Car and Bike Talk Discussions and comparisons of cars and motorcycles of all makes and models.

Lets compare our cheap cars (dollar per reliability per horsepower) I am KING! :D

Thread Tools
 
Old 12-23-2014, 07:57 AM
  #81  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Kingtal0n's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by odb812
Honest mistake on the internet tough guy. Since it followed your response about the car holding up on track, it seemed directed at me. It's hard to tell someone's tone when you're reading the words off a screen.

It's ironic you say people in car accidents about to die is something you find serious but earlier you were saying your car would walk an 80k car from a stoplight. I'm not getting into a safety or street racing debate here, but there comes a time when fooling around on the street gets old. If you're this into cars, you chose a 240, and you're not a drifter, then you are going to do a track day or autocross at some point. May as well go try it out now or ride along if you don't think your car will hold up.
I thought about that, I should add I meant only from 0-45(limit~) unless on a highway, there is no way I would take my car too fast on a city road. One hole or dip in the wrong spot can cause an accident. I would love to track my car but its my only car. I exaggerated about it falling apart a little bit to poke fun at myself, I am sure it would do O.K. for while, it has most of those upgrades, especially brakes.



The F20c/22c is a fully forged motor that is easily reliable at the 500whp (more than double the stock output) all day long. Please take a step back and read about it partner. I've been on this forum for a long time and have seen many builds come and go. Please educate yourself before spouting off claims that apply to B series civic motors. They don't apply here.

As far as the mustang is concerned, I don't have time to dig up articles but it's widely known that for $6-10k you can easily have a 10 second foxbody mustang. A running decent example 5.0 can be had for under $5k, sometimes even $3.5k. Rolling chassis? Even less. Slicks and $5k worth of motor mods and you have a fast car.
There are always rare examples of engines that should have died, but did not. I know of a stock block 2jz that lived for years instead of weeks at 1,000. I did *not* know that the F20c had OEM forged pistons, however. Is that true you say? A forged piston in a naturally aspirated engine? What gives? I -will- be looking into that one for sure. A RWD factory forged engine with high compression at 2.0L should be able to withstand 500rwhp daily reliably if you used the right octane. Ill give it that. I wasn't aware Honda stuck forged slugs into anything from the factory.... (this is why I am here, to learn more, thank you)

As to the mustang. Eh. They are ugly
I agree they can be cheaply done, but it just feels dirty, Ford and all that....
Remember that fast isn't the only thing I am after. the car has to get 25+mpg too, as a reliable daily. It should also maintain it's value, I want to be able to sell it for every penny I've invested. Slicks and nitrous are not options. I actually own a roller 89-92' 5.0 engine with 88k miles, its just sitting. Its only worth like $400 though... Annnd, 5k of "mods" to any engine should net you any power you desire, nearly, since thats enough cash to buy a huge turbo and manifold which are the only two real pre-reqs, everything else just supports it. I wouldn't trust a random 5.0 stock block at 500bhp though. No f@*#& way. Pretty sure you have to open one of those up to support much more than 400.

So you are saying this engine here,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-S2000-...ae88ae&vxp=mtr

Has forged pistons? And I assume a nice 10:1 at least. I bet a bit of methanol injection and a well designed manifold/turbocharger setup would push it into the 450rwhp range on 93 octane in that case. It has certainly caught my attention. hat motor comes in stock S2000 or from somewhere else? Ill look into it no need to reply.
Old 12-23-2014, 08:08 AM
  #82  
Registered User

 
Marioshi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,094
Received 17 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Mr.E.G.
Originally Posted by Marioshi' timestamp='1419271600' post='23444603
Personally, I would rather have something that worked out of the box. Engine swaps are great and all but a C5z06 can be had for 16k all day. It only has 405 hp though

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4813640441.html

Yikes. I paid way more than that for mine. D'oh!

But seriously, I bet that car is beat to hell. I looked at pristine Z06s, mostly, but I also saw some so-so ones as well, and they were all well north of $20k. I paid $27k for mine with 23,000 miles on the clock, perfect interior, near-perfect paint (for some reason there's rubber specks all over the rear fenders ;-) ), bolt-ons, clutch and a built tranny, and, most importantly, nice aftermarket seats. I don't doubt that I overpaid slightly, but I wanted it equipped a certain way and I wanted it in a certain condition, so if I had gone cheaper I would have either had a car I was dissatisfied with or I would have turned right around and started spending the money to mod it. I looked at a bunch of Vettes and the overwhelming majority of them were in rough shape. I think you know more about Corvettes than I do, but color me skeptical of the notion that there is a sub $25k C5 Z06 worth buying.
Maybe it's more regional than I realized and I need to buy them all up. There are about 15 for sale around here and they are all listed for under 25k.
Old 12-23-2014, 08:54 AM
  #83  

 
Dizings2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 2,129
Received 158 Likes on 97 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
Originally Posted by odb812' timestamp='1419315197' post='23445205
Honest mistake on the internet tough guy. Since it followed your response about the car holding up on track, it seemed directed at me. It's hard to tell someone's tone when you're reading the words off a screen.

It's ironic you say people in car accidents about to die is something you find serious but earlier you were saying your car would walk an 80k car from a stoplight. I'm not getting into a safety or street racing debate here, but there comes a time when fooling around on the street gets old. If you're this into cars, you chose a 240, and you're not a drifter, then you are going to do a track day or autocross at some point. May as well go try it out now or ride along if you don't think your car will hold up.
I thought about that, I should add I meant only from 0-45(limit~) unless on a highway, there is no way I would take my car too fast on a city road. One hole or dip in the wrong spot can cause an accident. I would love to track my car but its my only car. I exaggerated about it falling apart a little bit to poke fun at myself, I am sure it would do O.K. for while, it has most of those upgrades, especially brakes.



The F20c/22c is a fully forged motor that is easily reliable at the 500whp (more than double the stock output) all day long. Please take a step back and read about it partner. I've been on this forum for a long time and have seen many builds come and go. Please educate yourself before spouting off claims that apply to B series civic motors. They don't apply here.

As far as the mustang is concerned, I don't have time to dig up articles but it's widely known that for $6-10k you can easily have a 10 second foxbody mustang. A running decent example 5.0 can be had for under $5k, sometimes even $3.5k. Rolling chassis? Even less. Slicks and $5k worth of motor mods and you have a fast car.
There are always rare examples of engines that should have died, but did not. I know of a stock block 2jz that lived for years instead of weeks at 1,000. I did *not* know that the F20c had OEM forged pistons, however. Is that true you say? A forged piston in a naturally aspirated engine? What gives? I -will- be looking into that one for sure. A RWD factory forged engine with high compression at 2.0L should be able to withstand 500rwhp daily reliably if you used the right octane. Ill give it that. I wasn't aware Honda stuck forged slugs into anything from the factory.... (this is why I am here, to learn more, thank you)

As to the mustang. Eh. They are ugly
I agree they can be cheaply done, but it just feels dirty, Ford and all that....
Remember that fast isn't the only thing I am after. the car has to get 25+mpg too, as a reliable daily. It should also maintain it's value, I want to be able to sell it for every penny I've invested. Slicks and nitrous are not options. I actually own a roller 89-92' 5.0 engine with 88k miles, its just sitting. Its only worth like $400 though... Annnd, 5k of "mods" to any engine should net you any power you desire, nearly, since thats enough cash to buy a huge turbo and manifold which are the only two real pre-reqs, everything else just supports it. I wouldn't trust a random 5.0 stock block at 500bhp though. No f@*#& way. Pretty sure you have to open one of those up to support much more than 400.

So you are saying this engine here,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-S2000-...ae88ae&vxp=mtr

Has forged pistons? And I assume a nice 10:1 at least. I bet a bit of methanol injection and a well designed manifold/turbocharger setup would push it into the 450rwhp range on 93 octane in that case. It has certainly caught my attention. hat motor comes in stock S2000 or from somewhere else? Ill look into it no need to reply.
Yes sir.. all F20/22c S2000 motors have forged internals. Not sure why, i guess Honda wanted the longevity with the revs? Either way... you don't need to lower compression on our motors for 500whp. In fact I'm not sure that you even need to lower for 700whp either.

You're right, the 302 isn't the strongest... but with a budget of $5k for motor mods, you can easily buy a 351W, and put the heads/cam/intake to that and it will be a monster. The mustang is light enough that with that power I bet you'd get 25mpg highway. Probably more depending on gearing. If you started doing weight reduction to mustang, definitely.
Old 02-13-2015, 07:11 AM
  #84  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Kingtal0n's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hello guise, hope yall had a great holiday.

SO its been about 180,000 miles on this engine.
In the last 100,000 miles, I Have fixed/changed:
-front main seal
-radiator
-air filter
-fuel pump
-trans oil

And it will be due for a clutch in the next 2-3 months.
I document all the work I do, have a whole thread dedicated to this car
Old 02-21-2015, 05:01 PM
  #85  
Registered User

 
Da New Yawka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 854
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

A K24a2 all motor swapped CRX/ Eg Civic will walk your 240 and meet your money goals.

Old 02-22-2015, 10:52 AM
  #86  

 
MaximumAttack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 157
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Man, I hate the idiotic Nissan and Honda fanboys that continually talk shit about each other... This guy comes from Zilvia, and there are a ton of tards on there who have never driven a Honda anything in their lives who will continually talk shit about "Honda boys" and lump the NSX and S2000 in with FWD economy cars just because they see other people do it and think it makes them cool...

but some of you guys on here are just as bad... talking about "class" like you are above a 240sx owner... Please... these are sports cars. They are meant for 2 things: performance and fun. Nobody gives a shit about your self-perceived status.

The fact is both cars have plenty of pros and cons. I should know. I own both an AP2 and an S14.

S2000 PROS:
-From the factory, it has way better suspension design and overall handling feel. Every movement feels immediate, polished, and tight. If I had the choice, I would prefer to have double wishbones all around on every car I own from now until death. Same goes for the mid-engine layout (rear-mid would be preferred, but front-mid is a good compromise).
-Engine is built to higher standards from the factory.
-More reliable, more well built, in general
-Big aftermarket with some very high quality parts. There are more real dry carbon parts available, more real functional aero parts available, etc.

S2000 CONS:
-You will pay dearly for much of those high quality parts. Almost everything is more expensive for the S2000 than the 240sx. Many things are simply absurdly expensive. The cost of hardtops alone are ridiculous compared to the price you can get them for for Miatas.
-Great engine, but not turbocharged from the factory. Therefore, not as much potential while only spending minimal amounts of money.
-Weak diff, weak transmission. We all know this.
-Poor aero in stock form.
-Not important to many, but not a great choice for drifting... I don't see that as a bad thing, because it excels at grip driving, but there are a lot of cars that can do both well simultaneously.


240sx PROS:
-Way cheaper initial cost
-Huge aftermarket
-Came with a turbocharged engine in most of the world, giving the option of cheap power to just about anyone
-Not the most sophisticated or highest performing suspension design, but being light and having a classic front-engine, RWD layout is a great start. It can have very good handling with upgraded suspension.
-Arguably a smarter, better choice to build a full racecar out of due to replacement chassis/parts availability and cost
-Great for clowning around and having fun... burnouts, donuts, drifting, etc... Immature you say? Maybe, but still fun activities.

240sx CONS:
-In stock form, the suspension is horrible, the brakes are horrible, and the car just doesn't feel that great to drive. Doesn't really feel like a sports car when stock, honestly.
-Will never handle as well as an S2000 until you start getting into very complicated and expensive custom suspension fabrication, like what you see in the highest level of time attack racing (custom double wishbone setups, custom subframes with different geometry, etc.)
-Huge aftermarket, but less than half of the parts available are high quality. Lots of cheap Chinese/Korean junk out there. Not much in the way of real carbon, real aero, etc.
-Hard to find non-beat up examples
-Not as nice or as comfortalbe to daily drive
-Not a great car for dates lol


Both classics. I see the merits in owning both. Wish more enthusiasts could look at cars from any brand objectively...
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dat boi
Car and Bike Talk
19
12-14-2009 09:04 AM
xxForgedxx
Car and Bike Talk
75
08-27-2008 08:47 PM
Dolemike
Carolinas
9
05-12-2008 01:27 PM
zero_to60
UK & Ireland S2000 Community
68
04-30-2005 12:03 AM
JettaGT
Car and Bike Talk
23
12-07-2004 01:41 PM



Quick Reply: Lets compare our cheap cars (dollar per reliability per horsepower) I am KING! :D



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:51 AM.