GSXR1000
Busamav is right you have to ask yourself what your priority is, ultimate grip or longevity, or a compromise?
Bridgestone BT 014's have served me well and are a good compromise, ultimate grip at the expense of wear then probably something like Pirelli Super Corsa Pro's or some other very sticky tyre like them.
For ultimate longevity then you could try some touring type tyre's but i wouldn't recommend it.
and San , if you say you really do need some sticky tyres within the next 12 months ,
then I suggest you get in contact with a MotoGP team
THE most important thing for you to watch this coming year is that you havent squared the bastards off ( no insult intended )
Seriously , check the pressures every ride , and if you have the dosh available , get the suspension set up "for you " at somewhere like MC Technics
That
then I suggest you get in contact with a MotoGP team
THE most important thing for you to watch this coming year is that you havent squared the bastards off ( no insult intended )
Seriously , check the pressures every ride , and if you have the dosh available , get the suspension set up "for you " at somewhere like MC Technics
That

I probably will square them off.
But my rear is pretty much on 1mm, so I need o replace it. I may as well get another BT015 for now.

Bob, MC Technics? I've e-mailed them, but how does it work? Do they come to you, or you go to them?
you go to them San , they are in the Newmarket area .
If I were you , i would just ride the bike for a season .
I will ask a couple of lads who have K7's what tyres they are running , one of them is a lunatic full stop ,
and the other is the best wheelie guy I have seen around so he will know sfa about front tyres .
If I were you , i would just ride the bike for a season .
I will ask a couple of lads who have K7's what tyres they are running , one of them is a lunatic full stop ,
and the other is the best wheelie guy I have seen around so he will know sfa about front tyres .
here you go , his response word for word,
he is anal about set up and prep though
hi bob, were all good down this end for the k7 it does need a lot of tweaks to get the best from it so heres the basics to get him started..
i use metz racetecs with the 190/55 rear......soft front/med rear
drop the forks through the yokes till 9mm is showing above top yoke..
set the fr pre load to one third of overall adjustment [soft] and fiddle with damping to suit...
rear..back off the pre load till you get about 15mm of static sag and again fidle with damping [i forget the actual amount of clicks as i do it by feel rather than suggested amount of clicks] tell him to get mentally aware of the requirements of high and low speed damping so he understands it before he sets it up
next is the electronic steering damper.......drain oil and replace with 7.5w..
all this will help turn in and help keep it on the straight and narrow....however if he is a loon like me he'll want to order up a chain with an extra 2 links, it badly needs the extra wheelbase, otherwise in loony-mode it will spit you off the back whilst shaking its head!! the weight distribution is not as good as the k3/k4.....it needs more forward weight [hence the extra wheelbase via chain]
as for power tweaks......
order up 2 more short velocity stacks and fit......bmc race filter.....block off the pair system but keep the electronics to prevent fi lights......
the stock headers are ti and of good enough profile to negate the need for a full system, so a half system/slipon is all thats req [dont get any of the twin can settups as they keep the restrictive cat part of the stock system]
cheap powercomander from ebay and abasic map.....
all the above will result in 180 bhp @the wheel and a bike nimble enough to use it
he is anal about set up and prep though
hi bob, were all good down this end for the k7 it does need a lot of tweaks to get the best from it so heres the basics to get him started..
i use metz racetecs with the 190/55 rear......soft front/med rear
drop the forks through the yokes till 9mm is showing above top yoke..
set the fr pre load to one third of overall adjustment [soft] and fiddle with damping to suit...
rear..back off the pre load till you get about 15mm of static sag and again fidle with damping [i forget the actual amount of clicks as i do it by feel rather than suggested amount of clicks] tell him to get mentally aware of the requirements of high and low speed damping so he understands it before he sets it up
next is the electronic steering damper.......drain oil and replace with 7.5w..
all this will help turn in and help keep it on the straight and narrow....however if he is a loon like me he'll want to order up a chain with an extra 2 links, it badly needs the extra wheelbase, otherwise in loony-mode it will spit you off the back whilst shaking its head!! the weight distribution is not as good as the k3/k4.....it needs more forward weight [hence the extra wheelbase via chain]
as for power tweaks......
order up 2 more short velocity stacks and fit......bmc race filter.....block off the pair system but keep the electronics to prevent fi lights......
the stock headers are ti and of good enough profile to negate the need for a full system, so a half system/slipon is all thats req [dont get any of the twin can settups as they keep the restrictive cat part of the stock system]
cheap powercomander from ebay and abasic map.....
all the above will result in 180 bhp @the wheel and a bike nimble enough to use it
Some sound advice there if you want to go faster, but if i was you San then i would just concentrate on learning to deal with the bike as is and tweaking it as and when you feel you really need to.
I would get a summers riding done on it first to really get a feel for it before fiddling with it unduly
I would get a summers riding done on it first to really get a feel for it before fiddling with it unduly
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