Attn: Alex!
Originally posted by Chazmo
Trent,
Wouldn't you rather restore a mid-'60s 6-cyl E-type for your friendly neighborhood Chazmo?!

Good luck, bud.
Trent,
Wouldn't you rather restore a mid-'60s 6-cyl E-type for your friendly neighborhood Chazmo?!


Good luck, bud.
Send the check and the car, and I'll get started.
You have no idea how difficult it will be to get a B18 to run on that golf kart. With as many sensors and parameters controlled by the ECU, it is a BITCH to get it right. Engines these days are run almost entirely by computer, with your air/fuel and ignition based upon dozens and dozens of parameters, taken from dozens and dozens of sensors. I hate to say this, but I think, if you guys really know what you're doing, your friend with the 305 will actually get it running, and you'll be left stranded. It is carbureted and with GM's HEI ignition, the only electrical connection you need is a single wire for battery voltage; the ICM and coil is integrated into the distributor cap. Of course there are your ground cables, starter cable, and battery cable, etc. but there is NO ECU.
Comparatively, the B18 is run by SEVERAL computers, and dozens of sensors. You can not simply drop in a B18. You need to retrofit a complete B18 drivetrain: engine, transaxle, ECU, CV joints, front suspension (control arms, hubs, axles), and so on.
But, if you must, I will help you out as much I can...
If only I were there with you, or you were here with me, we could drop a 700hp Chevy big block on a golf kart of your choice.
I'm not necessarily trying to discourage you; I just want to let you know exactly how complex this engine is, and thus how difficult it is to get it to run right.
Comparatively, the B18 is run by SEVERAL computers, and dozens of sensors. You can not simply drop in a B18. You need to retrofit a complete B18 drivetrain: engine, transaxle, ECU, CV joints, front suspension (control arms, hubs, axles), and so on.
But, if you must, I will help you out as much I can...
If only I were there with you, or you were here with me, we could drop a 700hp Chevy big block on a golf kart of your choice.

I'm not necessarily trying to discourage you; I just want to let you know exactly how complex this engine is, and thus how difficult it is to get it to run right.
Thanks for your help, the engine I plan on getting is a 1991 B18, so hopefully some of the sensors won't be there. I realize that this will be extensive and a pain, but a great learning experience also. What I predict...neither of us will be done by the time we said we would. He has no money, tools, and time. I've got a complicated engine and not a whole lot of experience in wiring cars up. So, we'll see how it goes. Would an early D16('85-'88) be any better?
'85-88 is CVCC, right? They're also carbureted, which makes it easier... BUT, they were great cars... for the owners. For the mechanic, they were a nightmare. If you've ever popped the hood on one, you'd see a big black box on the left-hand side of the firewall. It would look like black spaghetti, with about 25 vacuum lines coming out of that junction block. If you already have trouble with 2 vacuum lines, you do NOT want to mess with 25. You will NEVER get it to run right.
Do you have a pic? I may be thinking of the pre-'85 Hondas.
Do you have a pic? I may be thinking of the pre-'85 Hondas.
Alex-I don't have a pic, but the 85-88's aren't CVCC...maybe 85 is, but the 86-88's aren't. I had a 1983 Honda Accord for some time, and it was relatively simple, but replacing the carb on my friend's 1980 Honda Civic was a pain...that had a lot of vaccuum hoses.
BTW, I have the LPE/Weiand aluminum intake with LPE throttle body, and LPE headers. I was thinking about an ASA cam as well. What would you recommend for decent power (I just want about 500) but still very streetable and 15ish mpg? And don't say stroker kit.






