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Originally Posted by xDeLiRiOuSx,Nov 17 2007, 11:52 AM
Bump for a good modification that took me about 5 minutes this morning. Easy and quick. As mentioned in the previous posts, the 2007 model has a basket instead of a plain cover. TO remove, take out the center screw, push in on the two push tabs on the sides, then just pull basket out with a little force (much less than removing the stereo cover).
Originally Posted by prodriverex,Aug 5 2007, 11:56 AM
OK, just done on mine today, AP2 2007 model.. Tried twice. Now I can open/close the roof on the move.
Ref to the first post here, i tried the mod but fail in picking the right wire.
The different explanation here in S2ki from SHC Forum (mostly user from SIN) lies with the S2K posted here are mostly LHD. SIN ver RHD. Sticker marking of the CTM (Convertible Top Module) is stuck on the other side of the unit in comparison to US ver. Just take cue from the position of the interlocking of the connector and determine the position of the wire.
My pic shown here. Taken from the passenger seat view (LHS).
Left connector, B/W wire. The interlocking is facing below, not visible from the picture. But S2Ki site show the roof folding electronic face the other side up, probably because they are located on the RHS due to LHD.
Whole mod take about 10min. Taking out the panel is easier if you put your palm into the back of teh panl and feel the 4 corners and push the panel point by point. Then the middle part. Push 45 deg downward.
I dun like to cut the wire so decided on pulling the B/W color wire out of the connector.
To do so, unplug the CTM left connector. Use a mini screwdriver push into the corners of the connector and pry open the white piece that flush with the grey connector. With the white piece move out of the grey connector, pull the B/W wire out of the way and pull it out of the white piece. Push back the white plastic piece and push back the connector into place. Replace back the panel.
One observation from the first try. I open up the roof while working on it so that it is brighter inside. But I did pull out the B/W wire and tried closing back the roof but it move up like 10cm and stop, like there isn't enough torque to continue closing. Strange. So I tried later today to do so with the roof closed and strange enough, pulling out the same wire and tested, it works!
Thanks for the heads up from the first post.
Great post on RHD cars. Wouldn't know this beforehand. Gotta check this out later today.
Originally Posted by bgoetting,Jun 24 2006, 11:28 PM
What's missing here is that before you can pull this panel off, you first have to remove a screw from the center of the panel, which is visible inside the "pocket". Also on the extreme left and right side of the pockets are 2 plastic pins which need to be removed. They are spring loaded and if you press at the center with a pointed object, the center will pop out, allowing you to pull the pin out. When these three anchors are removed, then you can pull the panel off and its only held by the 6 clips.
Wish I had read this first. I got my panel off without removing the pins and totally destroyed both of them. Anyone know where I can find replacements? It seems pretty secure without them.
Originally Posted by spyhunter,Jul 15 2005, 05:14 AM
Ok guys, I have big news about this thread, because I have done this mod now, and I can tell you that what ruexp67 said about cutting the green/white wire is valid, the BRAKE light in the cluster will still operate normally this way.
When you ground the remaining wire going into the soft top controller, you are telling it that the e-brake is always on, but the rest of the car does not know that when the wire is cut. So there is no need for a switch or anything like that.
To recap, you cut the green/white wire and ground the part going into the soft top controller (there are 2 black ground wires conveniently on the same plug that you can tap it into). The part that is going back into the car, you just let hang, or insulate if you feel necessary. As long as this part is not grounded the BRAKE light will not stay on, yet works as usual with the pulling of the e-brake.
This is a relief to me, because one clicking the e-brake and/or installing a switch was too much for me, I was prepared to lose the functionality of the BRAKE light in the cluster just to have this mod fully work, but am overjoyed that it works with no adverse affects...
It was painful to cut into my new '05s wiring, but I feel it was for a worthy cause, I don't ever forsee wanting such a silly protection feature, nor think anybody purchasing my car in the future would miss either... I did attempt to remove the wires from the plugs, but gave up, especially considering I needed to leave the e-brake wire in the plug in order to ground it after cutting it.
I considered asking a dealership to help me remove the wires, but I can just imagine that discussion... "You want to what??", and I can even imagine them not being allowed to circumvent any type of protections on the cars they service anyway...
So there you have it! I'd like to Thank the people that started this thread, and hope many others of you find my information useful in performing this mod...
SH
thanks for the switchless method - works great, i just cut the speed sensor wire (blk/white) and cut the ebrake wire (grn/white) and grounded it to the blk wire to the left..
First off, here's a tip on removing the dash panel. On my 2001 I was able to reach up from behind and pinch/push the three lower clips to lossen up the lower half. It was too tight a fit to try that at the top but it only took about 2 seconds to free up the three clips at the top using a trim tool to pop each clip, one-at-a-time by inserting the flat edge into the area just above each clip. Here's a photo of the tool. It's a standard GM (I think) trim removal tool that costs about a $1 and is available at any auto aparts store.
And by the way, I'll mention prying out the sides slightly with your finger nail on the gray connector where they contact the zigzag teeth of the white lock eases in sliding it to an unlocked position.
My biggest difficulty trying to remove the wire. Perhaps mine was jammed. But, in any case, I finally was able to remove it.
I used a dental cleaning tool to poke the plastic tab (which you can not see). I came in from the non-harness side and inserted the tool into the tapped (inner) side of the proper hole looking from the bottom. I pushed straight up (as Billman250 advised me, picture ET the extraterrestial and Eliot, finger to finger) and at same time pushed it away. This freed up the wire, which has a box shaped metal connector on the end.
Originally Posted by bgoetting,Jun 25 2006, 01:28 AM
Did it to my MY2006.
The mod worked perfectly. I cut the speed sensor wire and grounded the brake wire to the frame using alligator clips. This was exactly the same mod for my Boxster.
I don't subscribe to the "don't disable all the safety features" mentality. These laws are crazy. You are driving a 3000lb machine at 70 mph where the slightest twitch of your arm could kill you and others, but you can't be trusted not to accidently put up the top at highway speed, causing damage and injury. People have used tops like this for decades without these "safety features". It's the same mentality that causes some Nav units to not work at all when the vehicle is in motion. The companies are paranoid of being sued by idiots and their lawyers. Rant Rant Rant
I would add that getting the dash panel off has not been well explained yet. I read the threads here, yanked at it a few times then had a professional do it. What's missing here is that before you can pull this panel off, you first have to remove a screw from the center of the panel, which is visible inside the "pocket". Also on the extreme left and right side of the pockets are 2 plastic pins which need to be removed. They are spring loaded and if you press at the center with a pointed object, the center will pop out, allowing you to pull the pin out. When these three anchors are removed, then you can pull the panel off and its only held by the 6 clips.
Just did this. It took longer to get the tools out and get in the car than it did to do the whole thing. Figured I'd add another blurb to boost confidence for anyone with a MY06+ that's still on the fence. It's a great, easy modification.
On MY06+, unscrew one bolt and release the pins--press at their center with a toothpick, hex wrench, pencil etc. That extra step is the only difference for MY06+ models. Now pull the cover horizontally back with firm, consistent pressure to release all the clips. Then cut the wire. You're done "modifying" your car. Now line the clips up and push the cover back in so they all clip in. I always push each of the surfaces where the clips attach an extra time to make sure they clipped in. For MY06+, put the screw back in, reset the push-pins*, and pin them back in. That's it!
I was thinking to ground the parking brake sensor, but I felt like it was so quick to get in there that I didn't care to bother finding the ground or splicing any other wires--I was excited to try it out and since it's so quick and easy, I'll just go back in if I decide I care.
*On resetting the push-pins, I think it's self-explanatory when you see it out of the car. You move the center (part you pushed all the way in) to an all-the-way-out position. A belly button analogy (sounds dumb but I swear it will make perfect sense) is when you remove them, you have an "innie." When you reset them, you have an "outie," and you put them back like that. Then press the center to lock it into place. I didn't think to take pictures, but it's really simple, and I think that dumb metaphor will explain it well enough for anyone.
But thanks for the great DIY, and thanks for the specific bit on the MY06 about releasing the two new push-pins. They're always simple, but not always intuitive.
