so at school i talked my way into swapping the rear cv joints and i feel for a first time with no clue of where to start i did a good job. feels smooth and brand new and only took 3 hours. that's with being first time blind and having to wait to use tools (we have to share). only bad thing is that i didn't realize the ABS wire was so restrictive and now i have a light on but i'll deal with that on monday in class. but now i know to take that off so as not to damage it. this is a huge difference so i'm telling anyone with the shakes to swap them. *cough cough* heather*cough cough cough*

 

haha! yea yea... I'm getting around to it.

theres a service bulletin on it that actually applies to my year/vin#, and although its waaaaay outta warranty, I might go down to honda and see if I can pull a few strings to get them to goodwill it. we'll see what comes of it, I'll probably cruise up there on sat and see what service advisors are there.

 

I think the service bulletin might still be honored, even if your out of warranty.

 

to the OP, did you make sure your axle nuts were torqued to 220 ft lbs?
That will stop the "clicks" if you have them.

Also, when you swapped the cv's, did you check inside the boots to make sure they were well greased? those things will rust quick if not.

 

heather i can do it (and won't break your ABS if the dealer won't). and i kind of put new grease in and kind of didn't. the driver side i put a little new in and left the old. the pass. side had evidence of water in the grease and since i did it without having much CV grease that's the one i cleaned and put the new stuff in. so now i have to pull them back off and repack them with the good redline stuff but now i know that i get water in my passenger side CV, which i will also be replacing. And to the click thing i also put CV grease inside the splines in the hub and yes i did torque them. i'm not a half twit hack like 90% of my class haha. but thanks for the reminder non the less. oh and be careful of where you guys take your cars for oil changes. to the ones that know people or do it themselves i'm sure you are fine but as some of you know i work at pep boys which i thought we were actually a decent shop (my location) today i watched someone pay about 90 dollars for a synthetic oil change and then watched a tech put the oil in his box and put in regular 5W30 which pissed me off. so i told the service writer who wrote him up to make me happy i guess, or to save his ass if i called corp. but i backed the car out and pulled it around and drained the crap oil he put in and did what the guy paid for. so on that note i am currently looking for a new job. anyone know of anything in the doylestown area let me know!!! thanks

 

Buy tools / not labor.

Good for you.

 

- wholeheartedly.

i was wrenching on cars long before i got my license and in the 15 years since then i've seen no shortage of ASE certified idiots. my all-time favorite:

1) Montgomeryville PepBoys for doing the worst clutch replacement ever on my first car, a RWD Nissan 200SX turbo. the mechanic installed the shifter 180 degrees out, resulting in 1st gear resting against the radio and 2nd being where neutral should have been. when i picked it up, i told them exactly what was wrong and was told by the mechanic that i didn't know what i was talking about. another mechanic there came over, took one look, and got out the tools and fixed it. the first one didn't even seem concerned and was like "whatever, it still shifted". even better was when the clutch pedal slowly got real soft and stopped disengaging the clutch about a month later. the fluid reservoir was real low and when i got under the car to investigate, it quickly became apparent that the guy had also forgotten to unbolt the clutch slave cylinder before trying to take the transmission out, kinking the hard line to the point of putting a hairline crack in it and allowing the fluid to slowly leak out. i fixed it myself to save me the aggravation of going back over there.

that was the first and last clutch job i paid someone else to do. as a matter of fact, that was pretty much the first and last anything that i took to a garage to have fixed, regardless of if i had ever undertaken the repair to be done before or not.

good tools + repair manuals + the internets = generally all you need for most repairs (plus some mechanical aptitude, of course)

 

Redline CV-2 grease is great stuff to repack the buckets with. One cartridge will do both buckets. I picked it up from summit racing but you could probably find it cheaper.

 

thanks. mine were about as bad as heathers now that i have switched them the car feels slower because i'm used to more of a rough ride. but it's VERY smooth now. i think when i take off and replace the boots i'll repack them with redline