Yup, those are en route.

 

I was told by GoTuning that the J's hood is not compatible with the mugen intake. Hence, I first went with a Mugen hood and then ASM.

Can you show where you drilled and bolted for the harness? I'm hoping I will get to do this sometime in the spring. I'd appreciate it.

 

Definitely no need for hood pins with something like the Mugen, ASM, Amuse hood. Unless you are running a version without any sort of framing. Could save a little weight getting rid of the latching mechanism but not sure I would be drilling any hood pin holes in the J's hood if you don't plan on keeping it.

 

Loving the Ruby ASM seats too bad I don't fit in them anymore lol otherwise I would rock them as well in my build.

 

Yea. I had a ct engineering intake when I ordered the j's hood. That's the problem with ordering things from Japan. Get it 4 months later and your setup changes. I'm going to test fit it and see how much I'd have to cut for it to fit with the mugen intake. I do like how this hood looks a lot.

As for my harnesses, I had a guy who really knows about racing seats/harness setups do all the work for me. They need to be bolted down based on your seat position. But mine are connected to eye bolts which are screwed into various plates welded or sandwiched from the underside of the car. Can't even see them without removing the seats because there just isn't much clearance in this car.

 

Definitely no need for hood pins with something like the Mugen, ASM, Amuse hood. Unless you are running a version without any sort of framing. Could save a little weight getting rid of the latching mechanism but not sure I would be drilling any hood pin holes in the J's hood if you don't plan on keeping it.
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Oh I'm not doing any modifications to the hood until I decide I'm going to keep it. I really want to make it work though. Price is good and it should be pretty functional.

 

I've been getting weird sounds coming from my right rear for awhile. I was guessing it was my wheel bearing, but I really don't know what to listen for. Decided I should probably just swap them out to see if the sound goes away. One thing I noticed was the previous owner had the driver side rear retorqued the extra 60 degrees while the right side wasn't. Turns out the right side was failing. Not sure if that's purely coincidence or if that "TSB" really solves the premature bearing failures.





Getting the hub carriers off was pretty easy. I have a press, but not the right tools to secure the carrier on a flat plane so I just took them to Honda of Dublin to press them out for me. I figured they must have done dozens of these and know what they are doing. They finished in a couple hours and I brought them back home to install. I got the driver's side back on and noticed that the calipers weren't clearing the rotors because they didn't press that side all the way in. I was pretty pissed because I just torqued everything back to spec and was wrapping up that side. Luckily, I was able to just press the hub into the carrier with my press and problem solved. Such a waste of time though.



Looks like they dented my dust/heat shield on the driver's side as well. I had to bend it back into shape. Next time I'll just take them to a local machine shop.



I had evasive send me some hub centric rings for my wheels too because that gap was a bit unnerving. Got the car back together and torqued the axle nuts down to factory spec and then another 60 degrees. It's surprisingly easy to do with a new nut. My wife helped me flush the fluid with Project Mu and then I took the car out for a test drive. Wow what a difference! The sounds coming from the rear of the car are all gone.

On another note, I turn off traction control every time I get into this car. The other night I was coming home and forgot to do it. When I was going around a freeway onramp, the traction light was flashing like crazy. I wasn't even going fast. Is TC that intrusive in this car? Very surprising unless something is wrong with mine. I wish there was an easy way to disable it for good.

 

No different than the M3, it is based on a difference in wheel speed from the front wheels and the rear wheels. It assumes a given tire size diameter front and rear so changing that can change how intrusive it is. I have never felt it is all that intrusive the few times I have forgotten to turn it off. The latest FlashPro software has an option to disable it automatically but it says not to check that box on cars that have TC. I have been too afraid to try it, haha.

 

I always turned it off on my M3 whenever I started the car too, but I don't remember it being that intrusive. Then again this is the first time I'm running a square setup. My guess is that the increased grip in the front makes it more sensitive?

Yea I did a search on the flash pro thing and it seems like it doesn't really do anything. I read someone turned it off, but the light would still flash.

 

Yep, once you move to a square tire setup, I have the problem where VSA kicks on during turn in (even when I'm quasi putzing around). On the old staggered tire setup it wasn't nearly as bad and I didn't have to turn it off on the street. I think as Tut pointed out it's just the way the system was programmed. With the square setup the car turns in amazingly well (with almost a hint of oversteer) to the point that if you were to lift throttle on turning in, I wouldn't be surprised if the rear came around in some instances. I think VSA "senses" this and prevents it.