Supercharger Prep - AP1
#11
Those charts are notoriously incorrect as many members have found out. I have the Novi 1220 with a 3.2" pulley. SOS chart states I should make 11.5 PSI. It registered 18 PSI on the dyno last winter at sea level.
#12
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
If I get more than what SOS states then hell you got me! Jason......since I got your eyes. Your good to tune Hondata K-Pro's right? I know you like AEM but let's just leave it at that. I have the K-Pro ready to go.
Oh and has anyone seen a setup that can monitor AF & Boost via Bluetooth phone? I don't need to add gauges that stare at me all the time. Just want it to reference when I need it.
#13
AFR isn't something that you should just be casually referencing whenever you feel the need. I consider my AFR gauge a critical component to my FI build. If my AFR gauge stops working, I would stop driving the car until it was fixed. I understand the desire to keep a clean install and not wanting to mount a potentially gaudy gauge somewhere in view; I felt the same way at first. But my single gauge pillar pod with the AEM wideband failsafe sporting the black gauge face and black bezel really isn't bad at all, and its usually the first thing that people are interested in when they get in my car.
AFR is definitely something you want staring at you all the time. Because that one time you see it displaying 18 when you're WOT at 6k RPM is the one time you're going to be thankful you knew to back off before taking it all the way to 9k. Especially with the AEM wideband failsafe that you can program to flash like a motherf'er when its reading bad news.
AFR is definitely something you want staring at you all the time. Because that one time you see it displaying 18 when you're WOT at 6k RPM is the one time you're going to be thankful you knew to back off before taking it all the way to 9k. Especially with the AEM wideband failsafe that you can program to flash like a motherf'er when its reading bad news.
#14
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
AFR isn't something that you should just be casually referencing whenever you feel the need. I consider my AFR gauge a critical component to my FI build. If my AFR gauge stops working, I would stop driving the car until it was fixed. I understand the desire to keep a clean install and not wanting to mount a potentially gaudy gauge somewhere in view; I felt the same way at first. But my single gauge pillar pod with the AEM wideband failsafe sporting the black gauge face and black bezel really isn't bad at all, and its usually the first thing that people are interested in when they get in my car.
AFR is definitely something you want staring at you all the time. Because that one time you see it displaying 18 when you're WOT at 6k RPM is the one time you're going to be thankful you knew to back off before taking it all the way to 9k. Especially with the AEM wideband failsafe that you can program to flash like a motherf'er when its reading bad news.
AFR is definitely something you want staring at you all the time. Because that one time you see it displaying 18 when you're WOT at 6k RPM is the one time you're going to be thankful you knew to back off before taking it all the way to 9k. Especially with the AEM wideband failsafe that you can program to flash like a motherf'er when its reading bad news.
#15
I have 3 SOS pulley's - feel free to hit me up if you want to dial in a specific boost setting.
I would recommend a larger(less boost) pulley to start. Then you have the headroom to turn up the boost as needed. The step up from NA to a SOS S/C is huge, don't overshoot your load with a small(high boost) pulley.
Also get ready to learn to drive again. That much power on these cars is very hard to use and control. I have a tough time maxing the potential of the car.
I would recommend a larger(less boost) pulley to start. Then you have the headroom to turn up the boost as needed. The step up from NA to a SOS S/C is huge, don't overshoot your load with a small(high boost) pulley.
Also get ready to learn to drive again. That much power on these cars is very hard to use and control. I have a tough time maxing the potential of the car.
#17
Moderator
#18
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
I have 3 SOS pulley's - feel free to hit me up if you want to dial in a specific boost setting.
I would recommend a larger(less boost) pulley to start. Then you have the headroom to turn up the boost as needed. The step up from NA to a SOS S/C is huge, don't overshoot your load with a small(high boost) pulley.
Also get ready to learn to drive again. That much power on these cars is very hard to use and control. I have a tough time maxing the potential of the car.
I would recommend a larger(less boost) pulley to start. Then you have the headroom to turn up the boost as needed. The step up from NA to a SOS S/C is huge, don't overshoot your load with a small(high boost) pulley.
Also get ready to learn to drive again. That much power on these cars is very hard to use and control. I have a tough time maxing the potential of the car.
I am looking to do this ONCE. I agree that after 15 years it will be a DIFFERENT CAR once done but that's the point. I am ok with only slightly dipping into the throttle and not going WOT for some time or possibly ever. I am not going to push the car that hard on the streets. Might Auto-x her to get a feel of it but Track time is probably not in my future for another year or so. We shall see. Brett might egg me into a track day.
#19
For what you are trying to achieve I wouldnt recommend the 3.2 pulley. But what do I know...
S/Cs take time to dial in, and those belts are not a set it and forget it mod.
I hope Brett talks you into a track day, let me know when you head up. May tag along and try to keep up
S/Cs take time to dial in, and those belts are not a set it and forget it mod.
I hope Brett talks you into a track day, let me know when you head up. May tag along and try to keep up