Pinky

So as it says I will be partaking on the journey to possibly 400HP. I won't be using it all but the kit came with a small pulley so I guess I need to suck it up and run with the extra HP.

So as I look to put this all together in stages I come to the point where I have to put the K-Pro in my car. So that means I need to put sprockets on for new sensors. This means pulling the crank pulley off along with the oil pain and front of the engine. So when I put it back on I mind as well put on the new pulley right? OK so that's 1.

Next is the exhaust sprocket. It's a reverse thread and a pain as it's on the firewall. Suggestion has been made to pull the cam out to assure it comes out smoothly. SO if I am going to pull the exhaust cam out I mind as well take the other one out too and upgrade the intake retainers to AP2's. UGHHH.

One thing just leads into another into another! Eventually I will upgrade the fuel pump too and put in a FPR. My question is now for those reading. If I get the FPR read the STOCK fuel pressure......install the upgraded fuel pump then bring the pressure back down to the OEM pressure level would that work and still run like stock?

Reason for all this is that I really want to do this in stages to make it easier for me to assure that what ever I do next if things don't run right they are very easy to diagnose! As well it also allows me to get the car up and running between projects and it makes a BIG JOB not so big and I can manage it in smaller chunks. I have a family, kid, house and work to juggle first before car.

RedCelica

oh yeah...im in for this thread

wadzii

if you use a ratchet with a swivel head you can very easily remove the cam trigger wheel with out pulling the cam.

Unless you reallllly want it, there is no real reason to change the fuel pressure regulator. for a single intake pump the stocker is fine. If you do change it just set the pressure close to stock.

haha, and you know how I feel about retainers.. if you are going to do all that work upgrade everything, IMHO stock valve springs are marginal at best

CoolGuy094

Let me tell you... I feel all of the pain and suffering that you are about to undergo over the next few months. If you need a shoulder to cry on (or someone to scream obscenities at) during the process, feel free to PM me. I've gone through all the same stuff you are about to go through over the past 2-3 years of my life, haha! But I ended up with 393 WHP and a big smile on my face every time I drive my car, and I guarantee all of the blood, sweat, and tears you are about to exert will be worth it in the end.

I know that you are doing Kpro so you can stay NC inspection compliant, and if I was at the start of the process and could do it all over again that's what I would do too... but if you want to save yourself some time/money/work upfront it really isn't THAT bad to revert back to a state that will pass NC inspection once a year. It takes me about 1.5 hours of work to get my car inspection-worthy, drive it for a day to clear all the checks, and 1.5 hours of work to get it back to kill-mode. I run the Haltech PnP ECU. I know there are other advantages/disadvantages to consider in that decision as well; just giving you my perspective.

But you are on the right path; if you're gonna be in there for the Kpro stuff, might as well do the retainer swap. I have an early AP1 (MY00) and when I was considering going Kpro I was also planning on doing the oil jet bolt upgrade while I had the oil pan off. Just something else to consider. IMO the stock AP2 retainers will be fine for your application/power level, but I'm not an engine builder like wadzii is. He's a lot more knowledgeable at that stuff than I'll ever be.

Depending on what fuel pump you install and what injectors you use, you may need an adjustable FPR. In my application, an adjustable FPR was definitely required. I run the Aeromotive 340 pump, ID1000 injectors, and an AEM adjustable FPR. Without the adjustable FPR my 340 pump was overpowering the stock FPR; the pump was pushing too much fuel and the stock FPR couldn't return the fuel fast enough and therefore my rail pressure rose to around 61 PSI (much higher than the 43 PSI stock). This played havoc with my tuner when he went to tune it, as fuel pressure would actually fall as RPM's increased. Anyway, once the AEM FPR was installed (I used the gold-colored largest orifice port that they supply with the kit) I was able to set the static fuel pressure back down to 43-45, and my fuel curves became normal again. My tuner said it was like tuning a whole different car. Everything ran smoother and he was able to successfully tune the car up to red line. My point of saying all this is that spending $150 or whatever on the AEM FPR up front would have saved me a lot of time and money wasted trying to track down the problem when it was first discovered. Even if your setup might be OK without it, you won't know until you're on the dyno and its not working right... so might just be better to get it.

As for your question, you should be able to install the new fuel pump and adjustable FPR, set the static fuel pressure at 43 PSI, and run just fine on your stock setup until you get everything else installed.

Good luck with everything man. Let me know if you need help along the way.

Pinky

Small small step forward. AP2 retainers for the intake side arrived today.

So at least I now have all the parts I need to do the K-Pro install. Not the biggest investment but a very necessary item for the move forward. I have essentially decided that I need to wait till fall/winter to do the install as I will be looking to send the oil pan, after cooler and test pipe out for welding. So while that is traveling to NH I will be down hard and can get my wiring/internals changed out.

LandR

Whats your hp goal?

Pinky

No goal......it will be what it is! It's a SOS Stage 2 with 3.2 wheel and thus around 16PSI. Stock long block(AP1), header, TP, and stock exhaust(UK MOD). I figure it will be around 400 at the top end. I likely will not use it ALL as even now I get up to the 8K or so mark then shift when really getting on it.

Everything at this point is at a stand still as any changes require my taking the car apart and shutting her down for a considerable amount of time as one thing leads to another and so on! Plus I want to have some extra finances in place to support the other accessories needed for the build.

Still left to buy: QRJ BOV, injectors, fuel pump, fuel regulator and gauge, boost & A/F sensors and display. Going to send out TP, Aftercooler, and oil pan likely for welding.

RedCelica

16psi?!

wadzii

I'd try a smaller wheel... we are seeing nearly 20psi on sam's car with the 3.2 pulley and that was only after alot of work to keep the belt in one piece.

Pinky

It's a kit that I bought and it came with a smaller than stock wheel on it already! What ever it is.....it is!(not changing sizes) 4.0 is the base pulley size.

SOS's site: http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produc..._1220_pulleys/
This shows the 3.2 Pulley pushing 16PSI on a NOVI 1200.