Hey guys-

I know several of you are experienced in cryo treating, and the benefits it offers. I was wondering if it would be possible to cryo treat the entire OEM rear pumpkin (without having to open up and do each individual piece) and have it handle 400rwhp without exploding like the OEM does with stock power (failing end caps)?

I am going FI this spring (still on the fence as to which setup). (I am shooting for 400rwhp. I am already planning on getting an ACT disc/PP combo from HTG for the clutch.) How much strength would this cyro treating add? Would an AP2 rear pumpkin (with its slightly thicker caps) suffice if the AP1 cryo'd still would not work? Or do I absolutely need something like a Comptech or Puddymod pumpkin?

If a new pumpkin is needed, how much should I expect to pay to get the gears reset by a reputable shop (anyone know one? Tallahassee does not have crap)?

Thanks again guys!

John

 

There is someone selling a diff that was dismantled and cryod . wants 800 for it

 

Ill bump the thread to the top

 

PM jcarlton for cyro information.

He is selling one for 800. I will let you two guys hash it out.

 

Two options here;

1) Get with Jeff and get an $800 diff (can't beat the price!)
2) Get with Ben (S2KPUDDYDAD) - he does incredible work and if I am not mistaken, during his reinforcement of the diff, he has it cryode via Jeff.

Number 2 is my option come January since I will be bolting on the JR kit.

J

 

400 is no problem for a cryoed diff.

My process is patented and involves cycling through hot and cold extremes. Better that standard cryo-treating.

There is a lot of myth about the AP2 vs AP1 rears. First the caps are only significantly thicker on top. At the narrowest point, (which is going to be the weakest area), there isn't much difference. I just measured caps I have. The AP1 is about 10.42mm and the AP2 is 10.85. Not much there. Also, Todd at 2NRWERKS has a rearend that broke at the base of the housing. The bolt is still holding the two pieces together.

IMO it is the crappy casting that causes the problem. Not to mention people dropping the clutch at 7k. The cryo process is the only thing that helps this problem.

The reinforced rearend I have is totally cryoed, except for the aluminum housing. I even cryoed the stub axels. The reinforcement is the strongest stainless you can get. They add another 8.18mm worth of thinkness also and CNCed for excellent fit. They also have been cryoed along with the bolts that are tested to 190,000 psi and cryoed.

Let me know if you are going to want one. I am also going to build up a AP2 rear if you would rather have it. I WOULDN'T.

Sorry to take so long.

 

^ I will get up with you when the time comes for me to do my supporting mods (probably in a month or so). I will probably just want the cryo'd AP1 diff...

Thanks again!

John