavier AP2 flywheel and you can see why there is a need for increased clamping force at the pp.
Slip two is the CDV. Its like slamming a door, no matter how quickly you slam the door, the CDV will regulate it to a steady firm shutting of the door. The purpose to engage the clutch with purpose but without shock. If you dump the clutch on a 5k 3rd to 4th shift, you notice there's no real noticeable CDV delay, and the flywheel isn't spinning fast enough to cause pp slippage. Any slippage from the CDV is way shorter than the 1-2 second slip on a WOT shift that caused by the weak pp.
Step one should be getting a pp that can do the job. People recommend the ACT pp with stock AP1 or AP2 flywheel, and OEM friction disc. If you really want to, you can also remove the CDV, which will give you a more direct feel on shock to the powertrain when you do a hard fast shift. The bottom line is the CDV is not the main culprit, the pressure plate/flywheel combo is.
I definitely have slip one!Quote from Saki GT:
Just to clarify for everyone, there are two types of slip in the AP2 drivetrain:
Slip one, and the biggest issue, is weak pressure plate slip - it can't clamp down sufficiently on the flywheel to stop the rotational inertia and get the powertrain to hook up. This is what causes that loooong floaty feel and burns up your clutch disc. On a hard WOT 1-2 redline shift, notice how the rpms will flow for a long time, almost 2 full seconds, before the powertrain hooks up properly. That's the pp's weak engagement failing to grab.
From what I've read, the stock pp grips at 1300lb of force, the ACT pp at 2600. The AP1 flywheel is 10 pounds less than the AP2 while sitting on a scale, but rotating at high speed, the increased mass means the AP2 flywheel is heavier by an exponential amount. Take account of the rotational weight of the heavier AP2 flywheel and you can see why there is a need for increased clamping force at the pp.
Slip two is the CDV. Its like slamming a door, no matter how quickly you slam the door, the CDV will regulate it to a steady firm shutting of the door. The purpose to engage the clutch with purpose but without shock. If you dump the clutch on a 5k 3rd to 4th shift, you notice there's no real noticeable CDV delay, and the flywheel isn't spinning fast enough to cause pp slippage. Any slippage from the CDV is way shorter than the 1-2 second slip on a WOT shift that caused by the weak pp.
Step one should be getting a pp that can do the job. People recommend the ACT pp with stock AP1 or AP2 flywheel, and OEM friction disc. If you really want to, you can also remove the CDV, which will give you a more direct feel on shock to the powertrain when you do a hard fast shift. The bottom line is the CDV is not the main culprit, the pressure plate/flywheel combo is.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Monroe, LA
i yanked mine out in the first 20k. I'm still rocking the first clutch and first diff. Ive made about a hundred+ passes on the strip. Still going strong at 61k miles. I am however very controlled on my launches and i lift throttle completely on a shift and always revmatch. I'm not gonna lie though, it's a pain getting that little clip out of the slave cyl.
Joined: Mar 2006
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Originally Posted by Abide,Jul 6 2009, 03:28 AM
i yanked mine out in the first 20k. I'm still rocking the first clutch and first diff. Ive made about a hundred+ passes on the strip. Still going strong at 61k miles. I am however very controlled on my launches and i lift throttle completely on a shift and always revmatch. I'm not gonna lie though, it's a pain getting that little clip out of the slave cyl.
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From: Monroe, LA
Originally Posted by globallyoff,Jul 6 2009, 01:10 PM
Good to see ya back Abide. Nice post per day ave. as well....lol
Joined: Dec 2005
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as for the PP I can see where he was going but again I am running an AP2 tranny with AP1 clutch, flywheel, PP and I was experiencing the same thing you are talking about. Once the CDV is removed it was null and void. I would say remove the CDV and see for yourself on this one.