Feezy's Build Thread - 2002 New Formula Red
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Feezy (02-12-2024),
sam_spider (01-22-2024)
01-22-2024, 08:03 AM
#662
Site Moderator
Definitely a right click, save as picture.
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Feezy (02-12-2024)
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Feezy (02-12-2024)
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Feezy (02-12-2024)
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Feezy (02-12-2024)
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Feezy (02-12-2024)
02-05-2024, 01:05 PM
#667
Insane how clean and well done this car is. This is like OEM+++++.
Would absolutely take this car over Evasive's S2000R.
You gotta get some hot shoe automotive journalist (one that can actually drive) to feature this thing.
Would absolutely take this car over Evasive's S2000R.
You gotta get some hot shoe automotive journalist (one that can actually drive) to feature this thing.
02-12-2024, 07:53 AM
#668
Moderator
Thread Starter
I have a ton of updates to get through. I'm only a few months behind right now but it feels like I have doing nothing but car related things for the past six months and have a huge backlog of updates. I'm going to start working on them right now.
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Bullwings (02-12-2024)
02-12-2024, 08:48 AM
#669
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Thread Starter
11.03.2023 - Retune at UMS
When the car was initially set up I hads the guy who built the harness for me help me get it started with a base map so I could set and sync everything up, and then he and I did some e-tuning on the street. The car ran pretty well, but I always wanted it to be redone by someone in person so they could physically hear and feel what was going on. With something as finicky as ITBs that seemed to be important.
I dropped the car off at UMS early in the morning, and they said I could wait in the lobby or come back and get it. I opted to leave the car and let Tony work on it. My biggest concern was that if the car needed anything mechanically adjusted they don't know how to take everything apart to access the adjustments. They said they'd give me a call if they did. I had also talked to Tony for about an hour the month prior about the car, how it was set up, the ECU it was on, and we dove into a bunch of the details about what I liked and didn't like about my current tune.
He ended up calling me around 5:00pm that day saying the car was ready. I headed down to pick it up and we ended up talking quite a bit about the set up. He called out how well it was set up and mentioned that the quality of the Toda ITBs and linkage was so good that he didn't have any of the problems that he usually encounters on ITB cars. He even mentioned how all the vacuum and sensors were set up exactly how they should be and he wouldn't change a thing.
Driving home I really didn't notice much. The car just seemed to drive fine. I took it out the next day to get some time driving it, and I didn't think much of it. It was a fairly warm day and I needed to call a buddy. It wasn't until I was about 15 minutes into the drive, with my headphones in, on a call, windows up, with the AC on, sitting at stoplights that I realized how solid the car was set up. It is seriously to the point now that it behaves like a factory single throttle car. I forgot I was driving the S2000, and it just felt like a regular car. Idle, AC, headlights, whatever, it doesn't matter. If you don't know what you're driving it just feels like it's supposed to be this way. The only negative is that the throttle response is so good, if you hit a bump or speed bump at low speed and bumps your foot the car starts to buck as it rocks your foot on the throttle. The throttle response is just instantaneous.
The dyno graphs are whatever. It was a hub dyno and I asked him to overlay a stock AP1 over my numbers so we can get a good idea of where we are. Stock was 195/138 versus my 215/147. Heartbreaking number to be sure, but I never built the car for power, and it's not like the OEM intake manifold is a huge power restriction. The car is essentially standard bolt ons, with a 60mm exhaust and 60mm HFC. The numbers seem pretty inline with that. The car drives like an absolute dream which I think is the biggest flex. It's such a hard thing to articulate to people, but it behaves like a regular ass car. There are no hiccups, no issues, no nothing.
Anyway, here are the graphs.
When the car was initially set up I hads the guy who built the harness for me help me get it started with a base map so I could set and sync everything up, and then he and I did some e-tuning on the street. The car ran pretty well, but I always wanted it to be redone by someone in person so they could physically hear and feel what was going on. With something as finicky as ITBs that seemed to be important.
I dropped the car off at UMS early in the morning, and they said I could wait in the lobby or come back and get it. I opted to leave the car and let Tony work on it. My biggest concern was that if the car needed anything mechanically adjusted they don't know how to take everything apart to access the adjustments. They said they'd give me a call if they did. I had also talked to Tony for about an hour the month prior about the car, how it was set up, the ECU it was on, and we dove into a bunch of the details about what I liked and didn't like about my current tune.
He ended up calling me around 5:00pm that day saying the car was ready. I headed down to pick it up and we ended up talking quite a bit about the set up. He called out how well it was set up and mentioned that the quality of the Toda ITBs and linkage was so good that he didn't have any of the problems that he usually encounters on ITB cars. He even mentioned how all the vacuum and sensors were set up exactly how they should be and he wouldn't change a thing.
Driving home I really didn't notice much. The car just seemed to drive fine. I took it out the next day to get some time driving it, and I didn't think much of it. It was a fairly warm day and I needed to call a buddy. It wasn't until I was about 15 minutes into the drive, with my headphones in, on a call, windows up, with the AC on, sitting at stoplights that I realized how solid the car was set up. It is seriously to the point now that it behaves like a factory single throttle car. I forgot I was driving the S2000, and it just felt like a regular car. Idle, AC, headlights, whatever, it doesn't matter. If you don't know what you're driving it just feels like it's supposed to be this way. The only negative is that the throttle response is so good, if you hit a bump or speed bump at low speed and bumps your foot the car starts to buck as it rocks your foot on the throttle. The throttle response is just instantaneous.
The dyno graphs are whatever. It was a hub dyno and I asked him to overlay a stock AP1 over my numbers so we can get a good idea of where we are. Stock was 195/138 versus my 215/147. Heartbreaking number to be sure, but I never built the car for power, and it's not like the OEM intake manifold is a huge power restriction. The car is essentially standard bolt ons, with a 60mm exhaust and 60mm HFC. The numbers seem pretty inline with that. The car drives like an absolute dream which I think is the biggest flex. It's such a hard thing to articulate to people, but it behaves like a regular ass car. There are no hiccups, no issues, no nothing.
Anyway, here are the graphs.
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Toonces (02-12-2024)
02-12-2024, 03:40 PM
#670
Moderator
Thread Starter
10.10.2023 - Billett Charcoal Canister & EVAP System Refinement
During the ITB and fuel system installation I ended up pulling all the original hard lines from underneath the car. The fuel feed, return, and the EVAP line. Without a real intake manifold I didn't really have a place to pipe the EVAP line into, so I pulled the whole system while I was under the car. I ended up following all the advice on the thread here for EVAP removal and adding in the filters and the fuel tank pressure relief valve. I saw that the LINK ECU I'm running had the capabilities of controlling the EVAP system, but like I said earlier without the manifold it didn't see worth the effort to get it up and running. If you haven't seem the threads the link is below.
EVAP Removal Thread: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...r-way-1207469/
Once I had the new pressure relief valve and filter installed I ran into a few issues. Summers are very hot here in Arizona, and I was experiencing very strong fuel smells coming from the car. Similar to what sometimes happens with completely stock S2000s, but it was happening all the time. It was hot enough outside the garage would start to smell very strong of fuel, and at stoplights with the windows down I was getting strong whiffs of fuel as well. Basically the new EVAP system was working as designed. The tank could build a bit of pressure (so it's not always just open), but when it releases that pressure it's pushing fuel vapor out which is where the smell is coming from.
I had been looking for a way to incorporate a charcoal canister into the system somehow to help reduce the smell. I had been searching on an off for the past couple of years to try and find some OEM or aftermarket system that would fit in the spot that the factory EVAP system used to live. My concern was that without a strong vacuum source there really wouldn't be a way to purge the system and that it would eventually fuel soak and need to be replaced. I ended up searching Google again and stumbled across some billet charcoal canister that wasn't there the day before. I started looking into it and it looked like it fit the bill. Fairly small, and straight forward, serviceable so I could open it and replace the material should it ever get soaked with fuel, and it was billet. It looked like a quality part. As I started looking into it I found a phone number on their site and realized the area code was from here in Arizona, and then found out their shop was located just a few minutes from my house. I ended up give the company a call, spoke with Tim and explained everything I was trying to do. He seemed to think that the canister would work perfectly for my set up and offered for me to swing by and see what we could do.
I initially elected to go with a 6in version as I wasn't sure how I was going to fit it, but I've since revised it to the 8in version. It's a pretty simple design, it's a billet tube with end caps that hold several mesh filters and O rings in place. You can use their fittings or add some -6 ORB fittings to make it work for your set up. I tried a few different layouts and ended up fitting it by laying it in the old EVAP tray that bolts to the OEM rear tie bar. The only modifications I did to the car were all two holes to that tray so that I could secure the D clamps. It rests on the tray, doesn't vibrate or make noise, and has eliminated the fuel vapor smell. Now when the pressure relief valve needs to vent rather that let it out into the atmosphere it vents it into the charcoal canister, which then vents out right in front of the air deflector for the driver side rear tire. The big concern from the Vapor Trapper team was that I might get some liquid fuel depending on how the S2000s fuel tank worked. To test that I completely topped off the S2000 with gas, took it to the track, and then the next day took the canister back to them and we opened it up and poured out all the charcoal from the inside. It was bone dry.
This thing works perfect and is another piece I'm going to recommend to everyone who is trying to reduce the fuel smell when running an aftermarket ECU or who no longer utilized the OEM EVAP system. It's excellent. It just works and completely solved the problem for me. Full disclosure I paid full price for my canister but the people at vapor trapper let me swap it out for a larger one, and thew in a few fittings to help me mock everything up as I was trying to figure out how to fit it. They also drilled out the holes for me on my EVAP tray as I didn't have a drill press at home. If you are running the set up from the EVAP thread I linked above you owe it to yourself to check these things out.
Charcoal Canister: https://www.classicperformancerestor...-vapor-trapper
During the ITB and fuel system installation I ended up pulling all the original hard lines from underneath the car. The fuel feed, return, and the EVAP line. Without a real intake manifold I didn't really have a place to pipe the EVAP line into, so I pulled the whole system while I was under the car. I ended up following all the advice on the thread here for EVAP removal and adding in the filters and the fuel tank pressure relief valve. I saw that the LINK ECU I'm running had the capabilities of controlling the EVAP system, but like I said earlier without the manifold it didn't see worth the effort to get it up and running. If you haven't seem the threads the link is below.
EVAP Removal Thread: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...r-way-1207469/
Once I had the new pressure relief valve and filter installed I ran into a few issues. Summers are very hot here in Arizona, and I was experiencing very strong fuel smells coming from the car. Similar to what sometimes happens with completely stock S2000s, but it was happening all the time. It was hot enough outside the garage would start to smell very strong of fuel, and at stoplights with the windows down I was getting strong whiffs of fuel as well. Basically the new EVAP system was working as designed. The tank could build a bit of pressure (so it's not always just open), but when it releases that pressure it's pushing fuel vapor out which is where the smell is coming from.
I had been looking for a way to incorporate a charcoal canister into the system somehow to help reduce the smell. I had been searching on an off for the past couple of years to try and find some OEM or aftermarket system that would fit in the spot that the factory EVAP system used to live. My concern was that without a strong vacuum source there really wouldn't be a way to purge the system and that it would eventually fuel soak and need to be replaced. I ended up searching Google again and stumbled across some billet charcoal canister that wasn't there the day before. I started looking into it and it looked like it fit the bill. Fairly small, and straight forward, serviceable so I could open it and replace the material should it ever get soaked with fuel, and it was billet. It looked like a quality part. As I started looking into it I found a phone number on their site and realized the area code was from here in Arizona, and then found out their shop was located just a few minutes from my house. I ended up give the company a call, spoke with Tim and explained everything I was trying to do. He seemed to think that the canister would work perfectly for my set up and offered for me to swing by and see what we could do.
I initially elected to go with a 6in version as I wasn't sure how I was going to fit it, but I've since revised it to the 8in version. It's a pretty simple design, it's a billet tube with end caps that hold several mesh filters and O rings in place. You can use their fittings or add some -6 ORB fittings to make it work for your set up. I tried a few different layouts and ended up fitting it by laying it in the old EVAP tray that bolts to the OEM rear tie bar. The only modifications I did to the car were all two holes to that tray so that I could secure the D clamps. It rests on the tray, doesn't vibrate or make noise, and has eliminated the fuel vapor smell. Now when the pressure relief valve needs to vent rather that let it out into the atmosphere it vents it into the charcoal canister, which then vents out right in front of the air deflector for the driver side rear tire. The big concern from the Vapor Trapper team was that I might get some liquid fuel depending on how the S2000s fuel tank worked. To test that I completely topped off the S2000 with gas, took it to the track, and then the next day took the canister back to them and we opened it up and poured out all the charcoal from the inside. It was bone dry.
This thing works perfect and is another piece I'm going to recommend to everyone who is trying to reduce the fuel smell when running an aftermarket ECU or who no longer utilized the OEM EVAP system. It's excellent. It just works and completely solved the problem for me. Full disclosure I paid full price for my canister but the people at vapor trapper let me swap it out for a larger one, and thew in a few fittings to help me mock everything up as I was trying to figure out how to fit it. They also drilled out the holes for me on my EVAP tray as I didn't have a drill press at home. If you are running the set up from the EVAP thread I linked above you owe it to yourself to check these things out.
Charcoal Canister: https://www.classicperformancerestor...-vapor-trapper