When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Awesome work! Track day on a new turbo setup and no major issues. What oil were you running? I've been a big fan of Motul 300V. I've found it to maintain viscosity very well with thermal loading.
Ya I was quite surprised in a sense but obviously very happy. I'm happy that the SOS v-mount kit really does work. I'm always expecting unexpected issues so it's nice when things work like they should. I did no additional ducting for the v-mount and just stock plastics no splitter. I had the a/c sitting in the staging lanes and when coming off track.
Oil was 5W30 Castrol Synthetic Edge in the Gold bottle. I've been talking to a bunch of folks and I will definitely switch to w40 and run the Motul 300V. Seems stupid to not run it at this point. Good to know the oil can maintain viscosity with heat. On that video I posted above (3rd session on Saturday) where I was short shifting, oil temps only hit 240-250's. On Sunday when revving it out more and it was a little hotter I saw 260-270. All in all it's definitely manageable and I could take a lap a little easy to cool things down as needed.
When can we expect another motoIQ article of your car running...?
So the car hasn't moved since the last event except to be washed. It was pretty filthy as you'd expect. One thing that's annoying on the street is all the gauges in my face. It's bad enough with analog gauges but the AEM gauges with different colors is a bit obnoxious. The plan is to get a different analog boost gauge (anyone want an AEM Xboost gauge?) and move the wideband to the radio button. So I will switch to a single gauge pod not a double. I've never heard of SRTI before, but seems like some people run them and they work. Here's a link to the gauge: https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/s...perial-30-psi/ It's nice looking/clean, and has peak/warning features which is nice.
Any trick to cutting out the mode button for the radio? Just go real slow and open it up with a dremel? If anyone has tips please chime in. I did look into the SOS panel but for $90 I guess I might as well keep the functionality of the other buttons.
So a few small updates since my last post. Washed the car and changed the engine oil. I thought about doing an oil analysis and got lazy, maybe next time. You need to run the car and get the oil hot and circulating before taking a sample. Anyway.. As I was changing the oil I had a strange problem. After removing the oil filter, I tried threading on a new one and it started to bind about a half rotation or so in. I've cross threaded plenty of shit in my lifetime to know that if something starts to bind, you don't just force it on. As a refresher, I'm running the SOS 90 degree filter adapter, which uses the Nsx/legend oil filter (it's a little larger). If I've learned anything in life, it's that s**t happens. I bought a box of 5 filters from Acura, so wth, maybe it's bad (even though I've never had a bad honda filter before), so I tried another one. Same problem.. Now I started to think wtf.. Of course first thing to then do is verify I have the correct filters (I do), then check the threads.
Threads look good, not a nick in them. Afterall, this is the first oil change since installing it and there shouldn't be. Checked the filters and wondered if I got a bad batch. The threads looked ok to me.
I called SOS to see if there was any previous issues with the filters and to double check the part # and they said nope, never seen an issue. Next course of action was ask on facepage. It's pretty active and I figured I'd get a response. After posting I got a bunch of retarded responses (someone even saying the threads looked bad) and finally a few very helpful ones. One thing I've learned about the FB groups is, people love to throw their 2 cents in, regardless of whether what they're saying has any value. Maybe it's just too easy/fast to post on FB vs forums? Either way, I find the quality of responses on forums to be an order of magnitude higher, problem is they just don't get as many eyeballs. People love to post stupid shit on FB.. Getting back on topic.. Turns out the threads are machined a little tight on the SOS filter adapter. It's a common problem that many people seem to have. The *solution* is/was to just force it on and it'll thread on and get easier. I'm not a big fan of that solution so I opted to just reuse the oil filter for now. I bought a M22x1.5mm tap that I will use on the oil filter before the next oil change. I haven't tested it out but it should work.
Anyway, that was a long winded post about some minutia but it's a good reminder that there's no fit like OEM. Not a big deal to me as I've learned that over the years but just another reminder.
Putting in good oil. 5w40 Motul You can see the compressed air filter in the picture. When washing the car I threw a plastic bag over the filter and forgot to remove it before starting the car..
One thing I changed that I'm very happy about is the gauges. It would've been nice to have got it right the first time but live and learn. I went with the STRI 60mm boost gauge I linked above. Only minor complaint is that the button for peak/hold/warning is wired externally (unlike the old greddy gauges and others that had a button on the face of the gauge). It means you have to drill one more hole and I opted to put it on the side of the gaugepod neatly behind the gauge. I also just opted for the SOS gauge panel over butchering the OEM piece. It's simple/clean and works. I moved the wideband gauge there.
Now driving on the streets the lights are much less in your face and still visible. The analog boost gauge is much preferred over the digital aem. We all have an inner ricer, and mine runs strong. There's nothing wrong with the F&F style with the dual gauge pods (especially for a track only car), but the digital gauges pushed it over the top for me. Too many blinking lights on the pillar.
I swapped the street pads back on and enjoy driving this thing on the street. It's a lot of fun with more power. I'm still waiting on puddymod for the 3.63 diff but hopefully I'll get it soon. I am also going to switch to the rx8 rear calipers with mustang rotors. The Urge rear rotors have worked well but not having to think about swapping in new with used pads with the oem calipers and having expensive urge rotors should be nice. Fortunately I haven't had an issue with the oem calipers seizing/not sliding like others on here, but I figure it's only a matter of time.
You technically put a motorcycle oil in your engine, which is also formulated for a wet clutch/gearbox
That's good right? I'm not that smart so I'm relying on you guys to help me out. It does have a cool neon color to it. Should make the car faster I bet (or help finding leaks).
I have sucked in a filter before. You remember the second you've started it.
Or in case you're dumb like me, the second time you started it (and it died).
I would probably swap to the regular version of 300v sooner, rather than later. I don't foresee "damage", but I could not find concrete information. There are differences, I'd recommend getting familiar with them. BITOG has a discussion on it, actually.
I would probably swap to the regular version of 300v sooner, rather than later. I don't foresee "damage", but I could not find concrete information. There are differences, I'd recommend getting familiar with them. BITOG has a discussion on it, actually.
I had no idea there was even a difference, thanks Jason. I will definitely look into it.
As I was changing the oil I had a strange problem. After removing the oil filter, I tried threading on a new one and it started to bind about a half rotation or so in. I've cross threaded plenty of shit in my lifetime to know that if something starts to bind, you don't just force it on. As a refresher, I'm running the SOS 90 degree filter adapter, which uses the Nsx/legend oil filter (it's a little larger). If I've learned anything in life, it's that s**t happens. I bought a box of 5 filters from Acura, so wth, maybe it's bad (even though I've never had a bad honda filter before), so I tried another one. Same problem.. Now I started to think wtf.. Of course first thing to then do is verify I have the correct filters (I do), then check the threads.
Originally Posted by SlowTeg
. I am also going to switch to the rx8 rear calipers with mustang rotors.
Definitely check the hardware on your SBG Sprint Kit. Some of the aluminum hardware (main bracket, and 4 black hex head bolts) definitely feel like you're stripping/cross-threading them.
Definitely check the hardware on your SBG Sprint Kit. Some of the aluminum hardware (main bracket, and 4 black hex head bolts) definitely feel like you're stripping/cross-threading them.
Thanks Albert. It just came in yesterday. I still need to buy the rx8 calipers. and figure out what pads to buy as well. I was hoping to have people (Iike yourself ) post some feedback first. I have no experience with Ferodo pads which is what they recommend. I've used Hawk pads quite a bit which are pretty good and usually not too pricey, carbotech I'm not a huge fan of, and I'm running PFCs now. Only complaint with Hawks is supposedly the dust is corrosive if you don't wash the car. Currently for the track I'm running PFC 08's up front with the ST40 kit and PFC 97's in the rear on the Urge rear rotors. For the street I run the stoptech street pads with the st40 and OEM honda rear pads, but honestly these days with the turbo some pads with a little more bite wouldn't hurt. If anyone has some opinions I'm open to suggestions. I consider the Hawk HP+ being a good dual purpose street/light track pad with good bite, but I'm not sure how the bias is f/r with the new rear kit with hp+ in front and rear. I'm going to keep the PFC 08's up front for the track and try to find a good rear pad for the rx8 calipers to keep a similar balance.
05-28-2021, 04:35 AM
I'm not that smart so I'm relying on you guys to help me out. It does have a cool neon color to it. Should make the car faster I bet (or help finding leaks).
