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It took me some research to confirm that this vale cover would fit my car.
Sharing this here so that it may help someone else.
For my model year 2001 the valve cover number is: 12310-PCX-505 this part is no longer available.
A newer version of the valve cover will work: 12310-PCX-010 and is still available but you need a newer version of the PCV valve to work with the cover. You can use the same line as it is in the same place.
PCV you will need:17130-PCX-003 valve and the washer 94109-14000
Naturally replace the gasket too: 12040-PCX-305
Posting this so it may help others. I had to search around for the complete info.
I upgrade all the bulbs on the 2001 S2000 to LED bulbs. I did this in two phases.
I did the interior, side markers and the headlights all at once. I used the LED bulbs from JS2K.com you can see the upgrade kits they have on their website.
The JS2k bulbs have a fix for hyper-flash built in and for my front turn signals this was plug and play. No need for transistors.
When I replaced the rear turn signals, I got hyper-flash even though the rear bulbs from JS2k had anti-hyper flash built in.
I did not want to wire in transistors at the back. I found on the forum here this turn signal relay from Diode Dynamics:
Started the work to replace the clutch. I had a number of while in there projects planned to do. I got the new motor mounts in, replaced the thermostat, lower cooling hose, water pump, the bearings for the tensioner pulley and guide pulley.
Access to the thermostat is really good when the driver side motor mount is off. If you are changing out the motor mounts and don't know how old the thermostat is totally worth doing it at the same time.
New motor mounts in place! Was a pretty easy job. I needed to loosen them in order to get the manifold out so made sense to do them as part of the clutch process.
The driver side motor mount was done! Validation that this was a good idea to do "while i was in there"
After days of fighting with top start bolts, manifolds, driveshaft bolts we were one subframe bolt away from getting to the top transmission bolts. The front driver side subframe bolt moved 1/4" and would not budge. This made me very nervous. I was paranoid about breaking the bolt and/or stripping the threads. I decided that I was in over my head and started putting everything back together. I took my time and cleaned up and replaced a lot of worn hardware along the way. I started doing more research on the subframe bolts and found a couple of threads on this.
The advice in these threads was to loosen it as far as you can, put in penetrating oil, tighten then loosen again. After doing this about 10-20 times I finally got it out!!!!
The one on the left is what I fought and finally got out. The one on the right is what the bolt should have been. 2 of the front 4 subframe bolts were mixed up. I was very concerned that this bolt didn't even look correct for the middle bolt. I purchased new bolts for all 4 of the front subframe. I cleaned inside the bolt hole and hand threaded my new bolt in. It went in without resistance and I was able to torque it to the correct specification. So I think I am out of the woods! I CANNOT EXPLAIN THE FEELING OF RELIEVE!!!
So I think we can continue with our goal of replacing the clutch now.
Last edited by jsullyboy; Mar 20, 2023 at 03:53 AM.
Awesome thread and great job on the refresh. I also have a silverstone metallic AP1 and doing an OEM'ish refresh. You're way further along than I am though, I just picked the car up last month.
Curious if you noticed much wear on the motor mounts when you pulled them out? Nevermind, you mentioned the drivers side was shot. I need to add this to the laundry list.
